Banjo bolt question - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Elktonjohn · #16 11-27-2005, 10:57 PM

That sounds so sad...what a horrible thing!!

KDHBenz · #17 11-28-2005, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elktonjohn

...at 267K I'm thinking any damage the EGR has done is already done and is it worth pulling it now? Or is it a thing where you try it and see if it improves performance vs keeping the car working with the original parts and hoping for the best...and minimal further intake crusting...

The EGR does not improve performance AT ALL and only serves to put more crud into the intake manifold. Put a plate between the EGR and its gasket, a ball bearing in its control line, or just remove all the vacuum nonsense that exists for the EGR only. Or do like me and do all three incrementally over time as you learn just what the !@#$% is really going on.
(If I'd only known about this forum a year or so ago...oh the money and headaches I could've saved...

)

Check out this thread:
EGR elimination, 617 engine

And yes, it is a very sad thing...I finished mine off yesterday and, well...I slept like a baby last night...

Elktonjohn · #18 11-28-2005, 01:54 AM

I was going to debate the utility of the 1 lb ball peen hammer but now will consider un-plugging vacuum line and capping said line and putting down the hammer. Now I just have to figure out where the EGR actually is. I am having a lot of fun just winging all my repairs so far...don't tell me where the EGR is, I'll find it. Really, going from a 69 el Camino to a 72 Camaro to a 75 Lesabre to a 87 Caprice to a 94 Lesabre to a 96 Century to a friggin old Mercedes is a trip...I Love it! but if I show up tomorrow with an EGR question gimme a break ok? When I find it, it's outta here

KDHBenz · #19 11-28-2005, 02:14 AM

BTW... What let me back to the EGR and the associated vacuum mess atop the valve cover in the first place was a vacuum leak that manifested in the car shutting down sluggishly as well as poor shift quality. Once I eliminated that leg from the vacuum system and the inherent leak, my vacuum is back up, the IP shutoff valve shuts off the car as it should, and the transmission vacuum modulator is allowing the tranny to shift normally again.

This, however, admittedly all occurred long after I had already needlessly spent $35 for a new 3/2 valve vacuum switch (and was getting ready to spend another $35 to replace the other one) as well as $26 for a thermo-vacuum valve...

Oh well, live & learn...

Here's the thread:
Vacuum Pump Rebuild (?)

Elktonjohn · #20 11-28-2005, 03:14 AM

Actually I am really glad you brought that up as I'm having some occasional trouble relating to my vacuum system...I attributed it to the cold weather all of a sudden here in Virginia... but shutdown has been an issue lately and I have only owned the car since early October and ALL is new to me on this, my first diesel. I've also got oil in my ignition switch which is another thing entirely but the tranny, before I cleaned the intake banjo- line to overboost- line to ALDA and adjusted out the ALDA, the trans was getting low pre-boost power from the motor and was shifting hard...ok. Now with the new life in the motor I find the trans is really sloppy, especially 2nd into 3rd and I don't get that. Being from a gas powered backround vacuum is/was pretty simple and I'd figure it was throttle lingeage or a bad modulator but as I learn....diesel vacuum comes from a dedicated vacuum pump, which changes things a bit at least for me. The door locks are also vacuum powered are'nt they? They work in a wierd way for sure but they do work even after the car is shut down for a while...which is really a strange thing if I'm right about that...( took me a long time to figure out how to open the trunk ) need to read some more....again ...jeez I'm saying that all the time these days! Anyway, it's sounding like eliminating the EGR and plugging it's vacuum source can't hurt and might help a bit to boot. Done deal. Is there an easy way to check if the vacuum pump is working properly??...I know a vacuum gauge would be a good start but have not had the time yet and there are other priorities b4 I get there...I still need to replace the trans fluid and filter, rear gear lube, motor mounts but NOT the trans mount as the driveshaft has a weak U joint and I don't want to start wearing it in a new place...Garsh!! What else?? the list goes on but I gotta say, I've got $920 in this car so far, it has never been messed with as far as I can see, it runs pretty strong, purrs down the road and is a real treat to wrench on...and where was I?? Oh yeah vacuum. Man, I have like 5,000 questions, I'm just glad there is stuff here to read and learn and people who like to answer the dumbest stuff...so where is that EGR anyway...no don't tell me, I'm keen to guess.

KDHBenz · #21 11-28-2005, 04:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elktonjohn

...shutdown has been an issue lately and I have only owned the car since early October...

I had the same problem. Barring anything wrong with the vacuum shutoff valve on the IP, you're likely to find a vacuum leak to be the cause of your troubles there, or I suppose a weak pump...read on...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elktonjohn

...Is there an easy way to check if the vacuum pump is working properly??...I know a vacuum gauge would be a good start...

I read recently in another thread where MB should've issued a Mity-Vac along with the first aid kit, which I think is not far from the truth...

For starters, check here for a good vacuum check-up procedure and go from there...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elktonjohn

...I've also got oil in my ignition switch which is another thing entirely...

If you've got oil in your ignition switch, you've likely got oil in your vacuum lines, since it is vacuum control of the IP shutoff valve by way of the ignition switch that shuts the engine down. It is not "another thing entirely", but likely symptomatic of the SAME problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elktonjohn

...before I cleaned the intake banjo- line to overboost- line to ALDA and adjusted out the ALDA, the trans was getting low pre-boost power from the motor and was shifting hard...ok. Now with the new life in the motor I find the trans is really sloppy, especially 2nd into 3rd and I don't get that...

When vacuum was once again tight, I found my transmission shifting a little soft for me as well where it had been shifting hard before, having been hindered by a vacuum leak that resulted in a non-functioning vacuum modulator. I had to adjust the modulator slightly as well as the throttle pressure cable (aka bowden cable) to get the shift quality and timing (respectively) as I like it. You may have the slide type throttle pressure adjustment on an '83...I'm not sure. In any event, adjustments for shift timng & quality are VERY easy to do...check here for instructions.

Anyway, have fun. Be sure and let us know when you find that EGR...

iceman3876 · #22 11-28-2005, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elktonjohn

I was going to debate the utility of the 1 lb ball peen hammer but now will consider un-plugging vacuum line and capping said line and putting down the hammer. Now I just have to figure out where the EGR actually is. I am having a lot of fun just winging all my repairs so far...don't tell me where the EGR is, I'll find it. Really, going from a 69 el Camino to a 72 Camaro to a 75 Lesabre to a 87 Caprice to a 94 Lesabre to a 96 Century to a friggin old Mercedes is a trip...I Love it! but if I show up tomorrow with an EGR question gimme a break ok? When I find it, it's outta here

you are going to have a blast with this forum...I cant wait to work on the next project...this is becoming a sickness...

I change Oil plus filter every 1500 miles
Purge every 1000 miles
Change fuel filters every 1500 miles
Change air filter every 1500 mile

and on and on....These are some of the smartest guys out there...and if you really get in a slump..sling a request to bonehead..he has about 13000 posts and is very knowledgeable

Smoke on!

boneheaddoctor · #23 11-28-2005, 08:38 AM

If you are going to play with a boost controller PARTICULARLY an external bleed type boost controller...you will likely send it over 20 psi before ou get it right...

Besides the Stock wastegate is not that hard to adjust....if you are mechanicly inclined....there is a procedure in the sticky for doing this....In the spring when my W116 sees the road again I will remove the bleed type boost controller and adjsut the wastegate on it as I did my W123. I'd bw willing to sell it to anyone who wants it then (the boost controller)

KDHBenz · #24 11-28-2005, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

If you are going to play with a boost controller PARTICULARLY an external bleed type boost controller...you will likely send it over 20 psi before ou get it right...

Can't you set the controller to the low end and then bring it up ever so slowly...?

KDHBenz · #25 11-28-2005, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman3876

I change Oil plus filter every 1500 miles, Purge every 1000 miles, Change fuel filters every 1500 miles, Change air filter every 1500 mile and on and on.... These are some of the smartest guys out there...and if you really get in a slump..sling a request to bonehead..he has about 13000 posts and is very knowledgeable...

Gettin' a little crazy with oil & filter changes aren't ya'? I thought I changed them often! As for this forum and the likes of bonehead, you are absolutely right...INCREDIBLE...I only wish I'd known of them MUCH sooner!

vwnate1 · #26 11-28-2005, 10:30 AM

I see a 16 oz. BallPien hammer beng mentioned : DO NOT do this !

if the SMOG Nazis ever peek under your hood the ticket they'l write you is terrible ! .

This was a common repair back in the early 1970's , especially on GM products , I wel recall one Chevy dealer where the AQMD Nazis showed up and looked in the back lot ~ every single car there had dimpled EGR valves and these hand't even been through PDI yet ~ a $10,000.00 PRE CAR fine was levied , this in 1972 or so....

Sometimes tiny ball berings or short studs somehow get stuck in the EGR vaccum line , this has the desired effect and is dificult to find / diagnose...

YMMV

boneheaddoctor · #27 11-28-2005, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KDHBenz

Can't you set the controller to the low end and then bring it up ever so slowly...?

low end is almost all the way out....it takes very little preload to send the boost pressure soaring. A boost guage is mandatory when doing that....adn I am not exagerating in any way.

boneheaddoctor · #28 11-28-2005, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KDHBenz

Gettin' a little crazy with oil & filter changes aren't ya'? I thought I changed them often! As for this forum and the likes of bonehead, you are absolutely right...INCREDIBLE...I only wish I'd known of them MUCH sooner!

I would not change filters at 1,500 miles...I do mine every 3K along with the oil. Yeah with oil analysis and synthetics you can stretch that more...I don't however. I've rather put $25 in fresh oil in it than pay $25 for an analysis to find out how long I can run it...(yeah analysis will tell you far more than just that however) Doing diesel purge? I like to do it once a year..in the fall...any more is costly......even once a year is overkill but does no harm...I do the prefilters when you see enough debris in them...that will vary a great deal in milage and time....and I like to do the Canister filter every fall...unless a sudden power loss happens then its time to do it then....I've never had it happen however. I keep one spare canister filter and two prefilters in my glove box at all times...

KDHBenz · #29 11-28-2005, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

low end is almost all the way out....it takes very little preload to send the boost pressure soaring. A boost guage is mandatory when doing that....adn I am not exagerating in any way.

Thanks BoneHead!

Perhaps I will just suck it up, burn my knuckles a bit, and do the damn wastegate adjustment (KKK) in lieu of a boost controller; the whole while being thankful I suppose (from what I've heard & read herein) that I don't have to do it on the Garrett...

And naturally, I will NOT be messing with the turbo without closely monitoring a boost gauge...

boneheaddoctor · #30 11-28-2005, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KDHBenz

Thanks BoneHead!

Perhaps I will just suck it up, burn my knuckles a bit, and do the damn wastegate adjustment (KKK) in lieu of a boost controller; the whole while being thankful I suppose (from what I've heard & read herein) that I don't have to do it on the Garrett...

And naturally, I will NOT be messing with the turbo without closely monitoring a boost gauge...

Its a bigger deal with the older W116 Turbo-diesels with no oil seperator...that boost bleed sprays the engine bay with oil over a period of time...thats why I will get rid of it.

Never did a KKK adjustment but its easier than the Garret I understand. And that was not all that difficult to do.( the Garrett)..IMHO...