New set of nonresistor plugs NGK. Ignition wires are not resistor wires they measure 1K ohm.WUR is operating as it should. About 15° advance. All cylinders are firing. What affect does the vacuum have on the control pressure when it idles? Still no change starts and idles. Only about 600 rpm. After about 30 seconds rpm decreases then it quits. The wur is set at 22 psi. Maybe that is not low enough? Maybe another 5 psi lower...17psi.

The connection to manifold to sense Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) is to provide enrichment with increasing manifold pressure under load. As manifold pressure increases, control pressure decreases. If there is a leak to atmosphere in that line, or in the pressure chamber of the WUR, the mixture will be driven in the rich direction (particularly at idle).

Re: Control pressure at 20deg C.

Last three digits of Bosch # on WUR:
010 and 057 - 1.0-1.5 bar
103 - 1.0-1.4bar

If you have determined that the engine is stalling due to leanness, use the low end of the range. And contrariwise for richness.

compression results
#1 165
#2 175
#3 160
#4 170
#5 165
#6 175

also discovered by visual inspection that the rubber Y vacuum fitting on the vacuum connection on the top of the intake manifold was bad. this branched to the drivers side and ran in behind the dashboard. Branched to the passenger side running in behind the dashboard and up to the cruise control actuator canistor. Will be picking up new rubber Y this evening.

Was getting ready to check if replacing the rubber "Y" vacuum fitting located on the top of the intake manifold behind the fuel distributor would allow car to cold idle. Decided to recheck vacuum connections and discovered the axillary air valve hose between the valve and the idle adjust housing, the one with the vacuum nipple molded into the hose was split at the vacuum connection. This also had to be leaking air into the intake manifold. Will pick up new hose by the end of the week.

put new auxiliary air valve hose on. The car starts, gives a slightly higher rpm but drops quickly to slow idle. Idles much longer 2 minutes and slowly stalls. I tried some ether around intake gasket....didn't idle up. Tried some ether through opening in air flap pointed towards auxiliary air valve intake, very little ether right before stall...didn't idle up. Played with throttle valve and the motor wanted to stall. Measured vacuum at port on top of manifold behind FD, measured 7". Measured vacuum at distributor retard hose and measured 0".* Good news motor idles a bit longer and allows some diagnostic testing while idling.*

The vacuum port on the top of the intake manifold splits and sends a vacuum line to the right and left side. The vacuum line running to the left side (drivers side) doesn't hold vacuum. This line branches off to two vacuum lines running in to the back of the dashboard. I disconnected and plugged that branch. Would like to know what these two lines do?

I was thinking these lines would be contributing to the low vacuum measured earlier at 7" at this very same port. But these losses would compound the already low vacuum because when I tested I removed these lines and connected the vacuum gauge.

Most of the 3.5 mm rubber tube was replaced with 4mm some years ago. Alot of it fits loosely. I have replaced most of it. Need to replace section at warm up regulator. Need to increase vacuum from 7" to something higher.

All vacuum hose replaced. Brake booster blocked. When the car started it did high idle briefly and measured close to 15" of vacuum. After it quickly went to slow idle vacuum went with it.
Have now bypassed the warm up regulator and have a needle valve and pressure gauge installed. It allows adjustment from 2 - 70 psi. I have statically checked the timing and have it set at 7° advance.

I have not tried to start it, but will post testing results soon.

Installed needle valve and bypassed the wur. It allowed adjustment of fuel control pressure. When the fuel control pressure was dropped from 20psi to 9 psi there was no affect.
I stripped the wur bypass needle valve off the car and running with wur and 12 volts supplied to it. Vacuum removed from distributor vacuum retard. Turned mixture screw 1-1/2 turns cw. At this adjustment when the air vane is at rest some amount of fuel is being dispensed. How much i dont know but can hear that the injectors are open. Remember my air vane at rest switch is not working it allows 12 volts from start run buss to operate fuel pump. Fuel pump comes on in run position. Started and high idled longer than normal and idled, slow idled for quite awhile. 5-10 minutes.pressing on air vane...a very little(1/16" or less) ...seemed like it wanted to idle higher. Idle adjust didnt seem to help idle. Coolant temp went to 140 degrees. Eventually stalled. Intake vacuum was higher... 10 inches when slow idling.
Timing is at 15 degrees advance.

Pulled #1 plug and it was dry. Looked good actually.

Hot start not good.
The csv is manual control but I did give it a pulse but didnt seem to help to get it to restart.

Pulled #1 plug does look wetter.
The fd is currently at 2 turns cw for the next start up.
Interestingly enough the air vane switch now works?

well it appears the fuel mixture was too rich. After setting the fuel mixture right where the injectors will start to dispense gas if the air plate is touched the mixture screw was turned ccw about a 1/2 turn. The motor now starts and idles nice. If the plugs are checked there is no build up on them.
Need to top off the coolant reservoir and connect the distributor vacuum advance. Things are looking up. Thanks for the support from all.

, at this stage of the game…I do not know where the mixture setting was when I got the car. Originally the motor always fired and attempted to idle but quickly stalled out( 5 seconds?) probably plug fouling. I stayed away from the mixture adjustment because of the bad vibes from reading threads on line. Eventually I had no choice but to start playing with it especially after completely rebuilding the air vane housing, rebuilding the wur, fpr, along with the fuel distributor itself. Things were getting better…..the motor would start and idle for minutes before plug fouling stalled the motor. Lots of vacuum leaks were fixed along with the coil wire to the distributor cap. Eventually started playing with the mixture screw and discovered the injector no flow point (injectors do not dispense gas when the air vane is at rest position) was learned. From the no flow point the mixture was always being en-richened because it was thought that the stalling was caused by lack of gas. But any enrichment beyond the injector no flow point (injectors do not spray gas when the air vane is at rest position) fouls the spark plugs. Motor starts and eventually plug fouling causes it to stall. Last night after pulling plugs several times and hand cleaning them I finally came to the realization that not only was there a black carbon soot on the plug but that they started to appear wet to me especially after stalling and trying a restart. Remember this is the first car that I ever bought not running….never had to use plug inspection to get a car running. So I decided to lean the mixture from the injector no flow point (injectors do not spray gas when the air vane is at rest position) and was surprised that the motor started as easily and idled for a longer period of time 10 minutes…15 minutes ….still running car in garage so I eventually would shut the motor off. Motor was starting to come up to temperature. I also still need to top off the coolant reservoir from the auxiliary air valve removal exercise. When I removed the plugs after leaning the mixture I realized that if the mixture is correct at idle that the plugs will have no discernible residue on them when removed.

Tonight will top off reservoir. Connect distributor vacuum advance. Place the bolts that connect the wur regulator to the block. Push it out of the garage and let it come up to full temperature. Still need to confirm that the throttle can be opened….have not done that yet.

The CSV only made an improvement within a small window of time after the motor fired…….. seconds after starting and idling (5-15 seconds) probably before the plugs start to foul. After this period of time the idle would deteriorate and start to go in to its stall mode after this the CSV didn’t have an effect. It didn’t seem that I would be able to keep the motor running indefinitely using the csv.

Remember I have not driven the car yet….all I am saying is that the car now idles for a long enough time to warm the engine up…allow engine diagnosing while idling….and not foul out the plugs. It may idle indefinitely I will determine this after I get it out of the garage.

I may still have battles to fight….
until I fool with it again I feel that the throttle cannot be opened without stalling? I am hoping connecting the vacuum to the distributor advance might help?

It still doesn’t seem that the air bypass idle adjustment has a big enough affect….

I have made some improvement….I at least know the mixture screw lean/rich transition area of the mixture setting.

well it appears the fuel mixture was too rich. After setting the fuel mixture right where the injectors will start to dispense gas if the air plate is touched the mixture screw was turned ccw about a 1/2 turn. The motor now starts and idles nice. If the plugs are checked there is no build up on them.
Need to top off the coolant reservoir and connect the distributor vacuum advance. Things are looking up.

at this stage of the game…I do not know where the mixture setting was when I got the car. Originally the motor always fired and attempted to idle but quickly stalled out( 5 seconds?) probably plug fouling. I stayed away from the mixture adjustment because of the bad vibes from reading threads on line. Eventually I had no choice but to start playing with it especially after completely rebuilding the air vane housing, rebuilding the wur, fpr, along with the fuel distributor itself. Things were getting better…..the motor would start and idle for minutes before plug fouling stalled the motor. Lots of vacuum leaks were fixed along with the coil wire to the distributor cap. Eventually started playing with the mixture screw and discovered the injector no flow point (injectors do not dispense gas when the air vane is at rest position) was learned. From the no flow point the mixture was always being en-richened because it was thought that the stalling was caused by lack of gas. But any enrichment beyond the injector no flow point (injectors do not spray gas when the air vane is at rest position) fouls the spark plugs. Motor starts and eventually plug fouling causes it to stall. Last night after pulling plugs several times and hand cleaning them I finally came to the realization that not only was there a black carbon soot on the plug but that they started to appear wet to me especially after stalling and trying a restart. Remember this is the first car that I ever bought not running….never had to use plug inspection to get a car running. So I decided to lean the mixture from the injector no flow point (injectors do not spray gas when the air vane is at rest position) and was surprised that the motor started as easily and idled for a longer period of time 10 minutes…15 minutes ….still running car in garage so I eventually would shut the motor off. Motor was starting to come up to temperature. I also still need to top off the coolant reservoir from the auxiliary air valve removal exercise. When I removed the plugs after leaning the mixture I realized that if the mixture is correct at idle that the plugs will have no discernible residue on them when removed.

Tonight will top off reservoir. Connect distributor vacuum advance. Place the bolts that connect the wur regulator to the block. Push it out of the garage and let it come up to full temperature. Still need to confirm that the throttle can be opened….have not done that yet.

The CSV only made an improvement within a small window of time after the motor fired…….. seconds after starting and idling (5-15 seconds) probably before the plugs start to foul. After this period of time the idle would deteriorate and start to go in to its stall mode after this the CSV didn’t have an effect. It didn’t seem that I would be able to keep the motor running indefinitely using the csv.

Remember I have not driven the car yet….all I am saying is that the car now idles for a long enough time to warm the engine up…allow engine diagnosing while idling….and not foul out the plugs. It may idle indefinitely I will determine this after I get it out of the garage.

I may still have battles to fight….
until I fool with it again I feel that the throttle cannot be opened without stalling? I am hoping connecting the vacuum to the distributor advance might help?

It still doesn’t seem that the air bypass idle adjustment has a big enough affect….

I have made some improvement….I at least know the mixture screw lean/rich transition area of the mixture setting.