1982 300D won't start -- is engine turning fast enough? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

leathermang · #31 09-03-2014, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skippy

........ If they aren't done the valves get tight. Eventually they get to where they don't fully close and bleed off compression resulting in a no start. ......

MORE IMPORTANT
is that good valve seating against the head is a MAJOR part of cooling the valves.... that time those valves are closed heat is being transferred to the head by conduction.
On the way to ' not fully closed and bleed off compression ' you get less and less force applied to the valves against the head... and you run a HUGE RISK OF BURNING one or more VALVES.....

Keep your valve clearance specs within recommended tolerance ... check them on a regular basis....

sloride · #32 09-03-2014, 10:26 AM

Did you get it restarted after running out of fuel, and then ran the battery down with the parking lights being left on or never restarted after running out of fuel? What is the throttle position while trying to crank it (try flooring it until it catches)? It sounds like it is firing on one cylinder or two. With a newly purchased car you should change two fuel filters, confirm that the tank strainer is not plugged, and that you are getting fuel to all injectors with the hard lines cracked at the injectors. Then cycle the GPs twice for twenty seconds then crank. While changing GPs I also spray a shot of WD40 in each prechamber after using the small brush to remove carbon flakes from the reaming process, seems to help restarting with out any trouble. My $.02

leathermang · #33 09-03-2014, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sloride

......Then cycle the GPs twice for twenty seconds then crank.

While changing GPs I also spray a shot of WD40 in each prechamber after using the small brush to remove carbon flakes from the reaming process, seems to help restarting with out any trouble. My $.02

The FSM says to leave the Glow plugs on for about 45 seconds... time it... it seems like a long time when you are sitting there looking at it... but they have a chart of how hot the Glow plugs get at various number of seconds of heating...

When reaming the glow plug holes it is important to use heavy grease on the reamer flutes.... so as to bring that carbon buildup BACK OUT ... this needs to be a careful repeat process...

You do not want to blow (or let fall) ... any of that carbon into the precombustion chamber...as it has NO WAY to exit...
it DOES have the ability to impede the flow of fuel spray into the combustion chamber... from those very small radially drilled holes meant for that purpose.

Lots of good threads about the reaming process in the archives....

Zoticus1 · #34 09-03-2014, 11:22 AM

Replace your canister style fuel filter and fill with diesel upon installation, make sure your screen style fuel filter is clear ( near injection pump ). You can shoot a small amount of ether in also, it will not harm engine.
Keep your canister fuel filter loose and bleed the system via primer pump until no more air comes out.
Focus on removing air before you try diagnosing glow plugs and such, if it turns over decent it should start regardless of a bad glow plug, it will just take a minute.

sloride · #35 09-03-2014, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

The FSM says to leave the Glow plugs on for about 45 seconds... time it... it seems like a long time when you are sitting there looking at it... but they have a chart of how hot the Glow plugs get at various number of seconds of heating...

When reaming the glow plug holes it is important to use heavy grease on the reamer flutes.... so as to bring that carbon buildup BACK OUT ... this needs to be a careful repeat process...

You do not want to blow (or let fall) ... any of that carbon into the precombustion chamber...as it has NO WAY to exit...
it DOES have the ability to impede the flow of fuel spray into the combustion chamber... from those very small radially drilled holes meant for that purpose.

Lots of good threads about the reaming process in the archives....

Thanks for the reminder, as I have just put a tube of grease in my GP change kit. Does an 82 have a relay that does not time out? My 85 times out at around 15-20 seconds regardless of ambient temps thats why I stated two cycles of the GP relay.

leathermang · #36 09-03-2014, 12:02 PM

I do not have enough FSM's to know about your particular car... but it may be that the LIGHT times out based on the ambient and engine temperature... but that if you just leave the key in the on position the actual current keeps going to the glow plugs...
That is what it sounds like the FSM is saying..

Silber Adler · #37 09-03-2014, 12:36 PM

When I checked the valves on my 85, they all were very tight. Many were to tight to put even a .003"feeler gauge in.

funola · #38 09-03-2014, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zoticus1

........ You can shoot a small amount of ether in also, it will not harm engine.
............................

Warning!!! Do not do this!

leathermang · #39 09-03-2014, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Warning!!! Do not do this!

Not true.
check the past threads including from WHunter....

If you pour LIQUID ether... in yes.. but you can't find that ...
spraying aerosol in WHILE cranking ... it has so little power compared to diesel fuel you can not believe it.... not a problem..
use WD40 if you are worried about ' ether' ...

Do not spray into a machine which has an INTAKE air HEATER.... like my Ford Tractor... that causes an explosion...

uberwasser · #40 09-03-2014, 01:28 PM

whunter's take on it -

"Ether", use and abuse. *Flame suit on*

Ether is better not used, because it more often gets misused, is what I take away from it.

leathermang · #41 09-03-2014, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uberwasser

whunter's take on it -

"Ether", use and abuse. *Flame suit on*

Ether is better not used, because it more often gets misused, is what I take away from it.

' more often gets misused' ?
it allows one to isolate the problem to the fuel system...
follow the directions... spray WHILE cranking... a few seconds... into the intake tube...

and possibly get the car to home so you can work on it there... as compared to having it towed... etc...

cooljjay · #42 09-03-2014, 05:24 PM

If you were to use either, I would disconnect the glow plugs....then you should be ok...

vstech · #43 09-03-2014, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

' more often gets misused' ?
it allows one to isolate the problem to the fuel system...
follow the directions... spray WHILE cranking... a few seconds... into the intake tube...

and possibly get the car to home so you can work on it there... as compared to having it towed... etc...

As long as the GLOW PLUGS are disconnected, ether is ok to try getting the motor started, but it is SERIOUSLY unwise...

leathermang · #44 09-03-2014, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

but it is SERIOUSLY unwise...

Where to you get that information ?

The amount of BTU's available in the amount of ' ether' which can be drawn into the cylinder by the movement of the piston is incredibly small compared to the BTU's in diesel fuel.
Because the glow plugs are in a blind hole relative to the air movement... the ether does not come in contact with the glow plugs until pushed up into the precombustion chamber.

whunter · #45 09-04-2014, 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

' more often gets misused' ?
it allows one to isolate the problem to the fuel system...
follow the directions... spray WHILE cranking... a few seconds... into the intake tube...

and possibly get the car to home so you can work on it there... as compared to having it towed... etc...

Other members: Please note that leathermang is not disagreeing with my DIY on how to use starting fluid, it is the same location with only a slight variation of application time.

---------------------------------------------

leathermang.

I trust a professional like you to understand 1, 2, 3, seconds = a few.

We discussed this in person as I recall, with no disagreement.

----------------------

Again, OTHER members:

My concern was and is:

Many people have extreme difficulty understanding how a tiny spritz in the air scoop/hose is correct, and lacking the correct information they decide MORE IS BETTER.

This is where you see an owner spray 5 - 30 seconds of starting fluid, before cranking the engine, and/or spray directly into the intake/turbo...

Too often, abused engines come to me after the damage is done.

PLEASE read this thread.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/85676-ether-use-abuse-*flame-suit-*-3.html#post3381890

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