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  #1  
Old 08-04-2013, 10:58 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
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DANG ! Broke my Pin Extractor tool after only 2 minutes of use....working on my 300TD

Opened the bag with my new pin extractor (cost about $65.00) - no instructions came with it, but it looked pretty straight forward. I threaded the one end into the guide rail pin (admittedly not all the way in, about 2/3 of the way in) - slid the outer floating coller towards the engine head, then spun the bolt untill it contacted the bearing on the coller. Then I took my 15mm open ended wrench and slowly turned. After less than a whole turn (about 3 or 4 short turns) - tha darn thing snapped. At first I thought the snapping sound was the pin coming loose - but I quickly saw that the tool had broken. Did I do something wrong?

Here is how I had it installed.



Here is how it broke.



I guess I'll go to the hardware store and find a long stainless metric bolt that matches the pin-thread, and a nut, and a big stack of washers to see if I can get these pins out on the cheap. I still want to know why the tool broke so fast (am going to talk to the place I bought the tool from and see if there's a chance I can get it replaced).

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  #2  
Old 08-04-2013, 11:29 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 36,882
I dunno, but I have had 100% success using an ordinary bolt and stacks of washers. The key is getting it spaced so that you have most of the threads in the pin filled with your pull bolt and quit turning when you feel it bottom out.

I suspect your pulling tool may have bottomed out too.

I used a bolt from the thermostat housing as my pulling bolt.
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  #3  
Old 08-04-2013, 05:29 PM
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Well - I got the top pin out with bolts and washers (and a 9/16 socket used as a spacer) - NOW I can't get the bottom pin to budge, not an inch (of 100th of an inch). I've thoroughly cleaned the threads (it was so caked with grease and muck that I couldn't see the pin hole initally). I've tried several different configurations, had to remove the main vacuum line forom the vacuum pump to make room) - but I'm bending the threads on my retractor bolts left and right (from tortional stress) - I don't want to break a bolt off in this dang pin - I was lucky on the first one that I was able to file down the edges of the broken threaded portion and extract it with a tiny little hobby wrench. Should I call a mobile mechanic before I break something off in there? I'm sure I'm in the right spot - accroding to the picture in the FSM - the threads are the same size (M6).
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  #4  
Old 08-05-2013, 01:21 AM
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If you show the surface of the break, I could tell if the metal of the tool is proper. If it is a rough surface, like cast iron, that isn't correct. You see that a lot in cheap Chinese tools. It should look more like torn Play Dough, which would be tough steel.

I didn't have any trouble getting my pins out with a bolt, NUT, and washers. It sounds like you are turning the bolt. You should hold the bolt and turn a nut down against the washers to pull the pin straight out. That will prevent the bolt from breaking in torsion. Best to try to find a grade 8 bolt at the hardware store. Grease the nut and washers. Only a sissy man would call a mobile mechanic. Tough up and screw up like me, just don't tell your woman about your mistakes.
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  #5  
Old 08-05-2013, 07:25 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
If you show the surface of the break, I could tell if the metal of the tool is proper. If it is a rough surface, like cast iron, that isn't correct. You see that a lot in cheap Chinese tools. It should look more like torn Play Dough, which would be tough steel.

I didn't have any trouble getting my pins out with a bolt, NUT, and washers. It sounds like you are turning the bolt. You should hold the bolt and turn a nut down against the washers to pull the pin straight out. That will prevent the bolt from breaking in torsion. Best to try to find a grade 8 bolt at the hardware store. Grease the nut and washers. Only a sissy man would call a mobile mechanic. Tough up and screw up like me, just don't tell your woman about your mistakes.
Tough crowd! ....but good advice.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #6  
Old 08-05-2013, 07:52 AM
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What Bill Grissom says. I found a very sturdy 10.9 grade metric capscrew at my local Ace for less than a sawbuck that easily pulled all the pins on my M116. Thread it all the way in and use the nut to drive it out. You can't break anything important that way.
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  #7  
Old 08-05-2013, 08:23 AM
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I feel kinda like that soldier that PAtton slapped around for being a coward.....thank you Sir, I don't know what came over me ;-)

I totally agree - after thinking about it, tortional stress is what is killing these bolts. I'm going to look for a M6 10.9 grade bolt (found them on the McMaster-Carr website) - and will grease up the friction surfaces. After I get this pin out, I'm only a few stephs away from getting the head loose (just have to remove all 26 head bolts - what could go wrong)?

Since I am taking the exhaust manifold and turbo out with the head I'm going to have to procure an enging hoist. The local rental place has one, but it will lift 10,000 lbs and has to be towed behind a truck. It could do the job, but I dould have no way to get it around infront of my car (it's nosed into my basement doors - essentially).

Thank you all for your excellent advice - I'll post some pictures after I pull this pin....
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:11 AM
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Find another rental store. I've never heard of an engine hoist that can lift 10,000 #. The largest will do about 3000#, enough for a big-rig engine. Find a knock-down hoist- it will have a capacity of 1500-2000#, more than enough for your engine.
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Old 08-05-2013, 02:18 PM
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Look on CL in your area for a hoist. here is a few

engine hoist

This comes with a Hoist and eng Stand
Folding motor hoist


3 Ton Engine Hoist

Engine Hoist 2 Tons

Engine hoist

Garage sale, guy might still have the Hoist
POTOMAC RUN ROAD GARAGE SALE

Here is one for rent
For Rent: Engine Hoist/Lift and Engine Stand


Check other cities in your area. I bought a new used one for $65, and I have seen some for free. though not often.


Charlie
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  #10  
Old 08-05-2013, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Look on CL in your area for a hoist. here is a few

engine hoist

This comes with a Hoist and eng Stand
Folding motor hoist


3 Ton Engine Hoist

Engine Hoist 2 Tons

Engine hoist

Garage sale, guy might still have the Hoist
POTOMAC RUN ROAD GARAGE SALE

Here is one for rent
For Rent: Engine Hoist/Lift and Engine Stand


Check other cities in your area. I bought a new used one for $65, and I have seen some for free. though not often.


Charlie
Thanks !

Actually did find one her e - a 2000 pound unit for $100. Picking it up tonight. I was wrong aobut the size of the other rental place, it was a 5000 pound lift, designed to be pulled behind a truck.
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  #11  
Old 08-05-2013, 02:41 PM
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10K lbs engine hoist is a lot of lifting power !!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrianfoto View Post
I feel kinda like that soldier that PAtton slapped around for being a coward.....thank you Sir, I don't know what came over me ;-)

I totally agree - after thinking about it, tortional stress is what is killing these bolts. I'm going to look for a M6 10.9 grade bolt (found them on the McMaster-Carr website) - and will grease up the friction surfaces. After I get this pin out, I'm only a few stephs away from getting the head loose (just have to remove all 26 head bolts - what could go wrong)?

Since I am taking the exhaust manifold and turbo out with the head I'm going to have to procure an enging hoist. The local rental place has one, but it will lift 10,000 lbs and has to be towed behind a truck. It could do the job, but I dould have no way to get it around infront of my car (it's nosed into my basement doors - essentially).

Thank you all for your excellent advice - I'll post some pictures after I pull this pin....
The head weighs about 50-60lbs. Lifting it using a beam with 2 person could do it. I would recommend using a light duty engine hoist, 1 ton would do, to give you more control lifting and setting it afterwards. I lifted the OM601 head by hand but I set it down using engine hoist as you do not want to damage the new HG.

Literally all the 10mm bolts from the engine can be used to extract the guide pins. I use 1 bolt from the valve cover and with a stack of washers. You just have to be careful and do not screw it all the way in, leave some room for it to 'pull'. I buggered up the top pin and the bolt snapped INSIDE the guide pin. I had no choice but to drill a hole at the back and punched the pin out. You cannot do it with the lower pin.

Good luck.

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