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  #31  
Old 09-19-2011, 01:24 PM
ngarover's Avatar
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Location: Northern Georgia
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Well, I've called 2 shops, one being the dealer themselves and am waiting on call backs as to what the cost of putting a new timing chain on is. I'll share when I hear more.

Shop one, will not even do the job, as they don't have the tools either... they even said they can't get the chain itself (error). That was These guys...
http://bavarian-auto.com/joomla1/

And they are suppose to me mercedes specialists....

Still waiting on word from the dealer.

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  #32  
Old 09-19-2011, 01:39 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Location: Eastern TN
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What I know about 617 chains:

It's good practice to check chain stretch or elongation or whatever else it's called during valve adjustments. Keep track of changes over time. Either the spec or rule of thumb is (or my poor memory says) to replace the chain at 5* of stretch at the crank which is 10* at the cam. That seems risky. If you're going to change synthetic oil good for 15K miles every 5K miles, replace the chain at, say, 2.5* of stretch at the crank.

If you don't know the history of the car, pull the cam sprocket to see if there's an offset key in place accommodating a worn chain. Factor the offset into your measurements. I don't know if offset keys are marked as to the offset since there are two or three offset steps available. The painful way to measure is to replace the offset key with a standard key and measure.

There is talk of IWIS being the preferred chain brand. There should be "IWIS" stamped on the links. I don't know if every link has the stamp or a few. It won't be just one link. Not having the IWIS mark is probably reason enough to replace the chain.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #33  
Old 09-19-2011, 01:40 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
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If it's a keeper, consider Metric Motors as Charlie did.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #34  
Old 09-19-2011, 02:13 PM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
...
There is talk of IWIS being the preferred chain brand. There should be "IWIS" stamped on the links. I don't know if every link has the stamp or a few. It won't be just one link. Not having the IWIS mark is probably reason enough to replace the chain.

Sixto
87 300D

Most IWIS chains will have JWIS stamped on them.



.
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  #35  
Old 09-19-2011, 09:15 PM
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I have located a 1982 300SD engine. It also comes with the tranny but the seller is willing to separate.

Would it be a direct fit for both or just the engine? The engine is out of the car already and cannot be seen to be running. What is the minimum check I can do to make sure it will run?
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Last edited by ah-kay; 09-19-2011 at 09:19 PM. Reason: typo
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  #36  
Old 09-19-2011, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
I have located a 1982 300SD engine. It also comes with the tranny but the seller is willing to separate.

Would it be a direct fit for both or just the engine? The engine is out of the car already and cannot be seen to be running. What is the minimum check I can do to make sure it will run?

The SD tranny has an electronic speedo pickup the 300D has a mechanical speedo cable.
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  #37  
Old 09-20-2011, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
Nahhh,
a timing chain swap is WELL within the average DIY's ability to replace. on a running vehicle. I'd order a new factory key with no offset first, just in case someone has already installed an offset.

you need to have a garage to do it in my opinion... outside timing chain work is unwise.
Hmmm, I may have to get prices from VSTech to replace some chains in running cars for me. It's an 8 hour roundtrip drive, but avoiding a broken chain could be worth it...
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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D
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  #38  
Old 09-20-2011, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jusme View Post
Hmmm, I may have to get prices from VSTech to replace some chains in running cars for me. It's an 8 hour roundtrip drive, but avoiding a broken chain could be worth it...
I was thinking the same thing... I still have not heard back from the dealership... Just we should just vstech our cars... 5 hour each way for me.
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  #39  
Old 09-20-2011, 08:34 PM
vstech's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jusme View Post
Hmmm, I may have to get prices from VSTech to replace some chains in running cars for me. It's an 8 hour roundtrip drive, but avoiding a broken chain could be worth it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ngarover View Post
I was thinking the same thing... I still have not heard back from the dealership... Just we should just vstech our cars... 5 hour each way for me.
... seriously?
ok, lets see, you guys drive down here with a new chain in your car, help me for a day scrapping cars, and I change your chain while you wait?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
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  #40  
Old 09-21-2011, 09:14 PM
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Change of plan

We have decided to change the head as we can get a head for about $50.

1) $50 a good deal for a head? Never bought one before from a JY.
2) How can I check out the head is reasonably good?
3) I know I need a new chain. How about tensioner?
4) What else I need for this job?
5) We would not be doing anything extra-ordinary while we are in 'there'. But we want to make sure we are covered.

Thanks
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #41  
Old 09-22-2011, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
We have decided to change the head as we can get a head for about $50.

1) $50 a good deal for a head? Never bought one before from a JY.
2) How can I check out the head is reasonably good?
3) I know I need a new chain. How about tensioner?
4) What else I need for this job?
5) We would not be doing anything extra-ordinary while we are in 'there'. But we want to make sure we are covered.

Thanks
Take the head from an engine that still runs well before pulling it is the cheapest check. You could also do a compression check of the same running engine.

The best but most expensive option is to have the head checked out by a good automotive machine shop. Usually they will want to do a valve job though in the process. Seems to cost quite a few dolars compared to yesteryear though. Fifty dollars is a very good price for a used head if it is good.

I personally would want to strip things down before getting the used head. Just to check for any collateral damage from the chain breaking.

Last edited by barry123400; 09-22-2011 at 09:25 AM.
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  #42  
Old 09-22-2011, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
I have located a 1982 300SD engine. It also comes with the tranny but the seller is willing to separate.

Would it be a direct fit for both or just the engine? The engine is out of the car already and cannot be seen to be running. What is the minimum check I can do to make sure it will run?
As a general rule never buy an engine on the ground from someone you do not know well. Unless you can get it running and at least do a compression check if you do not hear any abnormal noises. Too many boat anchors out there.
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  #43  
Old 09-22-2011, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
As a general rule never buy an engine on the ground from someone you do not know well. Unless you can get it running and at least do a compression check if you do not hear any abnormal noises. Too many boat anchors out there.
yes, but the head is cheap so why not install it and see if it works? slap the JY head on it and a new timing chain and start that mutha up!!
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  #44  
Old 09-22-2011, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
yes, but the head is cheap so why not install it and see if it works? slap the JY head on it and a new timing chain and start that mutha up!!
At least deposit some fluid around the valve recesses to check for obvious leakage first.
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  #45  
Old 09-22-2011, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
At least deposit some fluid around the valve recesses to check for obvious leakage first.
As in all things, there is the right way and then there is the wrong way. If it were mine, I'd track down a competent Indy to complete the task. I'd buy a NEW head from Metric Motors (one less item to worry about) and hire out the head and timing chain install. If someone is not well versed in benz diesel design and repair procedures, it might be best to turn the project over to a pro. A man's time is worth $$$$ and spending valuable time attempting to learn diesel repair might be a long painful process versus what he could do to earn $$$$ doing what he normally does.

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