Project Smokey Wagon 2014! - Mostly just noob questions inside. W123 1985 300TD - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

eatont9999 · #**106** 02-03-2015, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarTowels

I'm guessing I should make separate threads for issues so that people will actually see them, link off to them from here and then update this thread with their results.

At any rate, I made a little video with a bunch of questions inside: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4MkFf2BAek

I'm still researching most of these myself, but if anyone wants to chime in that's always appreciated. The first four minutes are where the questions are and the last four is mostly just rambling.

1. Receiver Dryer for A/C
2. EGR tube. See if you can find a EGR delete kit.
3. Looks like a PCV input. Either fix it or plug it for now. It is letting unfiltered air into the turbo.
4. Temp sensor wire for ACC and possibly Aux fan override.
5. Return the fuel system to stock. You may need to source OE used parts.
6. Yes, that is the washer pump. It is not broken but may not work, either. It fits on the side of the washer tank and pokes in to the bottom with a grommet.
7. The overboost protection sensor has been bypassed. It is the part with the cut tube in it. You can T your boost gauge in to the white line.
8. Engine vibration dampers are not needed. They are deleted on my cars because I don't see the point in spending a few hundred $ for something that does not make much difference.

WarTowels · #**107** 02-03-2015, 07:25 PM

Awesome, thanks for the info!

On the list the biggest thing I want to fix is that biofuel filter. I've tried to look up info about it but haven't found anything. So many hoses! It seems like if I could figure out which is which... they could just be reconnected with some properly rated barbs?

ROLLGUY · #**108** 02-03-2015, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

1. Receiver Dryer for A/C
2. EGR tube. See if you can find a EGR delete kit.
3. Looks like a PCV input. Either fix it or plug it for now. It is letting unfiltered air into the turbo.
4. Temp sensor wire for ACC and possibly Aux fan override.
5. Return the fuel system to stock. You may need to source OE used parts.
6. Yes, that is the washer pump. It is not broken but may not work, either. It fits on the side of the washer tank and pokes in to the bottom with a grommet.
7. The overboost protection sensor has been bypassed. It is the part with the cut tube in it. You can T your boost gauge in to the white line.
8. Engine vibration dampers are not needed. They are deleted on my cars because I don't see the point in spending a few hundred $ for something that does not make much difference.

I will comment on 2,3, and 5.
2. I suggest you purchase a "Test Pipe" and use it to replace the trap-ox. It comes with an EGR block off plate.
3. the rubber tube that you touched is actually a "T" that the plastic tube fits into (look underneath).
5. agreed, remove all of the equipment for the WVO system. It is a lot of plumbing that is not needed, and that system is not the best anyway (I ran the Lovecraft system for years, and decided it is not worth the hassle). I am blending when running WVO, so no equipment is needed. You are running pump Diesel, so all the equipment is just taking up space in your engine bay. To remove, connect a fuel line from the supply and return tubes to the lift pump and return nipple on the fuel filter housing. All other fuel lines and equipment can be removed. The heater hoses have "T"s in the lines, so you will either need new hoses, or use 1/2" copper tubing (5/8 OD) and hose clamps to splice where the "T"s were removed.
Everything else stated above is good info.....Rich

eatont9999 · #**109** 02-03-2015, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarTowels

Awesome, thanks for the info!

On the list the biggest thing I want to fix is that biofuel filter. I've tried to look up info about it but haven't found anything. So many hoses! It seems like if I could figure out which is which... they could just be reconnected with some properly rated barbs?

This should help explain the stock fuel system.

eatont9999 · #**110** 02-03-2015, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I will comment on 2,3, and 5.
2. I suggest you purchase a "Test Pipe" and use it to replace the trap-ox. It comes with an EGR block off plate.
3. the rubber tube that you touched is actually a "T" that the plastic tube fits into (look underneath).
5. agreed, remove all of the equipment for the WVO system. It is a lot of plumbing that is not needed, and that system is not the best anyway (I ran the Lovecraft system for years, and decided it is not worth the hassle). I am blending when running WVO, so no equipment is needed. You are running pump Diesel, so all the equipment is just taking up space in your engine bay. To remove, connect a fuel line from the supply and return tubes to the lift pump and return nipple on the fuel filter housing. All other fuel lines and equipment can be removed. The heater hoses have "T"s in the lines, so you will either need new hoses, or use 1/2" copper tubing (5/8 OD) and hose clamps to splice where the "T"s were removed.
Everything else stated above is good info.....Rich

Agreed on your comments. A "test pipe" will address the long-term issue with the trap ox. WarTowels will need to consult his state laws before making that decision. Some states hold even older Diesels to high emissions equipment standards.

Those heater lines are a disaster. If it were me, I would order all new heater lines and replace the whole setup. It looks like someone got awfully creative in that engine bay.

ROLLGUY · #**111** 02-04-2015, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

Those heater lines are a disaster. If it were me, I would order all new heater lines and replace the whole setup. It looks like someone got awfully creative in that engine bay.

Yes, and the space for the washer bottle will be freed up again. There is actually only two hoses that are affected by the heated filter= The one by the oil filter stand, and the other connected between the coolant pump and the water pump housing. If you wanted to just remove the equipment and free up the space until the replacement heater hoses arrive, you could just run the longest hose from "T" to "T".

WarTowels · #**112** 02-04-2015, 10:41 AM

Well, fairly certain I'm missing the entire stock fuel filter assembly. Now that I've seen it I am sure I don't have that.

Interesting choices, previous owner. Interesting choices.

eatont9999 · #**113** 02-04-2015, 04:40 PM

It looks like you have most of the stock fuel filter head intact. It also looks like the PO chopped up the hard plastic lines, so those will need to be replaced. We need more detailed pictures to tell which ones, though.

WarTowels · #**114** 02-09-2015, 11:57 PM

You are correct ^ the stock system does seem to be mostly there.

Got terrribly sick for a week so today is the first day I touched the car in a while. I'll need to take a closer look to make sense of the whole mess.

I pulled VIN into the garage for a bit, going to fix the hole in the firewall (one of the leaks), fix the hood ornament, attach the stock TURBODIESEL badge and maybe inspect that biofilter nonsense some more.

Had a miserable time trying to start the car today, the battery seemed down on power from sitting for a week and its about nine degrees out. Even with the help of buddy battery it took three attempts and lots of cranking. When I finally did get it started I put it in the garage and went to shut it off and it did the thing I've heard about where it doesn't shut off with the key and you have to go stop it via the engine lever.

Now... I've never tried to start the car and shut it off in such a short period of time (5 min) and it is very cold out. So... hopefully that won't happen again through regular use. Battery is on the trickle charger to get it back up to top.

Cheers

WarTowels · #**115** 02-16-2015, 12:07 PM

Bunch of updates coming.

Something funny for my vanity plates:

WarTowels · #**116** 02-18-2015, 12:13 AM

To date all of the wiring I've removed from 'Vin'. All non oem except the alternator wire which I replaced.

Here's the Lovecraft biodiesel parts I pulled. This simplified the plumbing quite a bit. I replaced two hoses and reused some of the others after cutting back to size. Put on two new fuel filters as well.
Thanks for the info on the lovecraft system and also the stock system.

With the bio system removed I now have the room for the stock washer reservoir. Luckily for me whoever decided it was a good idea to take out reservoir was kind enough to leave the bracket. Installed the one I bought and replaced all of the tubing as well. The old motor worked, but since I was replacing everything else I decided to splurge the $12 for a new motor too. The pressure is excellent. Works wonderfully!

As for the hole in the firewall I found below the battery box by the drain- I sanded it out, cleaned it up covered the affected area in Rust Bullet (two coats) and then fiberglassed with both mat and sheets. Three layers to build the hole back up and then I used 3M seam sealer over the entire area. I'll water test again sometime next week. Quite confident in my repair, but the question is if there is another leak somewhere else... possibly driver side.

WarTowels · #**117** 02-18-2015, 12:30 AM

The pcv tubing that exists the valve cover is showing signs of wear. Cracks and such. This is likely the reason it's spitting oil. As a bit of a test, I changed out the clamp on it for a tighter one that is giving a much better seal. In addition I diverted the tubing to a clear plastic bottle I placed in the engine bay. I plugged the other ports so there are no air leaks. I want to monitor two things, first to see if oil is coming out at the valve cover to pvc seal and also how much oil over a period of miles ends up in the bottle that otherwise would have gone to my air filter or turbo.

Car has been sitting in the garage for several days now and only a few drops of oil have hit the floor. I'll continue to investigate and monitor the situation.

WarTowels · #**118** 02-19-2015, 02:47 PM

Properly badged now.

Also replaced the front hood emblem that had broken with a nicer shinier one.

WarTowels · #**119** 03-01-2015, 09:49 PM

I didn't realize upon naming this thread I wouldn't have the ability to rename my thread as I went. I wouldn't have named it as such, oh well.

Interior leak:
Anyway, I leak tested the car this weekend on the passenger side where I made the repair. Happy to report it was 100% dry after independently testing each part- windshield, intake vents on hood, gap between the hood and body and gap between the door and fender. All checked out good, no interior leaks. Excellent.

Repeated the above on the driver side, failed when I pour several gallons between the hood and the body (the same place the passenger side leaked from) I found water coming into the driver side. Bummer.

Likely it's the same basic rust issue that I fixed on the passenger side, I'll have to investigate more. If true, this one should be a bit more difficult as there's far more gizmos in the way.

Rear washer system
Spent a bit working on the rear washer system, actually proving to be quite a bit more difficult to get working than the front, naturally. I've replaced much of the washer lines with new, but there were a few areas I gave up such as behind the headliner. I tested to make sure they were clear, so no big deal.

After reconnecting everything up after various tests it seems the last bit of line that runs inside of the hatch may be clogged reducing almost all of the flow. I just found out how to remove the nozzle so I'll see how that goes tomorrow.

Removing Lovecraft Bio Diesel

Happy to report no leaks still. I can't tell if it's the general maintenance I've been doing over time or just getting the car out on the road more but it feels more responsive now and dare I say even a bit more powerful. I'm guessing the Lovecraft system was creating a loss of pressure along with the regular fuel filters which needed changing.

WarTowels · #**120** 03-08-2015, 07:08 PM

Interior leak:

Sadness. I did another rust repair on the drivers side under the hood hinge. It was a little crusty but no holes. Yet the car still had a trickle of water getting in when I dump water on that side of the car.

After more searching, I found that the windshield gasket that I had installed has not sealed properly at the bottom corner on the drivers side. I found water leaking in there and then running down behind the dash.

I'll be calling the glass company tomorrow who installed it to see what they say...

Been cleaning more carpets, the rust repair and picked up a boost gauge installation kit for a spare VDO gauge I had. Curious to see what the turbo is doing.