yeah, it's my mom's place, and when dad died, the income stream vanished... so forclosure has taken root, and she's hoping somebody will invest in the place.
it's likely good for 4million after development, but no developers want it... uber rich neighborhood, un developed 2 acres huge road frontage, and neighborhood road even stops in the center of the property line... any decent developer would drop 4 mcmansions there and clean up. alas, it'll likely go into auction and get snapped up for chump change... somebody is gonna make a killing.
however, in my area, there are plenty of homesteads under 40K...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Oh that is sad, so I assume its in short sale now. It seems like the property would be a good investment though.

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Sad to hear.

must be around 4 acres !

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1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Well went to the junk yard, all day trip...super tired. I want to try to grab some more misc stuff why I was there.

The first car ended up having the same bushing, it is a lot harder to get to the retaining bolt on the 240D's. So the first one I removed the bracket that holds the power steering pump and filter on. Also on the first car I had removed the vac pump and injection pump as I was going to remove the second gear as well....as soon as I seen it was the same bearing and it was also worn down....I moved to the second car..

The second car I couldn't get the cap off the bearing, I was getting frustrated. It was also a pain to remove the retaining bolt, but after about 30mins I got the retaining bolt out, I was able to push the bearing up just enough to grip the cap..

And of course the bearing was the same but this one had very little wear to it and it was on a 315k car.

So I got two good gears but not the sets as I wanted ran out of steam...and both the bearings....I will post photos later...

It was a good day, I got everything for 21$. One 240D had palomino leather! I wish the skins weren't all torn up but I got some cranks, some seat trim, knee panel, climate control panel...lots of small things...I didn't have the energy to remove the seats to get the belt claps off either.

It was also interesting, the first 240D had a tach..I was OMG that is rare, pulled the cluster and seen it was added...some PO had installed a 5cyl manifold with the turbo on the 240D and had blocked off the extra port, I also noticed a freeze plug JB welded in...all the chrome was also shaved....Wish I had more energy to spend grabbing parts and the cars were in better shape...

Photo op

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Well here are the thrust pieces and gears.

I am not sure what to do, I asked the guy who bought the wrong thrust piece from if I could exchanged it but I think I should just return it.

Reason being is that I found a good thrust piece at the junk yard with just minimal wear on it, believe it or not it came from a car with over 300k on the clock. but with this one, I rounded off the nut so getting that off may be impossible but good thing is it doesn't really need to come off.

My bushing is in the middle



Mine on the left good one on the right



Stuck cap



Gears



Very very little wear



So the difference in the used thrust piece I removed and the one that was in my car is 3mm. It looks like a brand new one is only mm longer. I can't find the FSM article now but I remember reading that mercedes states there can be a small amount of play in the gear assemble...so I think ones I lap this used thrust piece I will be good for lot longer...

I hate hate that I have to find a used oil pump but it looks like I will pull the trigger soon on another one..

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FSM chapter =>

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/615/05-410.pdf

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Okay ok I am getting really pee'd right now...

I got the new oil pump, looks good...dirty but good....very little play in the shaft, I opted not to open it and inspect the gears.

So I slide it in, one bolt goes in fine...the other while torquing snapped..I was so upset....lucky I didn't have to drill it out, a small screw driver was able to back it out...

So then I get the gasket mating surface all clean and shiny, but the new gasket on the pan....got all the bolts finger tight and on to torque....first one...and snap!!

WTF??

I have the torque wrench sat at 7.5ft pounds...what am I doing wrong...it was getting cold out so I didn't want to finish...

I come in and wash up and thinking....why would this happen? torque wrench has worked before...user error??

Then I think I figured it out, a po hit the pan hard enough to break the pickup....that it must have stressed the bolts...someone didn't torque the pan to FSM spec...so that must be why they are snapping on me...

Your guys thoughts?? Shouldn't the oil pan bolts take a good amount of torque??


New pump



Nice and tight..a little wear but still a nice fit..



The bolts

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No , they should not take a bunch of torque....
to properly torque any bolt is an exercise in patience....
first you need to run a tap into the hole it is going into.
clean that with some kind of spray....
then wire brush the bolt and see that it has no messed up threads...
and be sure it is not TOO LONG for the hole... that will really mess up the situation..
Proper torque if you are using a torque wrench assumes a lightly oiled thread going into the clean hole.
Over torquing is the primary cause of gasket leaks.... particularly when dealing with sheet metal....
Many small bolts have the torque reading in INCH Lbs....
if you apply Foot lbs at that rate the bolt will be unhappy.

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I did most of that, I cleaned all the bolts in engine degreaser before I reassembled.

Maybe my issue is that I am using a 1/2in torque wrench on a 3/4in 5mm allen head socket....

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Figured it out, it says that the wrench I have is rated between 20-150ft lbs.....harbor freight tool for you, the wrench is marked for under 20ft lbs....so tomorrow if we don't get rain....get new bolts and torque wrench able to do the small stuff....hope I didn't destroy the gasket...

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I only use torque wrench for head gasket, rod bearing, crank bearing etc when it is kind of critical. I just hand torque the rest. It is my car so I take it easy. Life is too short.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

I am so with you there, this is what I usually do but I was like I don't want any leaks or issues I will do it by the book....well see where that has lead me?

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Well I am happy!

Got the broken bolt out...the gear, the bushing, the lock bolt in...had a little trouble here in there but it all went together...

Got a new valve cover gasket on....I did as was suggested and filed the towers also the edge flat...Hoping it won't leak...will see...

Got the oil in and then started it up..

Gauge went right to 45, no more of the lower clank...still notice a little clacking but after a min or two it goes away unlike the other clank. Idle seems smoother...after a 10 min free way ride the gauge showed about 20 but after it idle for a bit it went to 30 and pressing the peddle it pegs..

So all in all it was a success...Imagine some more driving will start cleaning the engine out a little better as the pressure is there now..

Here's an after video...

After Video

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now you need to drive to Phoenix and help the dude with his car that won't start!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I sooo would, if I had the money for fuel....love road trips


Well tonight I see I still have part of clank. Its not as loud as it was when I was getting concerned...It could be from the injectors as I was told one of them wasn't firing correctly.....think I will be fine till spring, getting cold here...said it might snow...I will get them to you know who then..

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