G'day Folks,

I was wondering if anyone has come across this problem before.

"Price of W201 rear ABS sensors" at the dealership - holy crap!

Perhaps some one who is at one with electrickery has found an alternative?



The data I have so far is as follows =>

A2015400017 early version with a pin sticking out equivalent Bosch 0 265 002 008

{This isn't meant to go with my differential}




Later models that look like mine =>

A2015402217 Normal ABS Bosch number 0 265 002 230 - 182 ex tax @ dealership

A2015402317 with ASD Bosch number 0 265 002 232 - 182 ex tax @ dealership



I want to replace with A2015402217 / Bosch number 0 265 002 230

But I don't want to pay 182 euros plus tax!



I've seen W124 sensors that are way cheaper but I don't know the differences in the sensors to know if they are going to work

For example Bosch number - 0 265 002 208 or Mercedes 1245401917

Does anyone know how I can find this out, other than buying and trying?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If the sensors are 2 wire, I'd expect them to be a coil of wire wrapped around a magnet. This will make a AC wave form and generate voltage.

I'd expect other cars to use the same rear diff and sensor body so at that point only wire length would change. Have a look at the 190rev.com site, someone has probably tried this.

I was thinking the same (about the wire length) - thanks.

190rev - hmmm - nice forum - almost impossible to access!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

No auto-recycle yard nearby that will yield up a sample from a 124 car that you can inspect?

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

It is a part that gets snipped for ease of removal - well ease of removal of the differential

I have just found a new unused W124 sensor (the one listed above) for a not too too bad price (60 euros including postage) that I'm going to try...

...60 euro gamble - you pays ya money and ya takes ya chance!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I got the Bosch W124 part and it fits in the differential and does not foul the sensor wheel on the pinion shaft.

No great shock.

A small step forward I know but an important one!

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Small steps - getting there slowly

This is what the wire on the inside of the car is meant to look like wit the W201 sensor fitted



Here's the longer (good guess) wire of the W124 sensor fitted



Well I can live with that.

Still I'm not out of the woods just yet - I don't know if the sensor will work.

Fingers crossed.

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Any update on this? I need to replace my rear sensor as well.

Sorry I forgot to update.

Works like a charm.

As far as I can make out the only difference is the length of the wire (W124 being a fatter bastard)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Dear Community,


I hope it is not against the rules to bump such an old thread. Search engine brought me here and since I am facing the same issue, I thought best not to open a new topic.


The issue at hand is that I need a replacement rear ABS sensor, but it seems near impossible to purchase. The subject is a 1991 MB 190 2500TD, and if I am not mistaken, the A2015402217 sensor is what I need. I am unsure because apparently it was replaced by a Bosh sensor at some point and the Bosh item number has faded.



Why I think that this sensor is faulty are the symptoms (ABS light comes on after starting to move forwards), and the measured resistance which is 0.64 (as I read 0.8-2.0 is the normal value for these sensors)


So the question is: is there any place to purchase this sensor at reasonable price, or is there any alternative sensor that I can use?

As mentioned above the wire on things like this often gets snipped in a junkyard to get the diff out quickly. This isn't fatal as long as you have a bit of wire to work with, they are just a pair of wires in a jacket and can be easily extended. The signal is just a basic AC pulse coming off the coil. You can splice it with a soldering iron and heat shrink or even crimp on splices if you must.

I would try to hit a junkyard and see if I could pull one. ABS sensors are long lived and robust and most are likely to be working.

First though, did you confirm that all electrical connections are clean and properly inserted, and no wires are going to ground? Corrosion can cause all sorts of issues. Most common multimeters are not very accurate at readings below even 5 ohms, so the difference between 0.64 and 0.8 is negligible.

__________________
1993 300D 2.5L Turbo

I did try calling few places that disassemble 190s but no luck so far. I found some cables online, but very expensive.

I am unsure how accurate my multimeter is, it is not dollar store stuff, but is not professional tool either. Somewhere in the middle. I did also test the two front sensors, they gave 0.94 and 0.96 respectively. The difference between these and the rear one and the general 0.8-2 "rule" is why I am suspecting it to be the cause.

The problem with ABS sensors is the resistance isn't super critical, they work by the magnetism created in the coil by the teeth passing it (simplified explanation). The only proper way to test them is to apply an oscilloscope to them and spin the wheel, and compare them to a known good one. I've also seen test procedures involving measuring the voltage generated at a known wheel speed.

Those numbers seem really low though honestly, did a little reading and I'm guessing those are actually KΩ, so the front ones are around 900Ω and the rear is 640Ω?

In which case even a junk meter would be accurate and the odds are pretty good that the sensor is faulty.

I just would hate that you spent a lot of money and effort to track down a sensor only to find that it wasn't the issue.

__________________
1993 300D 2.5L Turbo

"so the front ones are around 900Ω and the rear is 640Ω"
Yes, that is what I measured.



I too am worried about buying one new sensor and still ending up with same results, but at the end of the day, I can just sell it if that is the case.


Thank you for your input