Update:
This junkyard motor was way out on valve adjustment. Getting about 340 lbs now. I ordered all new gaskets for it, good quality. I'm wondering if I should replace the valve stem seals while I have it out. I did a mystery oil soak, and when I first put oil in the valve cover it came out the exhaust manifold. Now it's sealing, but I kinda feel like the mystery oil is duct tape for rubber items.

The valve stem seals are amazingly cheap...
so are the rotators and the springs...
I would not put together an engine without refreshing those.....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Thanks! I did a leak down test, partly because I'm running out of things to do while it does its MMO soak. A little leakage on 3 of the exhaust valves, like less than 10%. It was an original owner motor and an old lady that took the car in to the yard, so I'm thinking it could have some buildup on the valves. I've been putting MMO in daily with the intake valve partly open, dropping the injector back in, and rolling it to right before the exhaust valve opens. At which point I turn it as fast as possible to push it up into the valves. After I put some back in the cylinder and let it sit for a day for the rings.

I'm thinking I need to just get it in, put some MMO or diesel clean in the tank, and do some italian tuneups. I happen to have a 12v pressure pump from an RV, and might inject some water in as well. I have a nice grade south of my house. I will normally avoid it, but it might help for this purpose.

I read somewhere the magic number is three IT's and three valve adjustments, if this happens to be the problem. At which point I can check leak down again and if it persists or gets worse over time, I have an extra head I go through, and spend minimal money on.

Long term, I've been reading up on a OM606, 6 spd manual, and a w210 differential. Gigantic project, but its good to have a dream. I'm more of a computer guy, and am interested in building a standalone controller for the 606 IP, with predetermined mapping points that can be set from within the car. I like those big horsepower projects with the 603 IP but would like to be able to not overfuel and adjust for performance or economy on the fly.

Well I thought I should check back in, and state where I am at with the car. I got busy for awhile, pieced away at the car when I could, but just got it back on the road. You have seen my electrical problems post. All too excited I hooked up the junkyard motors glowplugs and cranked away. Little did I know, because I didnt even check, they were shorting and melted my headlight switch. I have since repaired the wiring, installed my original glowplugs (after testing), and it fired right up (after some panicked time thinking I had major problems when I didn't clean the connections).

The car runs good. Maybe its the fresh valve adjustment highlighting a difference, but it has way more power. I mystery soaked the hell out of it, and got some smoke at first, but its cleaning up. Only one oil leak, because they sent the wrong oil filter housing gasket. Its gonna be fun changing that in the car, I couldn't wait. After a few hundred miles I'll do a leak down test again, with it warm, and check on that exhaust valve. Judging by the black smoke the first time I ran it, I'm hoping it was just buildup and the mystery plus italian tuneups cleaned it up. I still have my other head, if a problem persist I'm gonna lap the valves and have it ready.

I have fresh fluids in the tranny, differential, and brakes. I'm going to need to do the slave and master for the clutch eventually, but no pressure loss after sitting a few days, just a little seepage. Im wondering if I can rebuild these myself (yes, i am that cheap).

First priority I have is wheel bearings. Back right is making noise. About to pull it in and see if its brakes, but I noticed it wobbling when going over some bumps. Defintely get to the bottom of it before any more miles. Ive researched the job, and I was pretty impressed that there is an inner and outer removable race. After seeing destroyed spindles before, I am highly impressed with mercedes.

If I feel wobble, I'll order rear bearings. I'm a stickler for doing left and right together. I just did brakes on a little toyota where they threw junkyard pads on, inner was thinner, so when someone checked the brakes they looked at the outside and said it was fine. Truck had 400,000 miles with original rotors, 2mm below spec, and when the pad got to the metal the piston pushed out of the caliper, and the brake pad fell on the ground. Slightly irrelevant other than my concern with always doing both sides the same.

I definitely need to grease bearings and new seals at minimum, but at $157 for a four wheel set from this site (I'm done with ebay and this car), I'm debating ordering a whole four wheel set plus the socket needed? Does that sound overboard? I would hate to open it and see I need them, and have the car down why I wait.

Also, has anyone made that socket before? There is a similar tool for honda dirtbike clutches. I've taken an appropriate sized 12pt socket and cut away at it leaving four tabs in place. I'm guessing with a larger application like this it might bend.

Thanks again everyone for the help. I'm hooked for life on these things.

I've made a long term build thread. Thanks everyone for the help. I'm in it deep now. Is there a mercedes club tattoo?

1970 220D in for the long haul


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