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Negative INFINITY Camber: a new reason that causes this
I recently took my car to mr. mb motors in tarzana to have some work done on it. As it was on the hoist, I peek under the car and notice a crack in my left rear lca. it was like, 2" long. I showed it to the mechanic and he recommended I have it welded up or replaced as soon as possible. I figured I had lots of time to get this to a muffler shop and get it re-welded. Well, I was wrong. I arrived at the junkyard this morning for half price day sale, got out of my car, and noticed the wheel has crazy camber to it. I peek under the lca and that crack grew, in like 1,000 miles, to all the way across the lca--from the point where it's stamp welded together from the factory on one end, all the way under the depression where the spring and shock sit, to the other stamp weld on the other side. I google mapst my way to the nearest muffler shop, and as a temporary measure, got him to weld and reinforce the crack. It took him about half an hour of arc welding to get it patched up. You guys think it's safe to drive like this till the new LCA arrives?
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i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
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That depends on how good the welds are. If the welds are very good, the control arm might be stronger than it was when it left the factory (assuming it wasn't heat treated). If the welds are less good, then it won't last as long. I would keep driving on it, but inspect it very regularly.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
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On the W123s the Metal on the Rear Trailing Arm might not even be a full 1/16" thick.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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Oh wow. I wasn't aware. THis is clearly a major fail point after a while then. Unless you consider an LCA which lasts for 30 years a success. I guess I would. I just hate to have to pay my mech for this labor. Looks like a pain to remove this LCA. I would bet he wants two hours' worth of labor. I'm tempted to buy a pair of new rear shocks while I'm at it, but I don't feel like paying for 4 hours' worth of labor. I'd do it myself, but it looks harder to do than the one on my 190e. That one was cake compared to this. I'm going to take the advice and keep driving it for now. He welded it all the way, plus welded two rectangular spare peices of metal as braces. My big fear is that as I drive on the freeway one day, BOOM!
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i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6201/RQ1H6A.jpg |
#5
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I would change it as soon as possible. As mentioned above it is pretty thin and derives its strength from the shape rather than brute thickness. That is why it works so well and gives a nice ride.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#6
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I'd measure the lifetime of that fix in hours not days
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#7
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If you want to replace a trailing arm I'd most certainly remove the subframe to make it easier for yourself. It might sound like much more work but the fixings for the trailing arms are a bugger to reach.
There's loads of information in this thread (largely thanks to Charmalu and dieseldan) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/276507-rear-subframe-removal-bushing-replacement.html
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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In My case I hit a 3 Inch high Traffic Island and finished it off. I reaplaced it with a used Control Arm. I did drop unbolt the drivers side of the Sub Frame to get it out. I don't think you actually need to remove the whole Subframe. My Passanger Side also had 2 rust Holes. I Welded those over when I Welded the Rear Body Cross Member. However, I have another used Control Arm for that side. .
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#9
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Quote:
__________________
i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6201/RQ1H6A.jpg |
#10
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Quote:
__________________
i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6201/RQ1H6A.jpg |
#11
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I would have just pulled one from the yard you were in and swapped it while I was there... of course it requires some big wrenches to pull...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#12
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Quote:
User JamesDean has done loads of work on his trailing arms - worth a search
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#13
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Quote:
Pin-like bolt? Metal bracket? Are you talking about the bits on the sub frame here => I think even the FSM says to loosen the sub frame on one side (and perhaps the diff mount too?) - support it - and then tackle the trailing arm fixings. Removal of the whole sub frame is most certainly excessive if you look at what the book says... ...but it kind of doesn't say how you should be careful of older sub frame mounts. To lower the sub frame enough to get to the trailing arm fixings you need to drop it quite a way and you'll twist the sub frame mounts in doing so. This kind of "abuse" could finish them off. It might not; but then again trailing arms sren't expected to rust in the FSM are they? My advice is kind of doctored to suit an old car - and as I said previously it is way easier to fix the trailing arms in position with the sub frame removed.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#14
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Quote:
Since yours was badly cracked I would say it is ready to give out on you any minuite. When I welded up the cracked Crossmember on the Body. I welded up the crack and then I welded two 1/8" thick Plates over the Crack to spread the stress over a large area of the Plate.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#15
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Answer
Quote:
LEFT trailing arm is MB# 1263503205 $3053.50 each This is a common issue in Michigan. Welding is not safe or durable. I would replace it with a good used unit. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/220623-1985-300sd-rr-trailing-arm-rust-pictures.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/276377-rear-trailing-arm-broke.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/1933120-post2.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/119396-rust-battle-434-rear-control-arm.html ======================================== http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/111052-trailing-arm-bushing-w126-1985-300sd-diy.html PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Shocks & Springs http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/74439-sub-frame-trailing-arm-bushings.html#post467465 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/288805-w126-complete-rear-suspension-rebuild-diy.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/112850-rear-sub-frame-bushings-w126-1985-300sd-diy.html#post796976 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/266324-w123-wagon-rear-trailing-arm-bushings-r-r.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/111127-steering-squirrelly-w126.html#post778649 .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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