New 220D owner, need direction - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

VT220D · #76 10-01-2014, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

So to perhaps slow things down a bit... did you get a chance to experience what it is like to drive a w115 with a om615 220d engine?

I agree fully with Shortsguy1 on the 220D. I've had several and I've faced the same dilemma with everyday utility. In stock form with a 3.92 rear these cars are on the ragged edge at modern highway speeds. If you can find a strong OM615 you could get away with a 3:69 and bump your (theoretical) top speed to 90mph. Better yet a strong OM616 from a 74-76 240D will drop right in and probably allow a 3:46 to be used (96mph theoretical).

The W123 engines don't fit without oil filter mods. The OM617 engine used in the 75-76 300D W115 isn't a simple swap either. Unlike the W123 the W115 OM617 length increase is split between the front and rear. Engine mounts, radiators, shroud, oil cooler and many other small parts are different. Driveshaft length is specific to the W115 300D and none were available in the US with manual transmissions. To convert you can use the 220D flywheel but you should use the larger and rare 300D flywheel. If you want a turbo you're in for a long haul and a lot of fabrication.

My current 220D has an OM616 and a 5 speed. It has no options and has lightweight W123 alloy disc wheels. It will manage 75 mph on the highway even on most hills but that's it. 85mph cruise is possible but hills pull it right back down. In other words it just barely meets the standard for modern highway operation. Also, even in 5th with a theoretical max of 105mph (3.92) it taps out at 90mph on the flats. Just like my stock W123 240D 4 speed. The 5 speed helps with noise and acceleration but not top speed.

If I add AC, an automatic, power steering or lose some compression this car will end up a Sunday driver.

IMHO hold out for a strong W115 OM616 and change the rear end ratio to a 3:46. Use the speedometer from a W115 300D to match the 3:46. You'll get some highway utility, decentish acceleration

and a very simple swap.

Lucas · #77 10-01-2014, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skippy

Cold compression is what gets it started. I think it's kind of silly to be testing hot compression. BTW 220 is bad and 160 is horrible.

Well thats good to know. The fsm is showing 220 minimum. However, it was a horrible testing procedure. As well, I didn't hold the throttle open. Still waiting for it to show up. With getting it dropped off and time to play with it, I'm feeling good about it.

Is there much of a difference in the service manual specs for hot and a real world cold test...

Lucas · #78 10-01-2014, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VT220D

IMHO hold out for a strong W115 OM616 and change the rear end ratio to a 3:46. Use the speedometer from a W115 300D to match the 3:46. You'll get some highway utility, decentish acceleration

and a very simple swap.

The guy actually has a 616 motor, but it was from a 123. Long term, I'm looking for a turbo donar. If I find a proper 616 close, I'll do it. Thanks, thats a nice mild plan.

Btw, there is 76 300D complete car no rust on sacramento craigslist. The guy says he has two motors. Sounds like a project and a half.

t walgamuth · #79 10-02-2014, 06:31 AM

two comments. in that body style the four cylinder engine and five sit with their backs in the same place not the fronts. the five cylinder really makes a difference in a car even in non turbo form, and with an automatic. It goes from dangerously slow to acceptably slow and with the taller diff it is very comfortable on the highway.

VT220D · #80 10-02-2014, 11:17 AM

[QUOTE=Lucas;3391901] I'm looking for a turbo donar. If I find a proper 616 close, I'll do it. Thanks, thats a nice mild plan.

If you want to know what's involved in a turbo OM617 W115 do a web search for dropnosky's 115 chassis project. Read the entire thread particularly the part about the cross member mods, oil filter and turbo mounting. It's a great project but it isn't even remotely easy.

If you do the W115 300D OM617 swap get the entire car. There are too many differences to just swap the engine. I'd use the automatic too - at least initially. No drive shaft issues.

Also, flywheels are balanced with the engine. Make sure it's marked before removing it. It can go on in any of 12 positions. The factory marks can be hard or impossible to find. Mark the crank and flywheel if in doubt. If your donor engine needs a flywheel change you'll need to have a machine shop match balance the flywheels and transfer the mark to the new one. Some are neutral balanced some aren't and you can't tell by looking.

Lucas · #81 10-02-2014, 11:58 AM

Thanks. Yeah I understand it's no easy task. I'm not old enough for that yet.

I'm going through my old motor currently, heads almost off I'll find out what happened.

I'm dying to know if this thing has sleeves. I know they started sleeving at some point. I also saw there is 615.913, mine being a 615.912. Wondering if that may be the difference.

leathermang · #82 10-02-2014, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas

......Is it silly to be doing cold compression? ....

No, what is silly is doing it with a small weak battery and jumper cables....

Shortsguy1 · #83 10-02-2014, 12:44 PM

615.913 is the 200D motor. Zoooooom!

Lucas · #84 10-02-2014, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

No, what is silly is doing it with a small weak battery and jumper cables....

Well that makes me feel better. Maybe I'll get lucky on this second motor. Stopped for the day on my original one. Need. 12mm Allan socket, and had to order it.

Upon looking up sleeves, the years listed are 70-73.

leathermang · #85 10-03-2014, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

615.913 is the 200D motor. Zoooooom!

So that ONE number..... 912 to 913 makes all the difference !!!
Good to know.... as the 912 is certainly not a ' Zooooom' motor ...LOL

Lucas · #86 10-03-2014, 08:05 PM

Hey, 913-1 equals faster alright. Haha. I think growing up on a small farm and going to farmers markets makes me not mind slow. First truck was a toyota tacoma with 580k miles. My father tried to tow a forklift with it, the front end lifted up in the air and broke the frame in half. They welded it back together with some plating and bolts and I drove it a year. Beyond that, pulling way to much weight to LA with a pickup. This mercedes is a speed demon compared to some previous experiences.

After spending a day locating a 12mm Allen socket to remove three plug type bolts down the center of the head, I realize they aren't head bolts. There is one more towards the front slightly to the drivers side, 10mm. They don't have a head on them, fully recessed. Slow down, I know. However, it's slightly difficult to remove the head. I've tapped on it slightly, and the front came up 0.5mm. However, in an effort to slow down, here is a pic of the head, and the diagram, to confirm that these four recessed bolts aren't holding the head down. FYI, they won't come out for the life of me.

My head:

http://i.imgur.com/SKv2tk5.jpg

The FSM diagram:

http://i.imgur.com/z3Bjnq5.jpg

Lucas · #87 10-03-2014, 08:14 PM

I count 18 bolts large bolts removed.

There are four labeled a. The two lower ones are: holding the dipstick, and holding the ground for the glow plugs. The other two on the front of the motor, I'm drawing a blank

Edit: two down in the timing chain assembly. Woops

leathermang · #88 10-03-2014, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucas

...... makes me not mind slow. ......

The problem is that some Highways these days do not necessarily have a long enough integration lane... or a ' get up to traffic speed'.... lane...

Lucas · #89 10-03-2014, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

The problem is that some Highways these days do not necessarily have a long enough integration lane... or a ' get up to traffic speed'.... lane...

You're gonna kill me, but I live on the side of a major highway. No on ramp, just a merge lane. However it's almost easier because you can see and wait. As of others, I'll keep that in mind and try an avoid the short ones.

I drive 5 miles to my building, and will be spending a lot of time in a sprinter van (diesel mercedes of course). I'm just starting a new company, and just getting by for the moment. Soon enough I'll get a new pickup. And long term, the Benz will get stripped to the chassis and built proper.

I'm getting ahead of the game. Here's a shot of the underside of my head. See that one that's colored different? I'm going to go look at my FSM again before dropping the pistons and crank.

http://i.imgur.com/fEdU4b5.jpg

Lucas · #90 10-03-2014, 09:26 PM

Ladies and gentlemen, the alleged culprit. #3 crank bearing. The lower bearing was slid halfway into the top one.

I also found different types of nuts holding the rods on #2. This thing has been pieces together before.

http://i.imgur.com/GjlRS3l.jpg

I tore this motor down to learn and see what happened. For the sake of learning, I have one question. Crankpin diameter at 4th repair in FSM is 50.95-50.96. This crank is at 50.86-51.03 on #3. So this crank is not turnable? FYI, #2 is at 51.33-51.36, so if that was the case across the board I would have to turn it to 51.20-51.21 as per 3rd stage of repair?

Not that I would bother with a 615 motor....