No way to know for sure. It's working again like it did when I first got it, haven't had issues since. How long that will last... unsure.

It is indeed a simple mechanism and I still don't understand why or how it was stuck or what the shop actually did it get it open and get it back to normal. I easily spent over an hour working on it, so personally I wouldn't be too surprised if it did take them at least an hour. I tried every trick I could think of and had two helpers and we made zero progress ourselves.

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000

Temperatures have dropped from the 30's to the teens so I decided to test the Merc's ability to start. I was pretty confident it would and took a little video which maybe will help diagnose: http://youtu.be/DB4uXMsMbMM?t=1m19s

I've since topped off the battery with a trickle charger to full, reads 13.2 volts at rest. I also got out the multimeter and tested the voltage at the glow plugs (full voltage) and then I attempted to test the resistance in Ohms of the glow plugs by placing the positive lead to an engine ground and then the negative lead to the head/connector of the glow plugs.

I'm not totally sure I preformed the latter portion correctly as they are semi difficult to get the leads on. If I am not hitting the correct spot on the glow plug (for example if I touched the connector vs the plugs head)... then I'm not really testing the correct resistances... should I just take them out for testing?

Also- car has half a tankish left and I have not added any sort of anti gel to the diesel. Is it too late for that to have effect, can I add it now or does it need to warm up and be added with more fuel?

EDIT:

I revised my cold starting technique and just got it started =)

I gave it three very long glow plug cycles, then with gas at 50% cranked and cranked and cranked (maybe 30 seconds?) and it was obvious that it was spinning a bit better all the while. Well, eventually gave it WOT and she fired right up. Current temp is 11F. HUZZAH.

Still, any tips to get her to start easier? Alt is charging at 14.5 volts, battery seems to be good (will test how much voltage it loses over time though) and I will add some anti gel to the diesel fuel. Beyond that? (I need a valve adjustment because I have no idea when that was last done but... really going to try and wait until spring.)

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000

Got it started today at 4F. Took 3 tries and wasn't sure she would go... but she did! I'm pretty content with starting 0F and up. I think that's all I can really ask for.

I don't want to go about installing the freeze plug block heater, besides that - any recommendations? I've seen one that goes in your dip stick and another that you install into a coolant line and it heats the coolant up over 2+ hours.

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000

Wire brush the glow plug terminals. Resistance readings are difficult. Twist the connections into your meter and push down. I test from the positive terminal to the outside of the plug. No need to remove them. But unhook the power source obviously.

Floor the throttle 3 times before starting. Then wot while you crank.

Someone just posted an actual mercedes cold start procedure. For below 10 that was it I think. I'll look for it.

Excellent information, thanks!

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000

Fixing up more things here and there.

Just had the car in for an alignment.

Cleaned and polished the replacement TURBO DIESEL badge (although it's too cold to apply it right now).


I have no washer reservoir for whatever reason, so I scored this one online for $9+ shipping.

Mint condition:


Little degreasing later:


Going to have the windshield gasket replaced, but somehow I accidentally ordered the rear gasket so that now has to go back and a front gasket is on the way. So should go under the knife maybe late next week.

Otherwise just piddling around in her once in a while. I think my MPG has dropped, but not sure why. I did adjust my ALDA screw- I think I shall revert that.

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000

Well I am extremely frustrated. Seems like when I'm about to button up the most pressing issues on the car; more things fail.

Sunday I noticed the emblem was slightly crooked so I went to adjust it- with the lightest pressure possible- and it snaps right off.

Yesterday the blower motor died.

Today I move the car and there's a PUDDLE of oil on the ground.

I can barely fix one thing and two others break!



I really like the car, but I'm also starting to get irritated with the frequency in which things seem to break. I understand it's 30 years old and it's getting it's legs stretched for the first time in a while. But damn.

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000

So I've been working a bunch on the interior... since everything else WAS fine.

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000

Don't give up, it will be worth the effort in the end. I have had cars with things happening one right after the other, and other cars that just go every time without anything breaking for months at a time. Just stick with it, and eventually it will be a great car that will give you years of good service......Rich

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

What are you using to clean the carpet? Looks really good, great job.

Thanks to both, just feeling a bit frustrated was hoping to have a stretch with no repairs at this stage and the oil leak was not pleasant to find.

Rather anxious now to inspect. Fearing what I may find.

Carpets
TLDR: Purple Power.

Since the carpets were so heavily stained (primarily with oil) and their overall poor condition after a quick vacuum I went straight to soaking them for twenty minutes in a solution of Purple Power.

Using a fingernail style brush I gave them a good scrubbing. Rinsed and repeated. That alone made them 80% to where they are now. But the chemicals + soot wear + and father time left an end result that was somewhat blotchy and uneven in color.

I then gave them both a light coat with vinyl/fabric paint- brushing again in between each coat. While the color is not exactly correct the overall uniformity is much improved. And cost next to nothing and let me keep some original parts a bit longer.

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000

Went hunting for oil and I found some.

Little background:

Previously, no drips that I'm aware of. I never saw any on the driveway and when I was working on the car, sure, there was some caked oil here and there but nothing crazy. I recall thinking to myself how dry it was for a 30 year old vehicle. Not anymore!

Also, previous owner had the car in a garage and I believe he stated no drips in there either.

Car has essentially zero blow-by warm or cold. (Though I'm going to check that again now.)

What I found:

- A little oil on the cold side of the turbo entering the intake manifold
- A tiny bit of oil in the bottom of the air filter canister
- A covering of oil on the front passenger side above and around the oil pan gasket and also on the engine. Left side of engine only.
- Tiny bit of oil on the crank case vent tube by the oil cap, but that tube in general seemed oily.
- No real oil on the turbo inlet after taking off intake tubing, maybe a drops worth smeared around. Turbo has zero noticeable shaft play and spun freely.
- No oil in the coolant

I was unable to determine the origin of this mess, everything is pretty filthy now and there wasn't a clear area of "oh yeah- that seal failed" or anything like that. So I've cleaned up various areas as best I coild and added some more oil and checked the oil level.

Plan is to run a quick errand tomorrow (about 25 miles round trip) and then inspect it immediately upon return. Hopefully there will be clear evidence of where it's coming from.

Based on some quick research, it might be the oil return drain tube. Will require more inspection.

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000

Oil Leak

Haven't found anything super conclusive. After cleaning the oil off as much as I could, I'm seeing it drip now from hose on top of the valve cover gasket. There is a clear stream of oil leaking out of that hose. (Zero blow by pressure though? So why is oil going UP?)

I'm also seeing oil on the connection between the turbo and the air intake manifold. My turbo looks like it barely is fitting into the intake manifold. I'm not familiar with this setup at all, but it looks wrong to me. Like there is a huge gap and it's not sealing well. Why is there a metal to metal connection anyway? Can that gap be adjusted because it looks like an air leak? Also, yet more question... why would there be oil near the cold side of the turbo and the intake manifold?

Water Leak

Well, just spent some pretty coin for a windshield gasket to be installed. Was fairly sure based on water tests that was the route of the issue. However, that's not in question. Either the new gasket is not working or there is a leak elsewhere. A single water test revealed water still entering in the cabin on the passenger side. Didn't bother testing drive side yet since passenger side is still leaking.

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000

Oil Leak:

Well haven't lost any more oil from what I can tell over a few drives. But oil is leaking out of the crankcase vent tube. And I am seeing some oil around the turbo to intake manifold. Which again, seems like it has a large weird gap to it.

Water Leak:

Found a rather hidden HOLE in the car, by the battery tray again. After I cleaned it up, it's bit bigger than a quarter and a little taller. I had fixed a small issue nearby already, but this one was hidden to me upon first inspection.

I actually found it by working my way from the inside of the car out. I ripped out more sound deadening/firewall plastic and found the culprit for the passenger side leak. Once again fairly confident this is the main culprit.

I'm going to take the por-15 + fiberglass cloth route to repair it. I've already cleaned it up all the large rusty pieces and stripped away as much nearby paint as possible. Might take a rotary tool to it to clean it up a bit more. I'll start with patching it from the engine bay side first, applying a single layer of por-15 soaked glass and letting that cure. Then a second layer of the same. Then I will cover the entire area with 3M seam sealer. I'll be doing this outside so I'll fab up a little box and use a heatgun to get it up to temp.

Then from the inside of the car, I will fill the 'void' with glass mat soaked in por-15 and let that cure. Then I'll switch back to glass cloth again and get a nice smooth seal. Then that will get covered with 3M seam sealer.

Hopefully that will solve this issue for a good long time!

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Greg
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85' 300TD
03' Honda S2000