Project Smokey Wagon 2014! - Mostly just noob questions inside. W123 1985 300TD - Page 17 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #**241** 01-07-2017, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarTowels

^ That's much more in line with how I do brake bleeds. Though I typically employ a helper to do the pumping; so I can open and close the valves in time with the pumps and speeds the process slightly.

No need to have a helper open and close with each pump, if done with the method I described above=easy

vwnate1 · #**242** 01-07-2017, 08:33 PM

Leaving the bleeder valves open might work, might also dribble brake fluid all over your wheels and stip whatever finish is left, off .

Better and safer to leave the brake pedal depressed overnight ~ this uncolvers the bypass port in the master cylinder and allows air bubbles to ever so slowly escape without any possibility of air getting in .

I use a bit of broom handle between the front seat and the brake pedal .

This isn't for total bleeding dig, it just helps get those last pesky bubble out for a rock hard brake pedal .

kerry · #**243** 01-07-2017, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarTowels

I've never heard of that method... wouldn't that let air and moisture into the lines?

Google gravity bleeding. some people say it can be done in 1/2hr. I suppose it depends on how much you crack open the bleeders.

WarTowels · #**244** 01-10-2017, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

No need to have a helper open and close with each pump, if done with the method I described above=easy

You must be some sort of flexible magician.

ROLLGUY · #**245** 01-10-2017, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarTowels

You must be some sort of flexible magician.

???? The only reason to ever open and close the bleeder is to not suck air in. With the end of the hose in brake fluid, it can't suck any air. I have a long enough hose on mine, that I can place the bottle in view while I am leaning over looking under the car (right side). The left side is easier, as it can be clearly seen from the driver position. You don't even need to sit in the seat, the brake pedal can be depressed with your hand while kneeling and looking under the car at the bottle......Rich

WarTowels · #**246** 01-10-2017, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

???? The only reason to ever open and close the bleeder is to not suck air in. With the end of the hose in brake fluid, it can't suck any air. I have a long enough hose on mine, that I can place the bottle in view while I am leaning over looking under the car (right side). The left side is easier, as it can be clearly seen from the driver position. You don't even need to sit in the seat, the brake pedal can be depressed with your hand while kneeling and looking under the car at the bottle......Rich

I found it quite awkward to try and view the bottle when doing the rear right (at night outside) and simultaneously pumping the pedal. Do-able; just awkward. Hands on the ground, one foot on the brake pedal, one for balance and with my body half in and out of the car, lol.

WarTowels · #**247** 01-10-2017, 04:20 PM

Not sure the brakes are quite right. I think I'm going to bleed all the calipers again.

I seem to have decent stopping power but pedal feels a bit weird and actually harder w/ less power than when it was running on 3 calipers. So that's odd...

ROLLGUY · #**248** 01-10-2017, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarTowels

I found it quite awkward to try and view the bottle when doing the rear right (at night outside) and simultaneously pumping the pedal. Do-able; just awkward. Hands on the ground, one foot on the brake pedal, one for balance and with my body half in and out of the car, lol.

Okay, I get it now (the part about being a flexible magician).

WarTowels · #**249** 04-09-2017, 01:52 PM

Two issues I'd love some feedback on-

1. Passenger door lock has stopped locking.
- Lock looks like it's trying to go down, but can't.
- Using the key, I can turn the lock but them i'm met with lots of resistance.
- If I turn the key and press down on the lock at the same time, I can get it to go down, while down the door is locked- but soon as I let go it pops back up to unlocked.

Comparing to the drivers side, I can't press the lock down on that one at all. It's like the passenger side has less pressure behind it, yet always wants to be in the unlocked position.

If anyone has a pointer of where to start with that one... I'm all ears!

2. Getting lots of "oil spray" on the turbo itself, on the cold side. Where the cold side enters the air manifold with that weird floating connection- that seems to be a potential source of it. But also just in general, seeing oil "mist" around the cold side of the turbo- no where else. I installed a catch can to prevent oil from being sucked into the turbo from the PVC- I've disconnected that temporarily so that all oil vapers are entering a bottle- so I can monitor if that fillls up with oil easier than the catch can.

Cheers!

Greg

ROLLGUY · #**250** 04-09-2017, 03:52 PM

Your resistance is the vacuum pod. The driver side has the vacuum switch that controls all six lock/unlock pods. If the driver side is unlocked, the pod on the passenger side (actually all three other doors) wants to unlock, and will have resistance. The oil you are seeing is from the turbo seals. Oil pressure is more than boost, so oil is getting past the seals and into the cold side.

WarTowels · #**251** 04-10-2017, 09:57 AM

Well, dang. I just rebuilt the turbo < 2,000 miles ago.

Ugh!

I took the door skin off and found this:

The visible part of the lock was fouling on part of the metal containing this metal piece because of the wicked bend on it. With this piece removed the door was unlocking and locking normally- although I could hear a noise coming from the side with this issue...

I bent back the piece of metal and reinstalled it- door still seemed to work.

Figured this would be it and I would get off easy =) But once I put the door skin back on and reinstalled everything- the door won't lock again via the drivers side - it seems like the drivers side requires no effort to lock or unlock and the passenger side requires more effort than the vac system can dish out.

I can now manually lock and unlock the door with the key which had previously not been working, but the vac locking/unlocking stilll seems broken. =(

vwnate1 · #**252** 04-30-2017, 08:24 PM

Greg ;

Are you not clear that the driver's side front door has no vacuum chamber ? . there for it cannot be judged against the other doors / trunk / wagon hatch.....

I have off and on issues with the passenger side door of both my '84 Wagon and '82 240D, the 240D's issue was the lock had been damaged by some DOP/DPM's heavy hands, I sourced a good used latch assy. complete from a 1977 W123, cleaned and lubricated it well before fitment Easier that you might think) and it's been fine ever since .

The same deal in the '84 Wagon, removed the cleaned the latch as the lock button rod you showed, didn't go up and down easily by the key .

Once cleaned it worked perfectly and easily for about two years, now the key part is stiff but the vacuum lock works fine .

BOTH cars had the exterior handle mis installed so the long rod from the key lock cylinder, wasn't inserted in the latch's 'butterfly' shaped aperture ~ remove the inner door panel and peer in with a flash light looking up to see if the rod is correct before doing anything else .

The devil is in the details here .

WarTowels · #**253** 06-08-2017, 07:24 PM

^ Thank you for the reminder. I forgot I couldn't compare the two and actually come away with any meaningful data.

i've got the door working again, so far so good.

A few weeks ago I had quite a fun issue- this car of course has been modified from the P/O and i've undone most of it, but one of the issues they left for me was they used the wrong bols on one of the turbo mounting brackets. It was loose and had such a small head on the bolt, I was afraid it would strip as it wouldn't budge in either direction.

As a result of this, the turbo vibrated more than it should have and i think they disconnected one of the turbo feed lines as a result. I speculate.

Anyway, never was an issue for me but i didn't like the extra vibration. So a few months ago I decided the bolt was coming out one way or another. Got lucky and out it came- in went a proper bolt and viola no more excess turbo vibrations.

Related or not, the turbo oil line developer a leak a few weeks after the bolt tightening.

i went to some lengths to clean and attempt to repair the tube. I made sure to test fit everything before i had it welded. I had bent it slightly to compensate some for the loss of length from where the fitting was removed and rewelded. Alas, once it was welded up and went to install- somehow it moved maybe but it no longer bolted up.

i tried dozens of times to massage the tube into share, various methods- I got it super close ones- you have to have the perfect angles in order to get the bolts threaded. But in the end, I couldnt get it working.

Instead, I have gone with an aftermarket route. Its 4AN hose with a matching T3/T4 flange, and correctly sized banjo bolt to 4AN in stainless. Hose is 53" long in case anyone is wondering. If i was doing it again I would use a slightly shorter hose, probably closer to 49-50" would get you there in the most ideal way.

but what i have is working so far, I've but maybe 250 miles on it so far.

I anchored this hose with FOUR P Clips. So it's hopefully going to last a long time.

still working on leak issues but as ever, the car is running and running great again.

Oh and I have some brake noise in the rear.... which is really frustrating. All new parts back there. Rear right- I suspect e brake pads are rubbing or something... one side only.

Will update with pictures!

WarTowels · #**254** 06-25-2017, 03:32 PM

Tried really hard to fix the OEM part... but ultimately gave up:

Replaced with with garret based fittings (correct fitting for turbo oil feed), SS oil line, and SS banjobolt fittings.

Came out nicely and it's anchored in four places so far so good!

WarTowels · #**255** 06-25-2017, 03:35 PM

Project Smokey Wagon is up for sale: https://maine.craigslist.org/cto/6192518466.html

I've had a great time with "VIN" as I call him, learned a lot and I think left him in much better condition than I found him which is a nice feeling.

I'll give anyone connected to the forum a discount as well if you send me your username!

Replacing VIN is a 1994 Suzuki Samurai as my next project/side car. Thanks to everyone who's provided me help and assistance over the years, I appreciate you all and this board! Thanks~

If anyone is interested in purchasing VIN, don't hesitate to get in touch-