380SL Diesel Conversion Project - Page 14 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

chasinthesun · #**196** 02-04-2012, 12:06 PM

Lets get into the nice driveability youll have when spending time behind the wheel ,a tighter more nimble chassis is a well deserved payout when your done.I can say while driving my 300cd around the hillcountry here in Texas ,the 125hp that the 617 turbo delivers is more than enough goat to realize climbs and turns ,I just wish I could of video taped the day for prosperiaty ,that fall day was quite the view .The 300cd is one car that would be the closest to your SLs wheelbase ,106in compared to 96in for the SL.If you added some CLK rims your tuned suspention will just be unreal.

mach4 · #**197** 02-04-2012, 10:29 PM

The engine is back in the car ready to start on the final phase of hook-ups in anticipation of first start. It's been in and out so many times it now only takes 40 minutes to put it in. The big secret is to use a big honkin' drill with a 1/2" socket adapter and socket on the engine leveler. I cut the handle off and welded on a pair of 25mm nuts. It only takes 15-20 seconds to go from level to 30 degrees.

I got the new oil cooler cleaned out. I was anticipating a lot of difficulty getting all the aluminum shavings out but it was pleasantly easy. Several rinses with kerosine did the trick. I hadn't tried fitting it with the engine in so discovered that plan A, using a 90 degree hose end and a -10 fitting in the cooler wasn't going to work due to interference with the power steering pump.

So plan B is to use the 90 fitting and a straight hose end which is now on order.

Of course there is also a plan C available, which is to use the original MB fittings with the brazed -10 ends.

I then turned my attention to the transmission. I hooked up the driveshaft and I believe I should be just fine. I never measured the splines on the original but I think I might have had just a tad more engagement on the original.

All along I thought I was going to have to lengthen the shift linkage, but it turned out I didn't need to do anything... not even adjust the adjustment nut. So the fact that the transmission is in exactly the same relative position using the shift linkage as a proxy, confirms my driveshaft situation.

I also hooked up the NSS using my custom pigtail adapter and tested the backup lights and they worked perfectly. Cycling through the gears is perfect and jacking up one tire confirmed that going into and out of Park is as it should be.

unkl300d · #**198** 02-06-2012, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chasinthesun

Lets get into the nice driveability youll have when spending time behind the wheel ,a tighter more nimble chassis is a well deserved payout when your done.I can say while driving my 300cd around the hillcountry here in Texas ,the 125hp that the 617 turbo delivers is more than enough goat to realize climbs and turns ,I just wish I could of video taped the day for prosperiaty ,that fall day was quite the view .The 300cd is one car that would be the closest to your SLs wheelbase ,106in compared to 96in for the SL.If you added some CLK rims your tuned suspention will just be unreal.

Good point !

It will be interesting to read about the handling.

mach4 · #**199** 02-08-2012, 10:30 PM

Today I focused on some more of the little hook-up items that will be required to be able to get to first-start.

I disassembled the original main vacuum line that goes from the pump to the brake booster. It was really tricky because that MB line is very tough and doesn't cut easily. Using Diesel911's suggestion, I used 3/8 power steering hose and it was perfect. The more flexible line allows a far more convenient routing. I didn't install the dual port tap that services the rest of the vacuum system as I'll wait until I get other vacuum stuff hooked up and then position it accordingly.

I also disassembled the fuel lines of the 380SL by cutting off the crimp so I could use the raw barbed ends. The 380SL is a fuel injected engine, so everything is high pressure lines and fittings. I re-used these fittings with regular fuel line and hose clamps to get a really clean installation. I had planned to use steel braided -6 fuel line but it was way too stiff and just plain overkill. After much time under the rear of the car trying to figure out how I was going to rig the tank to supply hard line I finally started fabricating an adapter I think is going to work out just fine.

The other project was to de-install the old 8-'s era alarm system. It wasn't vacuum tube based, but it was close. I had to pull the wood panels out of the console and pull the radio to get at some of the wires... that was interesting and I managed to get everything out without breaking anything.

This weekend is 1/2 price at the JY so my list of little bits to pick up to finish the hook-up stuff is growing.

charmalu · #**200** 02-08-2012, 11:42 PM

1/2 price? what yard/yards? our PNP is 20% off on Tail Lights.

Charlie

mach4 · #**201** 02-09-2012, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

1/2 price? what yard/yards?
Charlie

ROLLGUY · #**202** 02-09-2012, 08:49 PM

Hold the phone!!! I just got done pulling the driveshaft to replace the cable tail cone to an electric, and they are different! The one on the car (cable) is part # 2012710001, the electric tail cone I have is part # 1262711201. I found a part # for the gasket for the trans that is in the car (from a 1985 300D)- 1232710580. I need to find an electric tail cone that uses the same gasket as the 300D (1232710580). Mach4, if you could tell me the part# of the tail cone that is on your trans (it should be 2012710001 if it is the same as mine-1985 300D). I found another# for a tail cone- 1232703811. Yours may be that #. If so, then my trans must not be the original one from the factory in this car. I did not put the driveshaft back on the car, because I might be able to get the correct tail cone from a wrecking yard. The problem is I don't know which model trans to pull it from! You may have the same problem when you get to the job of changing out your tail cone.

mach4 · #**203** 02-09-2012, 08:56 PM

Today was focused on more of the tasks of putting the car back together and working through the various systems.

I finished fabricating my fuel tank to hard line adapter. Here's what it looks like.

There's probably an easier way, but it gets the job done. To get from the standard SL's tank outlet hose I first went to a 5/8 hose fitting with a 3/8-NPT fitting; next a 3/8 NPT 90 to a 3/8 NPT-1/4NPT adapter, then a custom-made 1/4 NPT to an M10-1.5 to an adapter that gets me to the ball-end mercedes fuel fitting and finally to the fuel hose. Here is the adapter mounted in the car.

Next I turned my attention to making up the oil cooler hoses. I decided against the traditional aircraft red-blue fittings and got natural aluminum instead.

And here they are mounted in the car.

By the way, here's the rats nest of alarm wire I pulled out of the car yesterday.

ROLLGUY · #**204** 02-09-2012, 09:02 PM

Here are photos of the 2 tail cones together:[IMG]file:///Users/guest/Desktop/98826d1326671756-380sl-diesel-conversion-project-380-39.jpg[/IMG]

mach4 · #**205** 02-09-2012, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Mach4, if you could tell me the part# of the tail cone that is on your trans...

Just went out to see if I could find a part number and it is completely out of view under the crossmember and skid plate. From what you describe, I'm guessing you're in the same boat as me with a 722.4x transmission that has the different tailcone from the 722.3x transmissions that came with the rest of the 300Ds. As I recall the 722.4 came in the Cali versions of the '85 300D (and maybe some '84s too, can't remember)

If that's the case, then you can grab a tailcone off of a C220/C280 94-96. They use the 722.4 transmission and have the electronic pickup for speedo. Mind you I haven't actually done this, but my research and checking the junk yard last time I was there would seem to confirm this fact.

I put off investing time and effort in the tailcone until I get the car on the road and see how it performs and how leaky the transmission is. I might alternately swap it out for a 722.3, in which case I can use the tailcone that came off my 380SL.

ROLLGUY · #**206** 02-10-2012, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

Just went out to see if I could find a part number and it is completely out of view under the crossmember and skid plate. From what you describe, I'm guessing you're in the same boat as me with a 722.4x transmission that has the different tailcone from the 722.3x transmissions that came with the rest of the 300Ds. As I recall the 722.4 came in the Cali versions of the '85 300D (and maybe some '84s too, can't remember)

If that's the case, then you can grab a tailcone off of a C220/C280 94-96. They use the 722.4 transmission and have the electronic pickup for speedo. Mind you I haven't actually done this, but my research and checking the junk yard last time I was there would seem to confirm this fact.

I put off investing time and effort in the tailcone until I get the car on the road and see how it performs and how leaky the transmission is. I might alternately swap it out for a 722.3, in which case I can use the tailcone that came off my 380SL.

I did more research as well. I have found that the tail cone gasket on your 107 trans is the same as a W126 trans tail cone from 1981-'85. The tail cone is a different part# for the 107 than the 126, but the gasket is the same. I imagine that you could just source a 126 trans, and that might be easier than trying to find a C280 tail cone. There is also the question of the tail cone and parking pawl gear fitting inside. I can't see that happening, and don't have the desire to purchase one to find out for my project, only to find out it won't fit. The site I am using to find part #s is:Index to Mercedes EPC Parts Info and Diagrams | Everything Benz
It has been very helpful in some cases, but in others not. Sometimes the entire list of part #s does not show past the first page of parts. The tail cone ("transmission case-rear" as it is called) is on the 8th page, but the parts list is for the first page. If I had the list of part #s for the 722.4 trans for the C280, it would tell me the part # for the gasket and tail cone, and I could determine if it would fit before buying one. I suspect that they are specific for that trans alone, and will not fit into our 722.4 trans. It looks like I may need to source a 126 trans for my project, or find a way to convert the cable type fitting to an electrical signal that the instruments can interpret. I saw a thread on another forum that discusses that very issue on another vehicle (AMC Eagle (cable) using a jeep (electric speedo)speed sensor). I will try to find it. I am not very electrically savvy, but the mechanical part I can handle. I may need to go this route, as the car I am working is not worth the labor to replace the trans (again).

ROLLGUY · #**207** 02-10-2012, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I saw a thread on another forum that discusses that very issue on another vehicle (AMC Eagle (cable) using a jeep (electric speedo)speed sensor). I will try to find it. I am not very electrically savvy, but the mechanical part I can handle. I may need to go this route, as the car I am working is not worth the labor to replace the trans (again).

I found it:
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=36839.msg306749#msg306749

Could something like this be adapted electrically to work? I am sure the mechanical part is easy, but the electrical part I have no clue.

charmalu · #**208** 02-10-2012, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

We had one of those yards over in San Jose, about 35 miles from here. PNP bought them, and closed them down.

they use to have a 50% sales once a month.
But hey, we get 20% off on tail lights this week.

I think the plain aluminum looks much nicer than the blue or red fitting on the cooler lines.

Charlie

mach4 · #**209** 02-10-2012, 02:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I am not very electrically savvy, but the mechanical part I can handle. I may need to go this route, as the car I am working is not worth the labor to replace the trans (again).

One possible way to go, that might be more trouble that it's worth, is to either fabricate the 4 tooth wheel or snag one off a 722.3 trans with the electrical speedometer. The splines are the same and from all appearances the OD is the same, so it would probably just press on yours after removing the plastic gearing. That's most likely the easy part. The other part is to drill the tailcone for the pickup and find a way to mount it.

Or you might consider going with an external sensor. Years ago, I bought a car computer. It was pretty slick in that it came with a bunch of sensors including speed and fuel (so you could do all the cool average speed, average MPG, instantaneous MPG, time/distance to empty, etc) . The speed sensor was a hall effect device very similar to what MB is using. It came with 4 magnets that you glued to the driveshaft and then you mounted the sensor using the included bracket. Since our driveshaft is very stable, it would be very possible to affix something to the driveshaft that the sensor could read as 4 pulses per revolution and then fabricate a sensor bracket and do externally what is done internally in the tailcone we're trying to track down.

Just some more thoughts.

t walgamuth · #**210** 02-10-2012, 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

Today was focused on more of the tasks of putting the car back together and working through the various systems.

I finished fabricating my fuel tank to hard line adapter. Here's what it looks like.

There's probably an easier way, but it gets the job done. To get from the standard SL's tank outlet hose I first went to a 5/8 hose fitting with a 3/8-NPT fitting; next a 3/8 NPT 90 to a 3/8 NPT-1/4NPT adapter, then a custom-made 1/4 NPT to an M10-1.5 to an adapter that gets me to the ball-end mercedes fuel fitting and finally to the fuel hose. Here is the adapter mounted in the car.

Next I turned my attention to making up the oil cooler hoses. I decided against the traditional aircraft red-blue fittings and got natural aluminum instead.

And here they are mounted in the car.

By the way, here's the rats nest of alarm wire I pulled out of the car yesterday.

I feel pretty funny making this comment after looking at the quality of all your work, but I wouldn't want you to suffer a failure on your oil cooler line. If that brass colored elbow is actually brass, I would be concerned about its longivity. The factory uses all steel in those locations and brass is much less strong. The diesels vibrate a lot.

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