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#1
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How do I remove face plate from instrument cluster?
In case I get motivated (will probably need to warm up) to fix the speedo needle that has broken off in my 84 300D, how do I remove the face plate (i.e. the clear plastic) from the instrument cluster? Can I leave the cluster in place?
When it comes to old, brittle plastic parts, I have the opposite of the Midas touch....I always break things.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#2
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whoa there!
You will need to remove the entire cluster and then remove the speedometer unit from the cluster.
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#3
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All I want to do initially is access the needle that has fallen off. Why would I need to remove the speedometer to do that?
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#4
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Because the clear face is part of the cluster. Removing the cluster is not that difficult. Remove the speedo. cable from its bracket under the hood; the cluster can be pushed out from the back. You'll also have to disconnect the oil line and the main plug. Several bulbs on the passenger side of the cluster will also have to be removed. I believe member James Dean also does cluster repair.
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'83 300D, 126K miles. |
#5
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There are three separate sections that unscrew from the rear of the cluster housing (black plastic with clear face). Once the center speedometer unit is out, you can then repair/replace it at will.
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#6
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Here's basically what you have -
Take out the three modules from the back and you have access to the plastic faceplate, the gauge faces, needles and the rest. This picture is from a 124, but all clusters of that era were essentially the same design. While you've got everything torn apart, here are some things to consider 1- replace the caps on the clock 2- paint the needles 3- add an aux ground 4- clean the plastic 5- replace the light bulbs
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Current Stable
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#7
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OK...got it. Everything has to be accessed from the back. Just out of curiosity, if the face plate got cracked or something, could it be replaced?
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#8
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Quote:
Did you needle break off the face? Can you see a shaft poking through? This for your 123? I have one or two 123 speedometers, they are 85 MPH units I think though so might not work.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
#9
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I guess you missed some of the classes (Cluster Repair 101) when the instructors were describing the inner workings of the W123 Cluster.
Here is a Diesel Giant how to on removing the W123 Instrument Cluster. How to Repair Your Broken Odometer The clear face plate can be removed, but you will probably crack and break it. It is glued on pretty good. I find removing the 10mm bolt at the transmission end, and pulling out the Spedo cable, then reaching down below the Brake Booster where it comes up and goes through the Fire Wall will give me a bit more slack when pushing out the Cluster from the back/under dash. I find if I don`t, then it is tight to get my hand behind the cluster to unscrew the cable from the Spedo head. There is also the big plug with about 15 pins that is in pretty tight. Be gentle with it when wiggling it off. have read of some breaking the plastic plug. Use a 13mm and a 10mm open end to remove the Oil Line. DO NOT START THE ENGINE WITH THIS LINE REMOVED You will get an oil bath. This is not a difficult job. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#10
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There generally is a plastic holder the retains the speedometer cable under the hood that is attached to a small metal bracket near the back of the engine/front of the transmission on the left side of the car. Squeeze the back of the plastic holder with your fingers and the plastic holder will come lose from the metal bracket. This will give you a couple more inches of slack in the speedometer cable which makes it easier to disconnect and reconnect the cable to the back of the speedometer. When finished simply reattach the plastic cable holder under the hood.
Using a wire coat hanger wire about 8" long create a hook on the end on the wire. Push the hooked end of the wire between the dash opening and the instrument cluster on the left and right end alternatively. Using a pair of vice grips on the straight end of the wire you will be able to gently pull the instrument cluster out far enough to reach your hand behind and disconnect the speedometer cable. The instrument cluster will then pull out even farther to give you access to disconnect the wires and the oil pressure gauge line. Last edited by BWhitmore; 01-15-2015 at 12:26 PM. |
#11
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Occasionally a 123/124 cluster will be stuck really good, usually because it hasn't been removed in many years. The 123 has an advantage in that you can remove the panel below the dash, driver's side, and reach up to push the cluster out from behind. There are also tools (hooks) available to pull the cluster from in front. Sometimes both techniques are required.
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#12
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They look like the attached photo. Part #126589033300
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#13
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Can a speedometer needle be taken off from the spindle of a speedometer? I only need the speedometer mechanism to fit a different faceplate ( off of miles to km's faceplate)
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#14
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Yes. The best tool to use is a hand puller as used for clock repair. But not having that, if you carefully protect the face with a rag or thick piece of cardboard, you can carefully lever off the needle with a pair of screwdrivers. They usually a bit stubborn if the instrument hasn't been disassembled before, but I've never failed to remove on safely.
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#15
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The clear faceplate of the instrument clusters are glued and not intended to ever be removed. I would not attempt removing one because of the very high probability that you would crack either the faceplate or an aged, brittle cluster assembly.
Take the whole cluster out as previously recommended and disassemble to gain access to the instrument faces. Takes some time to do properly, but it is not in any way difficult. J.G. |
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