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  #31  
Old 10-18-2006, 02:21 PM
firemediceric's Avatar
1981 300 SD
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 351
Thank you

JimZ,
I think you just saved me the cost of a new tumbler/cylinder as well as a lot more frustration.

My key does seem to work fine with the the tumbler out of the car. I went out to the car, turned the wheel to engage the steering wheel lock and then tried the trusty screwdriver that serves as my temporary key. I had a hard time turning the screwdriver to start the car.

The thought of the problem being more than the tumbler seemed daunting. I then remembered one of the many posts I had printed out. I will cut and paste it at the bottom of this.

The poster related how he stuffed some paper in a gap at the back of the mechanisim to keep the dead bolt lock from actuating. He no longer has a locking steering wheel, but he did not need to replace anything and he overcame the problem.

I have now stopped the locking mechanisim from engaging in the same manner as the original poster of this method. I will test this over the next couple of days. If it works trouble free, I will leave the obstruction in place to bypass the lock mechanisim and reinstall my current tumbler.

Here's the post from 2002:190E ignition switch...

Gil
Registered Offender Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: NH
Posts: 202


JUST did this!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey, I feel for you! I just came outside from fixing my ignition switch.

It locked up on me a few days ago outside of Blockbuster videos. Key would not turn, so I had it towed to a nearby shop, where they said the only option was to drill it out and replace the cylinder, and the expensive part that contains the steering wheel lock, etc. This job would run about $700 at the MB stealer, and the shop where I was wanted about $400(+/-) to do the job.

Quickly, I jumped into a nearby phone booth and changed into the superhero known as Cheap Bastard, who slayed the bill with his miserly habits. Cheap Bastard requested that they drill out the lock, but go no further. After doing this, Cheap Bastard reasoned, the car could be started with a screwdriver until funds could be found to do the job correctly.

I drove away for $95 bucks as Cheap Bastard waved and rode off into the sunset.



Now, I could have stopped there, but instead I ordered a new cylinder and key for about $38, and a new black sleeve thingy (bezel?) that screws over the lock. I saved the original chrome trim ring.

When I got home today, I found the parts on the doorstep and started the installation process, only to find that the real problem was (and likely is in your car) the dead bolt lock in the expensive part (I forget what it's called). It seems even with a new cylinder installed, the key wouldn't unlock the dead bolt and I had to take it out, moving the dead bolt away with a screw driver (it takes some practice, so be a little patient with yourself).

To keep the dead bolt from causing me any more grief, I wadded up a little bit of paper and shoved it in the gap, holding the deadbolt latch permanently in the open position. I then installed the cylinder. Using a "paper clip in the pinhole" as described in other posts, I held down the little latch on the side of the cylinder while screwing down the black bezel thingy over the keyhole.

So now i have a working key (it dsoesn't match, Cheap Bastard bought the universal one versus paying $95 for a custom ordered matching lock.)

True, my steering wheel no longer locks, but since when has that ever been a theft deterrent in the first place?

For about $150 (including the tow), a few hours of my time and some liberally applied foul language, I took care of this and you can too.

:p


Gil

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Gil : 12-16-2002 at 06:26 PM.
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  #32  
Old 10-18-2006, 03:04 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Wilmington, NC
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I love this place. Can you imagine owning one of these old Benz without it?
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  #33  
Old 10-18-2006, 03:09 PM
winmutt's Avatar
85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atl Gawga
Posts: 9,329
I changed the ign assembly in whole on my euro. It was fairly easy. More so than getting the tumbler out the first time.
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  #34  
Old 10-18-2006, 03:14 PM
Running on pure optimism.
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 222
no sweat...

Glad I could help!

There is one preventative step you may want to take. I'm not sure how long the balled up piece of paper will last, so just to be sure, do this: turn the steering wheel a little before you turn the car off and take your keys out. The lock may not work with the paper in there, but if the paper fails, the lock won't work with the steering wheel turned. This is what I do. And like I said before, MB mechanics advise against this, and I'm sure they would advise against the the balled up paper method. It is best to just fix it, because if it locks up for good, you've read enough by now to know it is VERY expensive to fix. Right now I have a list of more immediate problems to attend to, so for now I'll keep my fingers crossed and remember to turn the wheel before I turn the car off!
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  #35  
Old 10-18-2006, 03:41 PM
firemediceric's Avatar
1981 300 SD
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 351
As I run my test, I have a piece of hard plastic that I trimmed to fit stuffed into the hole to prevent the mechanism from functioning. We'll see how it works. I think it's a better choice than paper.

I want to fix, or have fixed, everything that's wrong on the car, and I want it done correctly. It seems that each day the list gets longer. Any money that I can save on this that will not affect the functioning or appearance of the car is money I can spend on another item needing attention.
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  #36  
Old 10-29-2006, 11:21 AM
firemediceric's Avatar
1981 300 SD
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 351
Time to move on to another repair

It's been a week and a half with the plastic keeping the steering lock from engaging. The original ignition cylinder has been back in place and functions flawlessly.

The help I received here along with a lot of serching and reading in the archieves saved me a lot of headache and money.

Now that there is no more problem with the ignition it's time to move on to another repair.

Thanks again
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  #37  
Old 10-30-2006, 07:07 AM
MS Fowler's Avatar
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Location: Littlestown PA ( 6 miles south of Gettysburg)
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Is there any way to remove the lock surround w/o a key? My '82 300SD does not have the surround, I want to know if there is a way to get one from a wrecked car in the junkyard.
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  #38  
Old 10-30-2006, 09:20 AM
Running on pure optimism.
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 222
Know any car thiefs?

If there is a way to get it off without a key, I hope it's really hard to do! Otherwise, car thiefs would have a pretty easy time getting the car started up without a key.

You can get a brand new one from Phil for $30. Pretty cheap, and you don't have to find one in a junkyard and try to get it out.
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  #39  
Old 10-30-2006, 09:23 AM
firemediceric's Avatar
1981 300 SD
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 351
Sorry, but there is no way that I know of. You need the key to rotate the cylinder to the proper postion to insert the paper clip and depress the pawl that will then allow the collar to spin off.

Wow, who would have thought that I would have enough MB knowledge to answer a question rather than always just be asking?

Sorry it's not an answer that helps you
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  #40  
Old 10-30-2006, 04:03 PM
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Answer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by MS Fowler View Post
Is there any way to remove the lock surround w/o a key? My '82 300SD does not have the surround, I want to know if there is a way to get one from a wrecked car in the junkyard.
The FastLane online cataloge has it in:
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PART NUMBER SEARCH RESULTS WITH PRICES
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Part: Ignition Lock Cover

Last edited by whunter; 06-29-2009 at 02:10 AM.
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  #41  
Old 10-31-2006, 08:50 AM
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Location: Wilmington, NC
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Wonder if he's actually looking for this?

If so, you certainly don't need a key to remove it.

Called an escutcheon and Phil has them in stock.
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Last edited by whunter; 07-03-2007 at 11:50 PM.
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  #42  
Old 04-27-2007, 01:37 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 45
Man am I glad to have found this thread. I have been reading for hours. I read all the threads about the U shaped wire but can see only one hole in the wife's '89 560sel ignition switch. Figured I just needed a flashlight or something. I am at the jiggle to remove stage. I confess I knew better than to let it go this long. I am confidant I have one more turn of the key left. I jiggled for about 20 minutes this morning before work, asked the Mrs to jiggle every now and then. Sorry no pics. Gonna try the jigsaw vibration next. Very interesting about the column lock defeat. I think my situation will call for a new lock as the key is difficult to insert and remove.
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  #43  
Old 07-03-2007, 11:51 PM
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Picture

of the whole assembly area.
Attached Thumbnails
Ignition Switch problem 1981 300 SD.-w126.120_steering_lock_6484484848454.jpg  
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  #44  
Old 01-29-2012, 08:53 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firemediceric View Post

To the point. Despite reading, over the last three days, EVERY one of the posts on this problem that I can find, I have not been able to remove the tumbler assembly. Some of the posts are contradictory, but that is attributable to different years and models. I have printed out the ones that I felt were most applicable. I have a ream of paper beside me in the car as I refer to different threads to try and solve the problem.

I am talking about a 1981 300 SD. 126 body style. My ignition has only one hole in which to stick a wire.

Some posts have said to put the key at the second postion. I feel this must be wrong, as the wire can barely be inserted at that spot.

Most posts have suggested having the key at the first postion. When I do this I am able to insert the wire about 1", not the 3" that some of the posts call for. I'm not sure if this is the right postion, as even a few degrees left or right of the first postion still allows the wire to be inserted. In fact, I can have the wire inserted about 1" and still turn the key a couple of degrees in either direction.

Some posts call for using the wire to apply pressure while pulling straight out on the key. Some call for the black collar to be unscrewed CCW while applying pressure with the wire. I'm not sure which task it is I should really be struggling to accomplish, so I have tried both, to no avail.

I have used different thicknesses of wire (all with bevels on to end) and I have toiled with them over several hours to the point that I have a blister on my thumb from exerting pressure on the wire.

Perhaps I am being over cautious in even undertaking this task, as the key has only bound up on me once and I was able to turn it again after a little jiggling and persistance. Since then I have only had to use the key a few times to start the car. I currently have the car parked with the key in the first postion, as I figured that if I put this repair off it will be a lot harder and costly at a much more inconveinent time.
I have tried to remove the tumbler from a switch I have as a spare, with the same results. I have both a tumbler unit out of the body so I can see where the wire tool (I am using an alen wrench) goes in, and can see the bar moving in that would allow the collar to turn.

However, when I try it on the complete switch, I can't get the collar to turn. I can tell I have it in the right spot because the tool goes in just a little further than even 2 degrees of rotation either way. I also can't turn the key with it like this.


I also have an '81 300SD that the ignition switch is stuck just between the position that the key is inserted, and the first position (ign on). The car is drivable (steering unlocked) by jumping the starter. However, there is no brake lights or glow system. I know I need to at least get it in the no. 1 position to remove the tumbler, but I wanted to practice first with the parts I have to make sure I can do it when I get the switch in the car in the right place. I am at my wits end! I have viewed all the photos on Diesel Giant, but still can't get it to work.. HELP PLEASE!!
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  #45  
Old 01-30-2012, 01:26 AM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I have tried to remove the tumbler from a switch I have as a spare, with the same results. I have both a tumbler unit out of the body so I can see where the wire tool (I am using an alen wrench) goes in, and can see the bar moving in that would allow the collar to turn.

However, when I try it on the complete switch, I can't get the collar to turn. I can tell I have it in the right spot because the tool goes in just a little further than even 2 degrees of rotation either way. I also can't turn the key with it like this.


I also have an '81 300SD that the ignition switch is stuck just between the position that the key is inserted, and the first position (ign on). The car is drivable (steering unlocked) by jumping the starter. However, there is no brake lights or glow system. I know I need to at least get it in the no. 1 position to remove the tumbler, but I wanted to practice first with the parts I have to make sure I can do it when I get the switch in the car in the right place. I am at my wits end! I have viewed all the photos on Diesel Giant, but still can't get it to work.. HELP PLEASE!!
What year and model is the first lock from?

.
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