Curious if folks have an opinion of what could be causing this (first pict)

discovered during turbo removal ...
just kept pulling parts out and struck oil!

background that may help:

• EGR was active during this sludge-fest
• it is more than 1/8" of sludge.
• the front of the engine (near the chain tensioner) is mostly dry (pict)
• the intake/exhaust manifolds were oily and wet
• the turbo housing was also oil covered
• the intake on the turbo had 1/2" of build-up in the 'valley' created by the compressed air outlet
• the wastegate was covered with sludge
• the turbo wastegate hose was very very loose on it's fitting into the turbo
• all turbo oil lines looked okay
• the valve cover gasket is a million years old and will be replaced
• the manifold bolts were quite loose (is there a torque spec? do they loosen over time? should they have threadlock?)
• there was also this nasty kink in the manifold gasket between E1 and I1. this will obviously get replaced
• the intake ports are horribly wet and sludgy ... as are the valves (from what i can see into them). Is there any way to clean them up?
• the exhaust ports are just 'sooty' and it doesn't really bother me.

Anyone have thoughts on the leak?
Any thoughts on cleaning it up (ports?)


Basically ... I want to eliminate all traces of this mess while i'm in here.
Thank you all!


Geoff

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'81 300SD ---> '46 IHC Metro (some day)

The first post of the following thread shows the method I used to clean up the manifold side of the engine using a plate to protect the ports during degreasing and pressure washing..

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/322334-engine-cleanup.html

My ports were not nearly that bad so I elected to leave them be, rather than risk getting a bunch of gunk into the engine.

I'd guess loose nuts on the manifold would be a significant contributor to the mess, but the EGR and the PCV probably contribute as well. You might want to consider a catch can too.

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I would be careful tightening the Manifold Nuts as the part of the Stud that goes into the Cylinder Head has only about 4 complete threads on it.

My Manifold Nuts were Copper. I never found a torque for the Manifold Nuts in any Manual but there is a torqe fot generic Cooper Manifold Nuts that have the same metric threads.
And, of course I forgot where on the internet I saw that; all I can remember is it was not a regular part seller but a Performanc Auto Part seller.
I also cannot remember if there is a direct shot at all of the Manifold Nuts that you could easily use a Torque Wrench.

If there was a lot of Oil in the Turbo charger Compressor side it could be the Turbo Seals are shot.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Watch the intake gasket with the engine running at about 2000 rpm and you will most likely see bubbles between the two halves of the intake gasket. I have changed intake gaskets several times and never could stop the 'bleeding' of oil in this area.

An oil separator keeps the oil mist from reaching the turbo and the bleeding stopped instantly...Robert

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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership

@diesel911: thanks for the info on the nuts... Chilton says 18-21 ft-lb for the 617 ... but nowhere mentions what type of nut is/should be used. in any case, this is a pretty low value. i'll be safe. also, should there be any type of thread-lock on it? to keep that low value from vibrating loose? i know that bolts/nuts lock together from thread deformation, and copper is soft, but i wonder if some lock will help it stay put.

@Doktor: can you explain a bit more?
#1: i only have one, shared, gasket ... are you saying turbo-air is leaking due to the extra turbo-pressure? and ...if the dynamic seals are shot in the turbo, then oily-air will be getting pushed through as 'bubbles'?
#2 I just can't visualize how/where the vapors are coming from to get in my turbo. My valve-cover vent current goes to my air filter and has it's own "catch can" there ... which drains back into the oil pan. I do not have the VCV vented to the turbo elbow.

on a semi-related note, i'm 1/10th of the way to cleaning up the engine. what a mess.

thanks all
geoff

__________________
'81 300SD ---> '46 IHC Metro (some day)

My Looked like they were the type that are self locking and had one end pinched in slightly.
Since the Nut holds down both intake and Exhaust I think it would get too hot for Loctite to be useful.

When I took my Maniflods off I put a precision straight edge acrossed them and fournd that the Exhaust Maniflold was a little warped.
I can't remember if the same was true for the Intake.

I reused the old Manifold Gasket by putting on several coats of Copper Coat Gasket Cement/Sealer.
The Glue parg of the Copper Coat will burn off but the Copper Particles mixed in the Glue will squash and help seal things.
I have had no obvious leaks; however, I have not gone looking for any leaks.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks Diesel911...
Sounds like the proverbial 'drunken thread' ... nice.

I've got extra copper coat seal from my egr delete kit ... so it sounds like a nice way to use it up ... better than some 5-year-old's arts and crafts!

oh ... and here are a few picts after a LOT of degreasing, wire-wheeling, and a hose-down ... i took my cover off the ports before the picts.

Now ... on to re-assembly with clean manifolds, new gaskets, a rebuilt chain tensioner, a rebuilt turbo, and a clean(er) block.

Thanks all!

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'81 300SD ---> '46 IHC Metro (some day)

Block looks a little rusty, good time to throw on some paint. maybe some POR-15. It`s nce to keep them all pretty looking.


Do you have that little brace/bracket from the bottom side of the turbo to the engine arm mount stud? It supports the weight of the turbo/manifolds.


I see you are a Cornbinder owner, I have a 67 B1500 1 1/2 ton, 345 V8 and 4-spd.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Hey Charlie ...
Yep... a bit rusty, but mostly from me degreasing for 6 hours today ... it had 1/8" of natural rust-protection (aka sludge).

and yes, i have that bracket ... it is attached to the exhaust manifold now ... so i remember how to get it all back together!


I bet your B1500 is a nice rig.
Mine is about as unique as it gets, too.
here is a link: https://picasaweb.google.com/108210556440376507686/1946IHCK1Metro?authuser=0&feat=directlink

It is a '46. First production after WWII
It has pre-war light bezels ...a roll-up door, and a whole host of other bits.
but it is a post-war model year ...a real hodge-podge.
even more-so once the 617 is in there instead of the Green Diamond

I plan on POR-15 (or equivalent) once the 617 is pulled and prepared for transplant into the Metro...
I also plan on getting to all the sludge hidden by the engine-bay firewall!

Thanks and cheers,
Geoff

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'81 300SD ---> '46 IHC Metro (some day)

The average automotive machine shop can resurface both manifolds for a perfect seal.

The ports require some effort to scrape clean, but it is worth it.

I agree on the possible oil sources.



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thanks...
i'm going to bring both manifolds to the local napa to get dip-tanked.
the first thing the guy said was to take it easy on the aluminum intake ...so he seems to know his business...
i'll also ask them to check for parallel and have them face off the two units (if necessary) for a nice seal once things go back in.

do they have a special process/jig to keep the two units as a system? i could imagine even a few thou difference in intake/exhaust would result in different clamping forces.

thanks!

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'81 300SD ---> '46 IHC Metro (some day)

It is not required.
If you will note the large gap between the manifolds.
This gap allows the stud/washer/nut to seal correctly despite what I consider Mercedes extreme +/- height variations.

I prefer a pair matched to 1/1000th of an inch, but fixturing and machining is money and time consuming.



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