Next question. How much could I come up with parting the car? $1,000? I saw a set of headlights go for $400 on eBay...

Just a motor. Not sure if it has a flywheel on there.

Don't do it, if I was close I'd buy it and give it a proper life other than parting out a perfectly good car....

I bought my car and it hasn't run in well over 20 years and now it's purring along just fine.

Have you soaked the cylinders in marvel mystery oil? My engine was pretty hard to spin by hand until I soaked the cylinders for a week and the I could spin it by hand

\

It was running right before. Heard clunking while driving. Was told by mercedes friend to drop tranny and inspect flywheel/clutch. There is definitely something not right. Tranny spins fine. My motor is ready to pull so I'll dissemble and find what happened. I have a big breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe on the end and I cant turn it.

What would you do? Swap in a motor?

If you can find a low mileage 220 then SURE....
otherwise... no...
if it were a 123 model it would be different finding an engine.. or swapping in a larger engine...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

You caught me. Ha. I'm sitting her looking at the specs on the 2.4, and these motors measure out the same except for bore. I'm really curious if all the things like bearings and stuff dont transfer over.


Edit: this thread

615 vs 616

im gonna make some calls tomorrow

It is the oil filter that is the problem... if you are thinking about swapping..
if rebuilding.... what do you have when you get through ?
You did not say which AC compressor you have... I am assuming the York....

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Sorry sir. I have a big hole where the compressor should go, and some old hoses zip tied to the fender. I believe it is a vacuum system that operates it. It has a green round nob on the dash. Im also starting to believe I have the wrong heater control valve. The arms bolt on top instead of the sides, and the cable doesn't match up.

I'll get to that eventually.

I have a about $1,000 in parts for crank bearings, seals front and rear, complete cylinder head gasket set including valve stem seals, timing chain set, pistons and sleeves. I'll need to really measure everything out and see what else it needs. Valve springs probably.

In the end I will have a really really slow good looking car.

You already have pistons and sleeves ?
Valve springs are cheap... and check to see if it has valve rotators too...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

oh no I ment I added up the parts and it was about $1,000. I may not need sleeves if I trust the machine shop boring it. But I'm unsure about the metal qualities.

Valve rotators is new to me but with a little searching I believe it does. I'll go through the manual and the car.

Is there anything else for my list? The cam and bearings should be ok? I'm sure the FSM has specifications for this.

I'm gonna try cranking on it some more, but it has a horrible noise, even in neutral. So there must be something wrong.

Lucas-
Are you familiar with car-part.com. It lists used parts from all across the country. They have a OM615 with (claimed) 400 psi compression for $750 located in San Jose.

If you just want to drive the car and don't want to spend countless hours doing custom work, finding an engine from a w115 is the way to go (and it could be a 220d, 240d, or 300d).

__________________
1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

^^^ I would go check out that engine...good price for that compression...

Don't attempt an at home rebuild, this engines are not easy to rebuild....hints to why rebuilds cost thousands...

__________________

You do not....
You need to get a FSM and read it before you go any farther.... to have any chance of it working correctly for reasonable amount of time... you put the sleeves in... measure the piston going into a sleeve...and hone the sleeve to fit that piston...you are thinking about loosey goosey OTHER make and type of engines..... the tolerances are very tight... the specs are all in the FSM... not the Haynes... but that is helpful as a backup manual if they make one for one's car... but they do not for yours.. they do for a 123.... another hint of the direction this is going...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I wasn't familiar with that site, I'll check it out. It just seems like a lot of labor to drop in another used motor that may or may not be in good condition.

I do have the FSM and went through the rebuild. I understand the tolerances and how tight these are. People can do it, and I want to be one of those people, and this motor is a great opportunity to learn. My understanding was most machine shops don't have the capability to home to the correct specs, and that sleeves are designed to fit the pistons/rings perfectly.

I started reading about the head last night, and seeing the bronze valve guides and sodium valves, and zero clearance. As well, that all valves should be replaced if rebuilding. That's really adding up the $$$$'s. And I'm understanding that kind of effort and money might not be worth it for this under powered motor.

If I find a 616 for a 115, won't the oil filter still be in the wrong location? And have vacuum shutoff on the IP? $750 doesn't sound too bad.