Re-packing front bearings - parts on hand - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diesel911 · #16 05-16-2018, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

I like the plastic bag method myself...

Guess I need to view some vids myself as I know nothing about the plastic bag method.

When I worked as a Mechanic everything I did except handling a hot exhaust pipes, welding and cleaning parts with solvent was done bare handed.

Now that I have neoprene gloves but I seldom use them because I have arthritic hands and it makes it harder to hang onto and manipulate small parts. You could wear the gloves and pack bearings.

In the plastic bag method if the bearing is inside of the bag that sounds good if you happen to drop the bearing as when it hits the ground it will not get full of crud.

Diesel911 · #17 05-16-2018, 06:38 PM

I think if you live somewhere where it rains enough that you frequently and you need to ford standing water that is higher then the sealing area it would be a good idea to change 10 year old seals.
That is not much of an issue out here where I live and in fact I believe we are still having a drought.

BillGrissom · #18 05-17-2018, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Perhaps I need to rephrase.
I merely wish to repackage the original 37 year old grease in my otherwise fine and functional 240D. ...

Or rephrase again. Above sounds like you plan to re-use the existing grease (some get carried away w/ keeping original). But, you did say you will buy new grease, which is wise.

Only M-B would have you weigh out the quantity of grease to use. I'm not seeing dealership mechanics following that. It is like my work in aerospace where everything must be precisely defined and measured. There is nothing different in the M-B front wheel bearings from any older U.S. RWD car. Indeed, they use the same common tapered roller bearings as some GM trucks (Timken SET3 and SET5, I recall). I do like the clamping nut, rather than the castle nut w/ cotter pin in my old Chryslers. I guess one needs that infinite adjustment if using the dial indicator to set play. In my 300D's, I just do it like my other cars, ignore the FSM, and no problems. I use "disk brake" grease (about all stores carry now) and ones w/ MbS2, i.e. "moly". As mentioned, the worst thing is to set too tight because it can then bind after it heats up. You'll know that when the wheel smokes.

vwnate1 · #19 05-17-2018, 01:18 AM

I'm going to retry the spindle nut method, I tried it last week and no joy....

I *do* use this method on most vehicles, every factory / dealer/ college /etc. training I ever took made a point of saying "DO NOT DO THIS ! YOU'LL DISTORT THE SEALS !" but I haven't ruined a grease seal yet....

Anyway, here are some pix of the two bad seals I found on new rotors in the junk yard, some kids were prolly doing 1/2 @$$ed works trying to make this rather nice 1982 240D sedan drive able before giving up and junking it, they bent the living crap out of both seals by hammering them out using a long screwdriver ~ I didn't count how many dents but at least 5 per seal :

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Just looking at the inner lip shows the damage :

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They also used WAAAYYYYY too much greae, packing the hub and cap so of course, it sprayed out all over the inside of the brandy new rotors and pads, wheels and every thing else .

I had the devil of a time cleaning it all up as there was older brake dust dating back to 1982 all over every thing that soaked up the grease....

I was thinking about this as I was cleaning up and making ready to re pack the bearings and have decided it's prolly wise for the DIY'er to just replace the seals, they're not very expen$ive and unless you drive them in by whacking them with a hammer and distort them, they'll be fine .

Cheap seals do indeed get hard over time, good ones (I try to use OEM parts) won't, it's a simple thing for a practiced Mechanic to test them .

I too am an older Journeyman Mechanic who prefers to do every thing by hand .

I bought one of those double disc threaded bearing packers and it's great ~ I always have at least two grease guns, one with short fiber bearing grease and t'other with chassis lube .

I have no idea where I put that darn bearing packer, you need to keep it in a plastic bag else the grase will attract dust whilst in storage .

RhodeIslandRed · #20 05-17-2018, 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Guess I need to view some vids myself as I know nothing about the plastic bag method...

...In the plastic bag method if the bearing is inside of the bag that sounds good if you happen to drop the bearing as when it hits the ground it will not get full of crud.

From the original poster's similar thread of 16 years ago!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billybob

Place the premeasured amount of grease in a large cheap/thin ziplock bag, and a thoroughly cleaned bearing, zip the bag shut, work the grease into the bearing from outside of the bag with your hands, remove newly greased bearing taking care to wipe excess grease off into the bag, reclose bag and using a straightedge or the edge of a table/bench work the remaining grease into a corner of the bag, snip a small piece of the bag corner off and squeeze the balance of the premeasured grease into the bearing cup! No lost grease, completely packed bearing and clean hands!

MCallahan · #21 05-17-2018, 08:18 AM

Any seals get hard over time. For $2, it's not worth the effort to save the old ones and risk scoring the spindle.

vwnate1 · #22 05-17-2018, 11:59 AM

My self, I'm not buying any cheapo $2 grease seals, no wonder you think they get stiff over time .

Zulfiqar · #23 05-18-2018, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

Or rephrase again. Above sounds like you plan to re-use the existing grease (some get carried away w/ keeping original). But, you did say you will buy new grease, which is wise.

Only M-B would have you weigh out the quantity of grease to use. I'm not seeing dealership mechanics following that. It is like my work in aerospace where everything must be precisely defined and measured. There is nothing different in the M-B front wheel bearings from any older U.S. RWD car. Indeed, they use the same common tapered roller bearings as some GM trucks (Timken SET3 and SET5, I recall). I do like the clamping nut, rather than the castle nut w/ cotter pin in my old Chryslers. I guess one needs that infinite adjustment if using the dial indicator to set play. In my 300D's, I just do it like my other cars, ignore the FSM, and no problems. I use "disk brake" grease (about all stores carry now) and ones w/ MbS2, i.e. "moly". As mentioned, the worst thing is to set too tight because it can then bind after it heats up. You'll know that when the wheel smokes.

when you are doing greasing regularly on such bearings, its pretty odd that you find that you put about 70 grams per wheel, because its the same size as a golf ball worth of grease. MB wrote such weight to address even the most novice of people.

Diesel911 · #24 05-18-2018, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RhodeIslandRed

From the original poster's similar thread of 16 years ago!

Thanks for the post.

Likely someone won't agree with this but after packing the bearing itself I generally pack as much grease as I can possibly get into the into the Hub. Slide the Hub over the Axle and push as much of the grease as came out back into the Hub if it will go in. I slide the outer bearing in and the clamp. And I also fill the Dust Cap. I am not recommending others do that but it is what I do.

vwnate1 · #25 05-19-2018, 12:24 AM

If you look into it you'll see the engineers who designed this stuff are very specific about _not_ doing this .

I see no harm in packing the grease cap but packing the hub's void isn't a good thing .

JHZR2 · #26 05-19-2018, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Thanks for the post.

Likely someone won't agree with this but after packing the bearing itself I generally pack as much grease as I can possibly get into the into the Hub. Slide the Hub over the Axle and push as much of the grease as came out back into the Hub if it will go in. I slide the outer bearing in and the clamp. And I also fill the Dust Cap. I am not recommending others do that but it is what I do.

Lol, wow that long ago. On my beautiful 83 that an uninsured idiot ruined. The method worked great.

Since then Ive procured a dial gauge, so measuring by mass and setting by FSM is straightforward.

Really my concern was if there were items that would definitely need replacement. I expect the grease to be pretty good, and the bearings just needing a soak/cleaning then repack. It will be set to OE spec, and less aged/oxidized grease.

Ive ordered the blue polymer Corteco seals that I believe are the same as in the MB kit. Napa Alstom range seems to have the same made in Japan (Koho Hi-Cap?) bearings.

It's simple enough to weigh grease. Ive seen w123 hubs oozing grease onto the wheel, even if not set wrong.

Clemson88 · #27 05-19-2018, 11:03 AM

Between replacing grease and seals in my 85 diesel conversion and checking the IP timing I believe I'm justified in buying another tool.

Considering that I am poor will you good folks please recommend a dial indicator which is accurate enough to perform these duties?

vwnate1 · #28 05-20-2018, 12:13 AM

Relax and take the time to research how to do this job correctly, no need for a dial indicator, it takes far longer to learn how to properly use a dial indicator .

Don't let the folks who don't under stand how simple a job this is, lead you astray .

ROLLGUY · #29 05-20-2018, 11:27 AM

My experience- I have done a Zillion wheel bearings just by feel, and never once had a failure. I don't own a dial indicator. I do have a dial indicator (of sort) on the end of my hand (actually five on each hand), and they work quite well. I am NOT saying that you shouldn't use a dial indicator, but that you CAN achieve the same results without it. Again, this is my experience, YMMV.

Diesel911 · #30 05-20-2018, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

If you look into it you'll see the engineers who designed this stuff are very specific about _not_ doing this .

I see no harm in packing the grease cap but packing the hub's void isn't a good thing .

I have been using the same method since the 1967. At that time because of Drum Brakes if you over packed the wheel hub with grease it was possible for the excess to leak past the seal and get down onto the braking area of the Drumb. I think I had that happen one time.

It was not a big issue simply cleanded and degreased (you did not have to pull off the hub again).
About the same issue as a leaking wheel cylinder.

On the mercedes if some grease leaked out of the seal it would be difficult for it to get onto the rotor as there is a space between the rotor and that dust shield.

This is a DIY forum. Can't expect everyone to follow the manual.

When adjusting the wheel bearing end play by hand did not work for me I went with the factory service manual method. As long as the way I apply grease inside of the hub works for me I will continue with that.