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View Poll Results: YES! or NO!
YES! Buy it. 9 50.00%
NO! NEVER! 9 50.00%
Voters: 18. You may not vote on this poll

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  #16  
Old 06-28-2014, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzasaurus View Post
I also want to say thank you to everyone for their input. If there's still more advice out there I'd love to hear it, but people's insights have been really helpful on this front!
price is always the deciding factor for me. i can't not buy a $500 car (non-domestic, generally) that i can drive home let alone put a little time into and drive it around for a while. if i could get it for 500 and it was a couple hrs away i'd be on it

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  #17  
Old 06-29-2014, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mythicalcheapwagon View Post
I have some rust between the jackpoints on my 1987 wagon, not a big deal to me. A few days back, the link in the SLS, the small pin, snapped from rust and raised the rear end to full height. Bouncy? A little. I crawled underneath and pulled the lever down and scooted out quickly. Lots of what is under my car has crust but its solid otherwise. I have restored Fiats and others with way worse rust that OP's proposed purchase. You can stop rust and welding panels, even at home has never been easier.

definitely. My fear for the OP is fittings like this though-



If she buys are car with SLS hydraulic components in this condition, and has to replace a lot of hydraulics by paying a shop to do it, that could break the bank.

However, could be worth it, everything just needs to be carefully inspected
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  #18  
Old 06-29-2014, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
If she buys are car with SLS hydraulic components in this condition, and has to replace a lot of hydraulics by paying a shop to do it, that could break the bank.

However, could be worth it, everything just needs to be carefully inspected

That is ugly and would run into some money and time. My wagon was stored in a garage for six years but the passenger side was really close to a wall. That side of the car rusted underneath, a neat line runs front to back, about 18 inches in. The undercoating made it look worse than it was and after peeling that back, only a few rust through's and the usual crust on the SLS is visible. I welded in 1/4 inch steel plate under the passenger foot well and then I welded in 1 x 2 box steel from front to back, just inside the jack points. Over kill but steel is cheap, I carry a floor jack rather than the stock jack, I can lift the car putting the jack on the 1x2.
After that SLS pin broke between the levers, I put the car on blocks and steam cleaned every inch of the bottom and found some pieces that need replacing. I can fabricate almost anything so I am not out any money, just time.
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  #19  
Old 06-29-2014, 04:20 PM
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Here's the Klokkerholm panels for the W123:

Results for Mercedes:W123 Chassis

MagicBus in Worcester has done a whole bunch of welding on his 240D with one of the $70 or $80 or $whatever it is now Harbor Freight welders, and it looks nice. He said that buying quality flux wire from Hobart really helped the welds look cleaner.
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  #20  
Old 06-29-2014, 06:47 PM
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You guys are the best! Thank you for all the replies.

I have new info. First off, I'm going to visit the car tomorrow night. We tried going today but had to turn back because of traffic.

Pros:
-original Blaupunkt stereo
-Euro, 100% Euro wagon
-one of those original basket roof racks that you see in old photos on top of all the roof rack stuff
-original paint?
-2nd owner, 26 years of records, original owner drove it 16k between 1983-1987 and garaged it the whole time
-2nd/current owners garaged it from 1987-2006,
-it's only now being replaced with a new car
-babied the whole time
-SLS replaced twice, shocks three times, new alternator... seems like they weren't afraid of big jobs
-"shifts fine"
-will come with various parts and paint

Cons:
-will not go over 40
-rust
-will take 5 hours to drive back not on highways... which is ironic given that I was talking about not looking forward to driving a FLA car on 95 back up to CT on another thread... now I don't even have the choice!
-god only knows what else

The not going over 40 thing is worrying. What do you reckon it could be?
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  #21  
Old 06-29-2014, 07:17 PM
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If the only problem was the exterior rust, I'd say go for it. You can find pick-n-pull fenders and have a qualified body shop install then repaint. That said, the fact the car will not go over 40 may indicate deeper issues, transmission, engine, IOWs, the EXPENSIVE stuff. Your time is worth something, how much time and $$$$ are you willing to invest into the car?

I once had a 300DT that ran like a bat out of he**. Every mechanic who ever worked on it or drove it said it was the most powerful 617 engine they had ever encountered. The car would break the tires loose during shifts 1-2 and 2-3.

As much as I loved the car, it had rust issues which were going to take a lot of time and money to repair. I sold the car but I still remember all the good times......
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  #22  
Old 06-29-2014, 08:17 PM
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Accelerator linkage adjusted wrong or possibly put together wrong is the most likely reason for not going over 40. Should be an easy fix. I'd also bring a change of fuel filters with me when I went to pick up the car in case it's that. If the car's been sitting a long time there's also the possibility of rodent nests clogging up the intake and/or exhaust.
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  #23  
Old 06-30-2014, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
Accelerator linkage adjusted wrong or possibly put together wrong is the most likely reason for not going over 40. Should be an easy fix. I'd also bring a change of fuel filters with me when I went to pick up the car in case it's that. If the car's been sitting a long time there's also the possibility of rodent nests clogging up the intake and/or exhaust.
Or algae in the tank. Whatever the reason, it should be an easy fix and should not be a deal breaker, especially at the price the car would be sold at.
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  #24  
Old 06-30-2014, 02:15 AM
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If you can get a euro wagon for scrap value, stop writing this thread and buy it.....there's two rust free wagons here in AZ, for 1500$....buy one of them and transfer the rusty wagon parts to it....
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  #25  
Old 06-30-2014, 08:21 AM
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Yep, buying it tonight. Hadn't really thought about getting a rust-free wagon and moving everything across. Think I spoke to the people you're talking about in AZ, a young couple. They seemed very nice on the phone but never got back to me with photos or further info. And then we researched the cost of getting it here.

Boyfriend remembered a guy he used to work with yesterday evening that had a 124 wagon . I remember him, before he moved away he ran the parts department of a restoration shop. Bf told me last night he now works as a broker, so we'll also reach out to him looking for a rust-free vehicle. He had a write-up on jalopnik about taking a 1958 Silver Cloud halfway across the country. He was a very good guy with a very nice wagon.

I'll take photos of this wagon tomorrow when I have sunlight.

Tonight I'll take fuel filters with me and check out the throttle linkage (we're talking the wiggler in the firewall, right?). And I do think it could be algae too but I'm not sure. I remember there being black dots around the fuel door in one of the photos but need to check again. I'm going to research biocide as well.
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1983 300TD 240k Thistle Green Auto (Euro) [sold]
1984 300D 240k Petrol Green Auto
——————————————————
"You know, times are changing. Ladies can do stuff now and you're going to have to learn how to deal with it."
"What? Were you saying something? Look, I don't speak Spanish."

Last edited by Benzasaurus; 06-30-2014 at 08:52 AM.
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  #26  
Old 06-30-2014, 09:26 PM
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There is a bunch of shipping sites, you can post an add on and get offers rolling in, I live literally in the middle of no where and my euro had all the glass busted out, 2 flats, not running....i got it shipped here from northern Cali for 550$ and it came in an enclosed trailer..
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  #27  
Old 07-01-2014, 02:02 AM
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BOUGHT

Well, we made the trip down to Long Island to get a look at the car. The traffic was bad getting there but nowhere near as bad as yesterday when we had to turn back.

Mr. Funola was super kind and offered to help me and the bf look at the car. Little did he know what he was getting into! We met him at 7.15 and did not say goodbye until at least 11.

The car wouldn't go over 40, sometimes wouldn't go over 25, in spite of a lot of maintenance. By the end of the night though, Mr. F got it back in shape and we drove it home on the Merritt Parkway at night. I owe him my eternal gratitude for all his help looking over the wagon and fixing it. We'd have been lost without him.

It was beautiful night out and we had no problems, even with no plates. Going to register it tomorrow.

I bought the car for a song in the end. But really, want I want to say in this post, very publicly is, Funola, YOU ARE THE BEST!

Pics and info to follow. I have 26 years of service records to organize.
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1983 300TD 240k Thistle Green Auto (Euro) [sold]
1984 300D 240k Petrol Green Auto
——————————————————
"You know, times are changing. Ladies can do stuff now and you're going to have to learn how to deal with it."
"What? Were you saying something? Look, I don't speak Spanish."
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  #28  
Old 07-01-2014, 02:23 AM
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Sweet can't wait for photos and the diagnosis of what the issue was!
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  #29  
Old 07-01-2014, 06:17 AM
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Funloa is good people. I met him a few years ago when I bought a set of light alloy wheels for my 240D from him.

Glad you got it. I didn't realize it was a euro.
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  #30  
Old 07-01-2014, 09:10 AM
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What was the remedy for the lack of acceleration?

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