Today a friend of mine, Garret (Dieselkraut) some of you may know him, came over and we began working on the engine. The plan was to replace the rear main seal as well as the front crank and of course reinstall the upper oil pan. We didn't end up finishing the job that night but I will post progress pictures of what we did to the engine so far.




Removing the oil pump:


Removing the timing chain tensioner:



Removing the main bearings:



The plan was to lift the crankshaft up just a little bit, in order to get enough room to replace the rope seal. (Pretty much like you did in your thread ROLLGUY)



Although we ended up changing plans as the rope seal went in okay although it wasn't exactly perfect. The engine stand really got in the way and so Garrett decided it'd be best if we just removed the crankshaft entirely. We took the camshaft sprocket off in order to allow for enough slack in the timing chain so that we were able to remove the crankshaft.

Removing the crankshaft:



We decided to call it quits for the night after we removed the crankshaft. Upon close inspection, Garrett discovered some significantly worn main bearings. The rod bearings looked okay, although we both decided it would be best to meet up again soon and replace both the main and rod bearings and finish up the job. Garrett speculated that perhaps someone had removed the flywheel in the past and didn't mark it, as the wear patterns on the bearings were unusual.

That's all I've got, for now, thanks for reading.

Although you may get lucky, it is possible that you will need to re-time the injection pump. However, if the chain and sprocket were marked well, you could conceivably put it back together and get it timed correctly. The chain will not skip a tooth/teeth on the IP gear without removing the keeper/bolt (side of the block just above the IP oil hose connection).

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

We're going to just re-time everything once we get the bearings straightened out. Also figured it would be a good time to replace the injection pump gasket anyways. But yeah if we marked everything carefully it could have been possible.

Looking very good there .

Every injection pump I've checked, has been mis timed (retarded) so I got over my fear of doing it wrong and now have better running engines.....

This is a *very* good and highly informative thread .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Hoping to drop the engine and transmission in relatively soon, under two months or so..? I dropped the crankshaft flywheel and harmonic balancer off at the machine shop to make sure when we reassemble the engine it is totally balanced. I had marked the flywheel and balancer already but as previously mentioned, it seems like someone might have taken the flywheel off in the past and didn't mark it on account of the strangely worn main bearings. I've just ordered the main bearings + thrust washers and the connecting rod bearings and once those items come back from the machine shop, it should be time to reassemble.


Today I took it upon myself to go through the entire brake system. The front rotors were very worn so I ended up replacing them and also installed new pads and new front brake hoses. In the rear, the rotors seemed okay so I left them alone. I noticed the sway bar links were absolutely shot so I went ahead and replaced them. They were the originals believe it or not! 230k miles on them:



I also got around to cleaning the wheel wells today. They literally started off completely black, and somehow the beautiful paint was still pristine behind all 200k+ miles of road grime and filth.

Rear:




Front:

Very nice looking work!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

When they are shipped over they are usually coated with a carnauba (or some such) wax.

I have one that I am pretty sure has good wax in all the right places and I am careful to not remove it

Thanx for the update .

Originally the cares were coated with a heated, sprayed on liquid paraffin , that's why it looks so nuce under all that filth .

I've washed the accumulated munge off some of my old W123's, I love clean wheel wells .

I've been in Death Valley in my old Cope, have several days of E-mails to wade through, please keep us updated on this glorious car .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

They were coated with Cosmoline back in the day, that stuff was hard to get off then by now it’s gotta be really hard to remove. It’s all over my car.

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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior.

Cosmoline is very hardy stuff ~ I removed it from plenty of machinery and WWII surplus items, it's -not- what M-B used .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Not so interesting of an update but nonetheless:


I ended up getting the crankshaft and flywheel back from the machine shop and the crankshaft has been polished and is now ready to go. Also finally got the connecting rod bearings, main bearings, and thrust washers for when we reassemble the engine. We ended up having to get the connecting rod bearings from the dealer which was only $90 although they did have to import them from Germany which took a bit of time. The other bearings are Glyco and were about the same price.

A while back, Garrett had pointed out to me that my passenger side tail light had been painted when imported as to comply with the USA regulations. I decided to take the tail light out and see if I could remove the paint:





That turned out to be a time consuming task but after some work I was able to completely remove 100% of the paint and thus bringing it back to its original Euro state:






(Kinda OCD, I know)

Also decided to give the alternator a quick polish:






The voltage regulator was pretty shot and I ended up replacing it:





Rolled her out into the driveway to do some evaluating:



As of right now, all I need is a day with Garrett and we will put the engine back together. We finally have all of the parts and it's just a matter of weeks before the engine is squared away.

On a side note, there are a few things ideally I want to address before complete assembly of the car and that is:

Potentially resealing the PS pump as well as transmission

Having new oil cooler hoses made and fitted to the existing hardware

Also having new power steering hoses made and fitted to the old hardware

In regards to the transmission, I really have no idea where to begin and if someone wants to point me in the right direction please do. The other tasks seem simple enough.

That is all for now

I have a vintage boat and a couple old cars.I try and keep the original "life" of them intact. I think a little wear and tear here and there actually adds to a vehicle. Your car is just right.

Looking good ! .

FWIW, you can find new alternator brushes and solder them in, it's an easy job.

That looks like the original stamped sheet metal alternator pulley ~ if so you'd best scrap it A.S.A.P. before it fails without warning like one did to me in West By God Texas, a place you don't want to need a 35 year old foreign alternator on short notice .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Well I just finished up my college spring semester and now it is time to put some work into this car. Although at the moment I am stalled with this project, mechanically speaking, but while I wait I am going to detail the exterior of this 300d to absolute perfection.

I began prepping today, removing any exterior pieces that I could for as deep of a clean as possible. I think I removed every exterior piece other than the grille and window trim. Here are most of the before pictures:








The paint is really quite dirty, although on camera it appears pretty decent. In the coming week or so I'm going to completely go over the paint and remove any imperfections I can including the million swirl marks all over the vehicle that the camera has a hard time showing. In the end I'm looking for a showroom finish. I'm planning to spend 2-3 days straight on this process and I hope the after pictures reflect that amount of effort.


I picked up a dash mat, and some Cocomats to help preserve the interior:



Now all I need is some quality sheepskin covers for the front seats.

I'll be sure to update in the next week or so with the finished product.

Stay tuned..

Lot's of work, but hopefully it turns out like you want it!



Just in case this has been overlooked, Have Garrett inspect the end of the oil pump shaft. The oil pump shaft along with the helical shaft could be worn and possibly make the knocking noise later on. If there is any sign of wear and you don't want to touch the pump later down the road, get a new pump and helical shaft.

See pics of an oil pump shaft beginning to wear.





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Attached Thumbnails

   

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System