My new (to me) $1,500 '05 E320 CDI - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #1 02-11-2019, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

Wheels from a 2004-2009 W211 should all be interchangeable, AFAIK. You could always check the part number (and width/offset) stamped on the back side of the wheel. I'm assuming OE MB wheels, btw, not aftermarket.

The wheels in question are from an S class (not sure of the year). Yes I am aware that W211 wheels will work (actually 2003-newer), but I have not found too many 18" wheels from a W211. One guy has several sets from an S class, but he said I might need spacers or adapters for them to work on a W211. Others have said they should work as they are. I just need to know before driving a long distance to purchase a set......Rich

gsxr · #2 02-11-2019, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

The wheels in question are from an S class (not sure of the year). Yes I am aware that W211 wheels will work (actually 2003-newer), but I have not found too many 18" wheels from a W211. One guy has several sets from an S class, but he said I might need spacers or adapters for them to work on a W211. Others have said they should work as they are. I just need to know before driving a long distance to purchase a set......Rich

As noted above, you need to know the offset... AND also the width. The two go together, you cannot just get an offset number. If buying any S-class wheels for a W211, simply ask the seller to take a photo of the back of the wheel where the size/offset is stamped. Or at least have them tell you what the numbers are.

Never, ever, ever accept "...they fit fine on this year/model and my best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend hear from this guy who knows this kid who's going with the girl that said they'll work great on a W211."

Lance Allison · #3 02-11-2019, 11:50 PM

+1 what GSXR said.

spark3542 · #4 02-12-2019, 02:04 PM

Yes, it's all about the offset. The "ET" number stamped on the inside of the rim signifies how many mm the bolt surface is from the center of the wheel.

My bundts on my 83 had ET30, I found a set of wheels from newer C class that were ET41 that I wanted to put on. I purchased a 12mm spacer (close enough...they don't sell 11mm) and 12mm longer bolts, and it's worked great for 10 years now and 100k miles.

GregMN · #5 02-11-2019, 01:42 PM

You need to know the offset. If you cannot find the specs., then just lay a board across the inside of the wheel, and measure to the mounting surface on the set you have and the set you are looking to buy. If they are real close, it's good.

I used a set off of a W126 to mount snows for my W210. Same offset.

dearty84 · #6 02-12-2019, 11:07 PM

Nice score!

97 SL320 · #7 04-10-2019, 10:42 AM

A reconstructed title isn't always a bad thing if the car is actually good.

Do they have proof of the error / correction? Is the title currently in the sellers name? The VIN number determines what a car is so I doubt their story is true or the seller is just repeating what the previous owner told them. There is a mechanism for correcting title errors and I've never seen the title being branded after a correction. Most states should have titling rules on their web site, have a look there for rules.

Most titles have a number that determines how many times the car was titled in that state, see if you can track that down. Also look for a date that shows when the car was originally titled in your state and if it came from another state.

Always have a good mechanic look at the car, nothing beats an in person inspection. Car fax and the like are useless other than a semi accurate mileage trail and are really just a shake down of car lots. RE: If a lot doesn't pay $ 1,500 a month to subscribe , they are hiding something. ( This is the actual cost for a larger lot )

Many older cars get hit with a salvage / reconstructed title for minor damage. I had a customer whose 15 ish year old full size Pontiac got " totaled " by a run away shopping cart. It got hit in a rear quarter between the rear wheel and bumper. Thing is the car still would have passed state safety inspection.

Sometimes titles for older cars get lost / owner can't be located / car is abandoned. Many times getting a reconstructed title is the only way to get a title.

ROLLGUY · #8 01-12-2020, 07:03 PM

Yesterday I was working on my niece's CDI= http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/402801-black-death-has-reared-its-ugly-head-again.html
when my friend Jeremy (bought the $1,500 CDI from his father Dave= post #31 this thread) called and said his CDI lost power, went into limp mode, and was making a "loud hissing noise". I told him to find a way to remove the plastic engine covers and have a look. He limped the car to an auto parts store and bought a T30 to remove the covers. He texted me back a video of #2 injector spitting out Diesel vapor ( what are the chances that a friend's CDI has the same problem as one I was working on at that exact time?). He had the car towed home, and I went there this morning to inspect it and take a photo. Sure enough, #2 and possibly #3 have catastrophic injector seal failure. We are not talking the gradual release of compression gasses that create the "Black Death" over time, but a hole large enough that it sounds like the injector or glow plug was removed, and the engine started. If I could upload the video, I would. It is pretty impressive. Jeremy will order the parts, and we will fix it together......Rich

ROLLGUY · #9 01-26-2020, 09:53 PM

After a good cleaning (first photo), we got five of the injectors out. Seal for #2 was very bad (second photo). Number 1 does not want to come out. We replaced the other five injector seals, and put it all back together so the car could be driven. I told Jeremy to get the car warmed up good, and take it for a drive so the injector would come out easier with a hot engine. Jeremy and his friend were trying to get the injector to turn by prying it with a big screwdriver, and broke the head cover. The injector will still not come out, so he is going to make up a fixture with two bottle jacks and some steel plate (suggested method on here and youtube). A new cover is around $200, so we may try to have it repaired (welded). More photos on the way......Rich

ROLLGUY · #10 02-07-2020, 04:15 PM

More photos

ROLLGUY · #11 02-08-2020, 04:52 PM

Jeremy got the injector out using the two bottle jacks!

Actros617 · #12 02-08-2020, 10:37 PM

Bottle jack method is very effective and so much easier, it worked for me well, glad it work for ya!

ROLLGUY · #13 02-08-2020, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Actros617

Bottle jack method is very effective and so much easier, it worked for me well, glad it work for ya!

It was the only option we had left. #1 would not come out any other way. All the others came out very easily, even with my homemade puller (and slide hammer) made from a used injector clamp.

engatwork · #14 02-09-2020, 08:29 AM

Thanks. I typically don't watch video on the computer because the service is so slow. It is a long way to town.

If you were going to be doing this job weekly you could drill plate and use all thread (and a couple nuts) with the socket welded to end of it.

The first time I pulled an injector on one of these using a puller made in China I took a chunk of al out of the valve cover. The made in China puller needed to be modified that I picked up on after the fact.

ROLLGUY · #15 02-09-2020, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

Thanks. I typically don't watch video on the computer because the service is so slow. It is a long way to town.

If you were going to be doing this job weekly you could drill plate and use all thread (and a couple nuts) with the socket welded to end of it.

The first time I pulled an injector on one of these using a puller made in China I took a chunk of al out of the valve cover. The made in China puller needed to be modified that I picked up on after the fact.

Jeremy had to grind the sides of the puller he ordered, for it to fit into the cavity of the head cover.

"you could drill plate and use all thread (and a couple nuts) with the socket welded to end of it."
Yes that seems like an easier way to do it, and with less equipment. I could see gluing magnets in the end of the extensions to hold the metal plate. With several holes in the plate, the threaded rod could be used for two or more injectors before being moved.