then the inevitable questions on that ensue if true. Where purchase and what tools needed to remove?

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I am not a post whore, I am a car enthusiast.
86 190D 420k and counting

I am retired now but I was a machinist forever. You can fix the threads with the proper size tap if they are not too badly damaged. It is not too difficult but you must be careful to start the tap straight. Once started, turn the tap in maybe half a turn then turn it out half a turn. Continue turning a little farther each time till the tap will turn all the way into the hole. Be careful as you work the tap in, if it seems too hard to turn back it out a little then go back in. Try to keep what ever you use to turn the tap as steady and straight as possible. A socket and extension might work well for that. Taps are very hard and therefore brittle, if you bend it it will break! If you coat the tap with a thin coat of grease it will help collect some of the metal shavings. You may try coating the inside of the pre chamber with light grease to trap any shavings but you will likely have to remove the pre chamber to clean it once finished with the thread repair. If your father was a machinist I am sure you will have no problem as long as the hole is not too badly damaged.

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Darrell

1984 300SD "Ole Girl"
207K

Ditto on bbboomer's notes. Take it slow, only half turns for each cut. But add to that to use cutting oil and clean the shavings out occassionally.

Since you know some machinists see if a case or two of beer would get you a magnetic mounted tap holder to hold the tap square to the hole. If you can't rig up magnets properly then just a plate that bolts into the other glow plug holes could work.

I missed the fact that you have a 601. You can pull the prechamber in the worst case........no need to remove the head.

If it was in fact that we where talking about any 615/6/7 engine
you would be looking at about a $5 replacement of the prechamber's pin style locking ring. This ring's internal threading is what the injector nozzle holder actually threads into. Good Luck!

ok cool, so I guess I will look into sourcing a prechamber just in case.

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I am not a post whore, I am a car enthusiast.
86 190D 420k and counting

Is it only the locking ring that has the threads for the injector? Doesn't the prechamber have a threads at the top.......as well?

I don't have one in front of me at the moment and only have a 615/6/7 manual at hand right now. The locking ring internal threads are definately used by the nozzle holder's external M 24X2 threading, the prechamber's internal threading is M22X1. The precamber's internal threading is used by either a slide hammer type tool with an appropriate adapter or a screw press type tool specifically made to pull 61X prechambers. As I mentioned, I don't have a prechamber in front of me and the illustrations are not the most detailed but I'm pretty certain that is the configuration. I would also add that I can't see how it could be designed that the internal threading of the locking ring could be syncronised with any threading internal to the prechamber as the rotational alignment of the locking ring is independent and will vary under various torque conditions, this would prevent any possibility that the nozzle holder's external threads could engage any deeper than the lock rings threads.

Early 601/3 nozzle holders using the pin type prechamber locking ring have a similar arrangement although I'm not certain of the prechamber internal thread specs for these, could be the same M22X1 or they may be M22X1.5 the other end of the slide hammer adapter.

Later 603.97 and 602 engines using the splined type prechamber locking rings particularly those with inclined injection have nozzle holders with external thread M22X1 and the thread is located closer to the holder's tip and when installed the threading is actually further down into the prechamber's body. Good Luck!

Thanks......that makes perfect sense. For some reason, I was thinking the prechamber held the threads for the injector nozzle, but, as you noted, that's impossible for the 617 and early 603/602 engines.

I misled you in the earlier posts because I must have been asleep.

If you get into any issues with the threads, you should only require a new locking ring provided the engine still has the straight injectors and they thread at the very top (into the locking ring).

I just so happen to have a 601 head, well my friend does...

I a guessing that it is the Volvo that is having the problem. On mine the Cylinder Head and the threads are Aluminum.

If the Mechanic cross threaded the head it is his job to fix it. If he messes up the fix it is his job to get another cylinder head and replace it.

If the origional Injector went in wrong how will the VW Injector with slots go in straight?

The tap might be a better choice due to the tapered starting end and because it cuts threads ounce it is in the hole you can put pressure to one side (don't do this on a small skinny tap) to get it to go where you want it to go (straight) and you can look throught the Tap Flutes (grooves and see where you are cutting) on a big Tap like a 24mm.

Enco also sells decent Taps and Machinist supplies. Some of the Dies/Taps I got from them came from East Europe and a big drill bit came from Sought Africa of all places.

This is a reminder to everyone to screw things in by hand (to make sure they are lined up) as far as you can get them before putting a wrench on them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If it is a Mercedes changing the locking ring as the other member suggested is the best solution but only if the tool to remove/tighten is available or can be made.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

okay super cool!
anybody want to loan me the tool? i can/will pay for it. then all i have to do is source the part which is proving difficult on my phone presently should of brought my laptop with me.

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I am not a post whore, I am a car enthusiast.
86 190D 420k and counting

Item 27 in the tool rental program.........BillyBob will help you out.