The manual says to pull off waterpump housing, and then seperat water pump from housing. It doesn't look that way. I can take water pump off with housing intact, unless there is some kinda voodoo I fail to see.

Where did I hear, "First kill all the Haynes?"

I could use some clarity. Pleas.e

I've done that job. I took the housing off because I wanted to change the housing to block gasket, but I don't think it has to be done that way.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.
99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.

I was removing the drive pulley and one of the allen bolts was rounded. Only one was torqued. And never really gave the waterpump r & r a good look until I met that rounded bolt. Not that I really know what I'm really supposed to be looking at.

Maybe I'll put the other bolts in and swap pumps.

Thanks for the response. Will replace that bypass line, though.

And bypass hose. Speaking of which if anybody needs a hunk you can have it cost of shipping USPS Priority.

Using any Haynes manual is asking for trouble!

Too Many instances of their "Instructions/Directions" needing to be second
and third party Verified before use!

Needless/Useless,complicating !

___________________________________________________________________

skippy's correct the only reason to R+R the housing is to replace the Housing Gasket.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

I'd recommend NOT removing the housing. ...Extra work and potential for dealing with a corroded bolt, etc.

If you are rebuilding a motor for the long haul though, and its out of the car, etc., it might be a nice thing to at least replace the old bolts which might be eaten away with corrosion from the aluminum.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

What year 300D? What chassis/engine?

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

No matter, I've pulled the water pump from all 300's and never have I needed to pull the housing, unless a bolt broke, or there was a leak on it.

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Same here, but quite often a bolt breaks and the housing needs to be removed anyway. I had a fixture made for drilling out the broken stubs. The fixture is made from an old water pump, and drill bushings welded in. The fixture is held on with 3 bolts. The washers hold the fixture above the stubs.
I plan on starting a new thread soon.

Attached Thumbnails

       

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

Yes,, Haynes should not be used alone... it has some good pictures sometimes ... but does not give the warnings which are in the Factory Shop Manuals..... very important warnings....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Unbolt the pump from the pump housing. Use a paper gasket, not RTV. Replace the bypass hose, clean or replace the air bleed tube as well (C-shaped little metal tube going from the housing to the block - they can get clogged).

Edit: Use only MB antifreeze or Zerex G05 antifreeze.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Thanks guys. Taking everyone's advice. There seems to be a full consensus here. On my 77 the pics in the manual are lacking.

Maybe will get back to it tomorrow. Do I need threadlocker on any bolts?

Vin 123 130 12 051427

Engine 617 016 0301

Nope. Just a small amount of anti-seize in case you have to take the bolts out X years down the road.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Thanks will do the anti-sneeze.

Just gotta replace a couple of housing bolts. Just anti seize on them too?

Yep. I would suggest blue locktight on the fan to pump bolts, though. Those bolts can be bought new if yours have the heads rounded.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Funny, fan bolts are good. Wern't on tight. I bought a cheap Craftsman Evolve wrench at K-mart and it fit the bolts with no trimming. Looks kinda lije a $snapon.