I decided to readjust my timing (various reasons) and when I pump the primer pump the least number of drips I can get is about 4/sec, and there usually is just a constant stream of diesel. I've done everything (full throttle, delivery valve removed, etc.) and don't understand why it is doing this, so if anybody can explain I would really appreciate it. If not I'm just gonna set it as advanced as it will go

Thanks

Ryan

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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual
1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street

1974 240D, New paint

Have you run out of adjustment on the IP? If so, you will need to remove the IP and reinstall it angled further toward the left fender.

Yeah all the way advanced right now, still has a pretty steady stream coming out, unless I stop pumping for a bit then it eventually slows down after about 8-10 seconds.

So what you are saying is that I need to remove the pump and advance the input shaft a tooth? Because that sounds like more work than I'm willing to do today haha

For now I think I'll just put everything back together and hope the new injectors help out some

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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual
1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street

1974 240D, New paint

It is easier to move the Pump tiny incruments if all of the Fuel Injection Hard Lines are off. Move the Pump a tiny bit and then pump on the Hand Primer and repeat that till you have the drips wanted.

If I removed the Pump I would be inclined to re-install the Pump as is in the Manual so that it was centered in the Kidney Slots.
I don't know were but some where from 1980 and before 1984 there is some IPs that have the Timing Mark wrong marked on the front bearing Cap of the Pump.

Maybe one of our Members has info on that are can point out where you can find the info.

.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Mine is an '82, so there is a good chance it got put back on wrong at some point if that is the case

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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual
1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street

1974 240D, New paint

It's very common for "experienced" IP's to be so retarded that they cannot be advanced adequately without being removed and reindexed. The problem is wear and tear, not malpractice.

This sounds like its gonna be quite a hassle, I know you pretty much have to remove the oil filter housing to get the pump off

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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual
1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street

1974 240D, New paint

That is the Factory Method so there is a Yes and no to that.
The IP will come out resonably easy with the Oil Filter on. However, due to the rear Bracket it does not go back in so easily. I modified the Bracket but it still took a while for Me to get it back in.
Someone else posted that the did it with the help of My thread but it sounds like He did not mod the Bracket.
Some People leave the Rear Bracket off eitirely.

If you remove the Oil Cooler Hose it is easier to get at that Rear Bracket Bolt/Nut.
MY
Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=297458

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

How's your chain stretch? Couldn't excessive chain stretch push the IP past it's normal adjustment ranger?

x2 on removing the shutoff valve and bracket, that will let you wiggle the pump right out of there

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I'll have to think about all this for a while

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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual
1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street

1974 240D, New paint

I R&R'd the IP on my friends car at least 3 times without removing the oil filter stand, or even the shutoff. I did remove the rack damper bolt the first time, but realized it was no necessary to do so. I was able to just hold the rear bracket below the IP by stretching the spring with one hand, and stabbing the IP with the other. I also had to squeeze the ends of the spring so it would not come out easily. I have yet to actually attach the bracket, but it is down there wedged just right to still provide spring tension.

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

.

MW IP with Bosch product code 251 had wrong marks (begin delivery).


edit: yes - 1982 so you watch for this one if pulled out
.

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

So I need to advance the pump a tooth, which would mean rotating it towards the fender (away from the engine). I might wait to do this until I get my w116 or w115 back on the road so I have something to drive incase I fubar lol.

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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual
1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street

1974 240D, New paint

What you need to do is:

a. Remove the IP with the crankshaft angle set to desired start-of-delivery.
b. Set the IP drive to start-of-delivery using reference mark.
c. Reinstall the IP in the center of the adjustment range.
d. Time IP.

Okay that makes sense, I guess I'll have to look into that. I think I should probably change the timing chain first though, since the car has about 284k miles and I'm not sure when it was changed last, definitely not in the 60k miles I've put on the car

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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual
1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street

1974 240D, New paint