A journey into the the infamous Om642 oil cooler leak! - Page 7 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

phlfly · #91 01-12-2017, 08:14 PM

Well it was looking before I clean it. I will monitor and how it will look after 1,000 miles. But I still will replace PCV valve. When I got off intake from the turbo intake, it was oily under turbo, but not really went , well it wasn't like a "lake"., as you said sooty.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

Note there is no "throttle body" on a diesel like on a gas engine. However there is a flap actuator in the mixing chamber to enhance the ability of the engine to suck the sooty EGR gases into the air stream (so it can make a nice carbon crusted mess in the intake manifold). Because the government thinks that's a good idea or something.

Ok back on topic.

There is no connection to the engine oil path in the mixing chamber. It is just bolted on the front of the engine. If oil is clearly leaking from the mixing chamber then it has to be getting there via the incoming air stream. The most likely points of oil to be introduced into the air stream are the PCV valve or the turbo.

My rant about the EGR got me thinking. It also may be just condensed EGR grunge seeping out through a bad seal or even possibly a crack in the mixing chamber (it's made of plastic). If the PCV pipe is (relatively) clean and there is not a ton of oil in the turbo after you take off the Y-pipe, then maybe it's just EGR goo seeping out.

Do the deposits on your alternator feel oily or sooty?

phlfly · #92 01-13-2017, 01:57 PM

I can't find p/n for the mixing chamber (flap actuator), that is pass side on front of the engine. There is EGT pipe connected to this assembly.
I have access to Alldata from friends but I can't find it there either.

Can you anyone post diagram with p/n

After cleaning yesterday all around, alternator got again oil on housing. I have to replace all gaskets there, before moving on next elimination component.

Thank you
Thank you

phlfly · #93 01-14-2017, 01:51 PM

I got diagram from MB dealer. Well, it's not many gasket there to leak. I will try to replace them all late in next week.

What is interesting is my vin number is ML350 Bluetec, but I have 320 label on back of trunk.

phlfly · #94 02-10-2017, 12:23 PM

I got replaced gasket as showed my post above 210 and 150. And it was missing some bolt between plastic 200 and metal part 190.

Also, replaced CVV valve and found that is a membrane (dick) is like glued to top lid of the valve. So it was not working at all, open all the time, as I understood, under boost the disk moves down (suck by turbo) and closes high pressure oil going to turbo inlet.

perrski · #95 02-19-2017, 01:47 PM

If you don't mind me "Chiming" in here. The 2008 e320 Bluetec (108,000 miles) that I inherited has oil in the same area. I found that the air cleaners were both very dirty and I also found cracks in the large hose that connects the intercooler to the intake manifold. That hose is oil soaked on the inside and outside. I read somewhere that poor air filter maintenance can cause oil to be pulled through the breather and that makes sense to me. I suspect that the high turbo charger pressures pushed gases/oil out the cracks in the hose and sprayed onto parts in the same area as phlfly has posted.

jay_bob · #96 02-19-2017, 05:42 PM

Yes this is a known problem. High delta P in the air filters causes the crankcase breather to suck oil into the intake system.

Remember that changing the air filters requires an adaptation with Xentry. Just another thing to keep you coming back to the dealer.

If however you have oil leaking out the other end of the weep hole down by the junction of the engine and transmission then you also have to look at the oil cooler.

Also if you have a swirl flap motor fault you might as well do the whole oil cooler seal job, you are 90% of the way to the oil cooler to get to the swirl flap motor. The swirl flap is really important for engine performance, it plays off the pressure waves in the intake to enhance engine combustion. When ours failed and I jumped it out with a resistor there was a definite change in performance and mileage.

carsandcapp · #97 04-10-2017, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

Yes this is a known problem. High delta P in the air filters causes the crankcase breather to suck oil into the intake system.

Remember that changing the air filters requires an adaptation with Xentry. Just another thing to keep you coming back to the dealer.

If however you have oil leaking out the other end of the weep hole down by the junction of the engine and transmission then you also have to look at the oil cooler.

Also if you have a swirl flap motor fault you might as well do the whole oil cooler seal job, you are 90% of the way to the oil cooler to get to the swirl flap motor. The swirl flap is really important for engine performance, it plays off the pressure waves in the intake to enhance engine combustion. When ours failed and I jumped it out with a resistor there was a definite change in performance and mileage.

Greetings Jay Bob from another Clemson fan and season ticket holder just north of you in Charlotte. This is my first post in the MB forums, but I have about 2500 on the Porsche forums. Looks like my 2012 blutech is exhibiting some of the ailments described in this thread. I'll being doing some discovery this week, but hopeful it is not the oil cooler leak, just some gasket-related stuff on the topside. I've seen no oil on the garage floor yet. (fingers crossed)

Just wanted to reach out and say "hi" and send up a flare letting you and the board know I am going in! Now hoping you actually see it. ; )

GO TIGERS!

carsandcapp · #98 05-01-2017, 06:23 PM

Hey, quick update here. I got under the hood and ID'd the turbo gasket leak and hoping for no oil cooler leak. So I bought the iCar tool and the MB repair/WIS discs off of Flea Bay. I then read the codes. Definitely swirl motor controller issues. I consulted WIS and then researched the vendors making EGR bypass software and hardware. No one is making anything reputable for a car this new. I was headed towards the 4.7k Ohm resistor motor hack at this point. Bought a pack of 10 on Amazon for like 8 bucks. I fiddled a bit more under the hood and then I decided this was going to be out of my league. I have almost no diesel or MB experience. I am an air-cooled Porsche guy.

I then had the 2012 e350 at two shops in the Charlotte area. First shop replaced the Y pipe (cracked), installed a new turbo gasket, air filters and did some analysis. We discussed the swirl motors and the resistor "hack". They said they we not comfortable with that approach and punted. I really didn't fault them for that.

The second shop I went to is run by a German guy I've known for awhile that is a little more aggressive and has race experience. I explained what I and the other shop had done so far and I showed him a couple threads related to the swirl motor controller hack. I handed him the keys and the WIS discs. He said "no problem" in his German accent. I smiled to myself knowing that it wasn't going to be easy.

Fast forward 5 days and he texts me. The E350 is fixed. Honestly, I was surprised because I already had began girding myself for a visit to the dealer (YIKES). But believe it or not, the German guy figured out how to implement the swirl motor hack for the 2012 e350. Picked it up yesterday and it runs great. No oil cooler leak, no CEL and no limp mode. I asked him twice if I should sell it and he said "nein". He told me it should be fine.

Sorry I don't have more technical details, but I didn't do the real work. Anyway, wanted to share and let others know that the new-ish OM642's can utilize the 4.7k Ohm resistor hack too; assuming you have the skills of an aggressive German race mechanic. ; )

satyr · #99 05-21-2017, 09:49 PM

Wife's new to us 09 e320 is beginning to drip at 75K, and this job was done under warranty in 2012 so I'm sure it got the orange seals back then... Sadly, I'm going to have to take it somewhere to have this job done. Anyone have a place they trust in the Virginia/DC/NC area?

markg612 · #**100** 06-11-2017, 10:53 PM

Okay--I'll put up some pictures shortly, but I just knocked it out noon to noon this weekend.

On the ML, some pointers not reveled within,

1) Removed the cowl cover and wiper assemble right off the bat, had I done this first, I'd been done in a day.

2) Pull the firewall shrouding right away too!.

3) This job is undoable without an E10 and E12 socket.

4) The 3 bolts on the exhaust/turbo elbow are a *****. The top 2 have to come out and the bottom is slotted so the elbow lifts off, but access on a R164 install is horribly tight.

5) A plethora of 3/8" and 1/4" extensions are a must for the turbo and exhaust bolts. Note, I've seen a lot of concern about the 2-T45 headed bolts and the base plate bolts being frozen in this thread. If they're corroded, I'd be worried, but they're only torqued to 20nm, and they popped right out, the 6 bolts on the 2 triangular flanges and the 3 on the back of the turbo are torqued at 12nm +90º and need as much ass as you can muster to break loose. An 3/8" E10, a 12" extension, a 3/8" to 1/2" converter and a long breaker bar pop them loose, but not with out substantial force, once they come loose, the spin out.

6) Reassembly--there seems to be a logic to the layup of fuel, return and electrical lines. Low pressure fuel lines, i.e., returns, and supplies seem to have been layed down first, then electrical THEN high pressure fuel. I had only one do over where I needed to dismantle what I'd just installed to properly route components.

7) I was long parts from the list provided here, maybe a half a dozen or so seals I didn't need. I'll look them up and identify them for future reference.

8) Lastly, this is a MF of a complicated job. Organization, preparation and access to the EPC and the WIS REALLY made this go smoother than what I'd expected based on the commentary about this job by other posters herein, sans the original thread author. If you feel confident you could roll your tool box into a MB shop and start working there tomorrow, jump on this, but if not take it to a quality shop.

ROLLGUY · #**101** 06-15-2017, 04:11 PM

My good friend Dave bought his wife a low mileage '07 E320 Bluetech a few years ago, and I have done most of the mantainance on it since they got the car. It has started dripping oil, and I am sure it will get worse. I am gearing up to do this job. I have a screenshot of the parts list (25 items). With the exception of maybe a swirl flap motor, is there anything else parts wise that I will need? I will probably be printing the step by step instructions. Are they available in PDF form somewhere? Once the parts and tools arrive, I want to be ready to get the job done with as little down time as possible. I have the Icarsoft MBII for use when needed. Thanks to all that have done this job before me, this will be a great help......Rich

markg612 · #**102** 06-15-2017, 04:46 PM

You'll need:

2 triangle seals that connect the exhaust manifolds to the Y pipe on the turbo and 6 new copper bolts

1 exhaust pipe to turbo seal (large elbow off the back of the turbo and 3 new copper bolts (Possible need the elbow to DPF seal. I reused mine without issue, it's smashed in place)

2 gaskets for the turbo stand, bigger more square for the bottom, small long gasket and 2 proprietary T45 headed turbo to stand bolts for the top.

2 Intake manifold gaskets and coolant interconnect pipe that comes with new o-rings

Charge pipe to turbo o-ring

Charge pipe to muffler/ oil seperator o-ring

Muffler/oil separator to intercooler air hose, 2 of these, one for each hose

3 separate seals for the air box on the front of the intake, left, right and EGR feed line.

Upper radiator hose to thermostat housing o-ring-

Orange MAF yoke to turbo seal, and the breather pipe seal. *NOTE* there are 2 part numbers for the turbo to yoke seal that are not interchangeable. there's a 642 094 00 80 and a 642 094 04 80. The link below is to a 04 80 on newer cars or vehicles with updated MAF yokes. The little ears and holding protrusions are indictive of the 04 80 and differentiate the two.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/285/31464988573_17584cd48e_c.jpg

Fresh coolant.

Two other seals I did in the process was the triangular black expansion/surge box that's just left and above the glow controller in front of the right head and the breather O-ring on the base of the breather at the back of the right head.

I used the lists here and FCPs list and ended up with about a dozen extra parts, the list I've created here is all one needs, Use the EPC on startekinfo to check part numbers. Importec and FCP have everything.

As a note of caution, I would HIGHLY suggest removing the small Torx headed screw that holds the bracket together that ties the swirl vane linkages from either intake manifold together. Also, the turbo to stand gasket from MB has tangs to hold it in place during install, the generic one does not. I also used CU800 on ALL the exhaust bolts, both threads, and mating faces.

I pulled the left fuel rail and all the hoses and wiring out of the way which made removal and install super simple. TAKE PICTURES if you're worried about reassembly and layout your parts on a table and label them as you remove them, keeping the fasteners and brackets together in associated piles.

Lastly, I bought new swirl vane linkage clips JUST IN CASE as they tend to break if you attempt to futz with them in any way. Inspect for slack or slop in the linkages when you have it apart.

AllDatarepairDIY is a good source for lack of access to Xentry or the WIS--especially for torque specs

dieselbenz1 · #**103** 07-27-2017, 10:01 AM

When working on an ML doing this job is it all accessible from the top side or do you have to raise the vechile on occasion to get under it.

jay_bob · #**104** 07-27-2017, 08:09 PM

I put it up on ramps before starting just in case I needed to get underneath.

Also this helped me with not having to bend over as far to reach stuff (I'm 6'3").

Definitely get protection on the fenders.

I think the only reasons I had to get underneath was for:
- draining the coolant (you do need to take the lower pan off first for this).
- draining the oil (unless you have a top sider)
- Looking for a socket I dropped
- Checking for leaks afterward
- And of course I wanted to clean all the grunge off the bottom of the engine.

It is coming up on 9 months for me and hasn't leaked a drop!

Also it has consumed no appreciable amount of oil. It recently needed an oil change according to the computer and the dipstick was still at 3/4 between full and add. Prior to this I would have to add a quart about halfway through the oil change interval.

ROLLGUY · #**105** 08-09-2017, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

My good friend Dave bought his wife a low mileage '07 E320 Bluetech a few years ago, and I have done most of the mantainance on it since they got the car. It has started dripping oil, and I am sure it will get worse. I am gearing up to do this job. I have a screenshot of the parts list (25 items). With the exception of maybe a swirl flap motor, is there anything else parts wise that I will need? I will probably be printing the step by step instructions. Are they available in PDF form somewhere? Once the parts and tools arrive, I want to be ready to get the job done with as little down time as possible. I have the Icarsoft MBII for use when needed. Thanks to all that have done this job before me, this will be a great help......Rich

Well, today is the day. I have everything I need (I hope) to do the job. I have printed all the (76) pages (thank you Actros617 for the excellent documentation), and have all my tools ready to go. I hope to get the job done in the next three days (I have access to lights if I need to work late). I have a nice shop to work in, and a large table to set parts out on. I have air, and a solvent tank if needed. I will post my progress. Wish me luck! Thanks, Rich