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Old 03-21-2016, 04:27 PM
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OM606 Glow Plug removal Tips and Tricks

OM606 glow plug removal tips and tricks
Back on 12 March l finally had to change the glow plugs on my ’95 E300 Diesel, with OM606.910 (non-turbo) engine. At least one was bad (I only measured the resistance of #1 through #5) and the pre-glow timer light would never light during starting but would always light immediately after starting, and cold starts were very rough.

I spent a couple of weeks reading everything I could on this forum and asking fellow MB diesel owners what the secrets are, and now I will share them with you, as well as my experience. Using the steps below, I successfully removed all six plugs that were very much stuck and carbon packed and just begging to be broken off by an impatient, unaware and unprepared mechanic.

This job took me over nine hours from start until all the new plugs were in. I’m in a holding pattern right now, as I had to order some parts from dealership. Hat tip to Greazzer (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/greazzer.html), I sent the injectors to be rebuilt with new nozzles and he turned them around in 24 hours and I had them back in hand on the fourth day after I mailed them to him (helps that I’m in Charleston SC and he’s just up the road a couple hours). Thanks for that great service!

Here are the key tips and tricks:

1. Hot engine. Drive the car until the engine is hot (I drove my car for about 45 minutes, performing a few Italian tune-ups, AC blasting on full, to get that engine nice and hot), and then plug in the block heater as soon as you park in the work area. Hotter is better. The block heater kept the engine temp up over 80 deg C for quite awhile, and I think it only dropped down to about 60 deg C by the end of the ordeal, about nine hours later. Ambient temps were about 70 – 75 deg F.

Is it a good idea to start the engine during the process, between plugs, to keep the temperature up? Maybe, maybe not. Consider that at idle, more carbon may be deposited in the pre-chamber and on the plugs, so that may work against you. You would also need to leave the injectors installed.

2. Liberal use of penetrating oil. I used PB Blaster – it was what I had. Immediately after the intake manifold is off, begin applying that oil. I had ordered some Kano Aero Kroil, but it didn’t arrive in time.

3. Use a torque wrench for removal set to 40 or 45 Nm, gently work them back and forth to slowly work them out. The Beru glow plug literature says that 45 Nm is the maximum torque specified for removing the OM606 glow plugs (12mm threads). Can one use more force? I did a destructive test on two old Beru star-marked plugs (MB dealer parts), and found one broke at 74 Nm and the next at 81 Nm, using MY torque wrench, which may or may not be calibrated. Stick with 45 Nm on YOUR wrench, unless you have a couple plugs to destroy to “calibrate” the breaking torque of your plugs on your wrench. Some have reported plugs breaking off at much lower torque values. Are Bosch or other brands weaker? Good question, I couldn’t find any data to support that, but there are reports of the Bosch plugs rounding off easily. The faces of the hex portion are bigger on the Beru plugs. Unlike in the OM616/617/601/602/603 engines, Beru seems to have a better reputation than Bosch plugs in the OM606.

4. Remove the injectors and apply penetrating oil to the inside of the plugs! The first two plugs came out with much effort, over about three hours, and the rest either would not move or moved very little (I did not try #6 yet at this point, I decided to leave it until the end because access is blocked by the oil filter canister and I wanted to make sure I did not break off that plug). I decided to remove the injectors and apply penetrating oil inside the pre-chambers to loosen the carbon on the inside. This helped! Every thirty minutes or so, I refreshed the penetrating oil both inside and out for all the remaining old plugs, using over half a can of PB Blaster during the job. I made a spray tube extension with an angle at the end to direct the spray to the side of the pre-chamber with the glow plug. I used an old piece of plastic vacuum tubing, heated with a propane torch until it was just soft and I could make a nice bend, and then cut off the tube just past the bend.

Result: the #6 plug had about six hours of soaking with PB Blaster. It was amazing how easily it came out. It came out SO much easier than all the rest. I should have STARTED the job by removing the injectors and spraying the penetrating oil inside the pre-chambers as well as outside. I highly recommend this if you run into the least bit of trouble getting the plugs to move. Note that you WILL need to change the engine oil after contaminating it with the penetrating oil and all the carbon that you wash out of the pre-chamber.

The blow-by-blow description of the job…

I was able to remove the intake manifold in about 20 minutes. I started with the glow plug that presented easiest access, #5, using a 12mm deep well socket and a torque wrench set at 30 Nm. I had only applied penetrating oil to the outside portions of each plug. My engine harness was replaced with a new dealer harness about five years ago, but I had a LOT of trouble getting the connectors to pop off the glow plug terminals. Only one or two came off by hand, the rest required that I lever them off from the back side, using a tool meant for pulling interior paneling plastic pins / rivets. The tool has a flat face that is forked, so I could fit that around the glow plug pin and apply pressure to a good bit of the surface of the electrical connector. Very strange! I will apply some dielectric grease during assembly this time.

First up: Plug #5. Very gently applying force to slowly creep up on the torque setting of 30 Nm, the plug would only turn a couple of degrees. After the first turn CCW, I turned it back CW, and then repeated. After going back and forth a few times, the plug seemed to be getting tighter! Yikes! Danger Danger! When any nut or bolt gets tighter as you work it back and forth, it is a BAD sign, and the risk of breaking something goes up. If this happens, stop, take a break, apply more penetrating oil, try a different plug, keep your cool and be patient. Strangely, after leaving that plug alone for just ten or fifteen minutes, it was looser when I went back to it. I continued on with the CCW and CW bit, slowly getting more movement in the CCW direction, until the plug started tightening up again! I took another break, came back and found it loose again. I’m not sure what was going on here, but patience and gentle persuasion were the order of the day and those two qualities served me well.

#2 was the second plug I worked on, and it was moving about like #5. #4 didn’t seem to want to move at all, neither #3. I tried #1, and had it moving gently back and forth, when as I was tightening it back in a little… “CRACK!” and the wrench jumped. I was convinced I had broken the plug, and my heart sank. I removed the wrench, cursed a bit. I regretted not making some phone calls during the work week to see if any local shops had the special tool set for drilling out a broken plug. I sent emails to my MB buddies lamenting my woe. Applied sack cloth and ashes. Said a prayer that I wouldn’t break any more plugs.

I went back to #5 and #2, and slowly I was able to get all the threaded portions out, limiting myself to just 30 Nm. This took about three hours. Once the threaded portions of the plugs were out, more penetrating oil and grab the plugs with vice grips and twist and pull, twist and pull, until both plugs were out. Both were Beru star-marked. The inner body of each plug, the last 0.5 to 0.75 inches, was black with soot. Obviously the plugs had not fully seated and carbon was able to pack in around the body.

I decided to measure the resistance of #1, to see if the filament was broken; maybe I could leave it in place until later? It measured about 1 ohm, which is good. I decided to see how completely broken it was to see if it might hold together for a bit, and to my surprise it was NOT broken and indeed was still very tight and stuck. Oh happy day! However, it would not move at all with 30 Nm of force.

I went back to #4. The Beru guide offers that applying 12v to heat the plug for 3 or 4 minutes might help to loosen it, so I tried that. 3 minutes of current using a jumper cable from the battery positive, but that didn’t help at all.

Time for plan B!

At this point I did the destructive testing referenced above, and thenceforth I used 45 Nm as the maximum torque for removing the remaining plugs. I also decided to remove all the injectors and soak the inside ends of each plug with penetrating oil. I had thought of this method earlier but never heard of anyone else trying it. Can’t hurt, right! I think it made a big difference, and I recommend it.

The remaining plugs went a bit faster, but it was still slow patient back-n-forth. I found that once I had the plug turning in the CCW direction without reaching the 45 Nm limit, it was best to just keep loosening the plug, as going CW a bit was liable to increase the amount of force required to loosen again. Almost all of the plugs came out with a crack-crack-crack as the carbon bound them up. Once I had them most of the way out on the threads, I would soak outside again and then turn the plug all the way back in, hit the inside end with penetrating oil and then bring the plug back out until the thread were free, hit the inside again with penetrating oil and then start the twist and pull. The restricted access plugs were not easy, I used a pair of line-man’s pliers to grab the notch at the end of the plug, lever against the edge of the head above the plug, while twisting the plug with a box-end wrench.

The last plug was #6, trapped behind the oil filter housing. I had to loosen the engine harness plastic support at that end and move it up a bit to get as much room as possible. To my happy surprise, that plug came out with minimal force. Soaking the inside (pre-chamber) end of the plug for about six hours with penetrating oil made the key difference, I think. #6 showed the same carbon packing on the body as the rest of the plugs, and none had any hint of never-seize.

Breaking Torque Values gleaned from comments in the various posts: “Mark in MA” measured the torque needed on an old glow plug to break it between threads and hex at about 80-90Nm.

“Pimpernell” read that the breaking point of the plugs is in the range of 40-45 Nm. (Beru literature says 45 Nm).

“Notfarnow” broke one off at ~40Nm. Beru from dealer with starmark. [Ed: was his torque wrench out of calibration? 40 Ft lbs set instead of Nm?]

TimFreeh did a little destructive testing with old glow plugs: Beru branded OEM plugs. Holding the glowplug in vice supported on the case of the plug (the area between the threads and the heating element) the head of the glow plug will shear off at 85-90NM.

Replacement / Installation

1. Ream the carbon out of the holes.
2. Apply anti-seize to the glow plug body and threads.
3. Torque to 22 Nm or 25 Nm. The FSM says nothing about applying anti-seize to the plug body or threads, and lists 22 Nm as the torque. Beru advises to coat the plugs with their anti-seize, and lists 25 Nm torque. Some advise going a little higher, 27 Nm, to ensure that the plug shoulder seats well and blocks carbon from building up inside the head and packing in the body of the plug.

Tools and materials

6 Beru glow plugs
1 intake manifold gasket
~1.2 meters of injector return line hose
6 injector heat shields
[Optional: plastic clips and rubber shims for the fuel lines; rubber and plastic piping for the crank-case breather tube “octopus”; O-rings for all those pesky fuel line connections; new copper crush washers, O-rings and springs for rebuilding the delivery valves “while you are there”.]
Penetrating oil
Anti-seize. I found a Permetex brand aluminum based product at AutoZone which is rated to stand up to 1600 deg F.
“Special Tools”
12mm deep well socket.
Torque wrench that includes range of 20 – 70 Nm (I have two wrenches to cover this).
Special socket for the injectors.
Hazet 4760-1 glow plug swivel socket (from Peach Parts) allows access to the plugs with restricted access: #1, #3, and #6.
Glow plug hole reamer
“Regular Tools”
5mm hex
?? Torx (intake manifold screws)
10mm socket
Vice Grips
Lineman’s pliers
Wire brush

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Last edited by Maxbumpo; 03-22-2016 at 08:26 AM.
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  #2  
Old 03-22-2016, 02:09 PM
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I have removed four so far on my 97 w210 om606.
Number two died and trying to remove it would see it only turn from the ten oclock to the two oclock position , despite a good soaking over the course of two hours with a 50/50 mix of power steering fluid and acetone applied with a plastic pipette - so I put the engine back together for a week or so.

Next go at it and it eventually squeaked and squealed its way out over the course of two hours. Once out it was super clean and strangely one side around an inch in length from the tip and around 1/16 wide was polished clean as the glow plug body appears bowed.

Fast forward a month and three more down , three five and six. Number three just turns and comes out with fingers as does number six, both of these were covered in copper grease so obviously have been replaced before.
At this stage I am very happy as there is no need to remove oil filter canister.

Number five very tight so acetone and power steering fluid mix applied, three hours later it came out and like number two it squealed all the way out requiring pliers to pull it out of head once threads were clear .Again body appears bowed with same shiny area.

Ok so I started of with engine hot and it eventually cooled as the work progressed until it was cold, im in the Uk and temperature outside was 9 deg C .
I did not turn number five back and forth like I did on number two to get it out, following advice from a friend who had just done his I would attempt to undo it bit by bit as in 1/8th or 1/16th of a turn at a time every four to five minutes and this seemed to work very well.

So to sum up my experience had been that the two I had trouble removing seemed bowed and they were clean , I have no issues with carbon build up or any such problems .
Engine had 112k on diesel when I purchased it and I have now got to 138k using biodiesel.
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  #3  
Old 03-22-2016, 07:22 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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Is Beru the best glowplug. I just bought a reamer from PP and am looking forward to cleaning those holes and installing new glowplugs.

It it typical to wait until a glowplug goes bad to replace it or do some of the folks here do preventive replacements?

Yes, I'm still a novice.
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:22 PM
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Excellent write-up!

Excellent write-up! Must save it to read in detail. Thanks, Maxbumpo, for taking the time to write up your work. Keeping the engine warm with the block heater is a great idea that I will try "next time."

So far I have not had problems removing glow plugs in either of my OM606 engines but there's always a first time! I attribute part of the lack of problems to disabling EGR on both engines as soon as possible after purchase. It's amazing how much carbon collects on the intake surfaces due to the EGR system. Maxbumpo, does your 606 engine have a working EGR?

Clemson88, I have used both Bosch and Beru glow plugs. As was written, Beru has a larger "nut" surface for gripping. I suppose that can be seen as both "good" and "bad." Good since it affords a better grip, bad since one may be tempted to use too much force. In any case, I recommend using a good quality deep 6-point 12 mm socket. Using a 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch drive set will also limit the amount of torque you can apply. There is a "rubber" (torque-limiting) socket extension that some folks have used with an air gun to gradually work out a stuck glow plug. However, the keys seem to be (a) warm/hot engine, (b) lubrication, and (c) patience. Maxbumpo's idea to pull the injectors and squirt penetrating oil inside is novel—kudos to him! If you do this, plan ahead and have new heat shields (crush washers) on hand for the injectors. Anti-seize on the new glow plugs is a great idea; I have done this for years on anything "steel threaded into aluminum."

Jeremy
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Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
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Old 03-24-2016, 09:51 AM
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Great write up and helpful to avoid the pitfall of breaking a GP off during this process. Time, Lube, lube and more lube, block heater and patience makes a world of difference.

There's an ongoing thread over on BW of a fellow OM606 owner that is in the midst of going through a broken or stuck GP issue. Hopefully it will have a happy ending, but he's got the head off because of it.
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  #6  
Old 03-24-2016, 10:05 AM
Banned
 
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Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 11,216
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemson88 View Post
Is Beru the best glowplug. I just bought a reamer from PP and am looking forward to cleaning those holes and installing new glowplugs.

It it typical to wait until a glowplug goes bad to replace it or do some of the folks here do preventive replacements?

Yes, I'm still a novice.
I have not heard of changing a full set of working glow plugs, but when one or two go bad change them all. I have pulled and reamed GP hole while doing a valve adjustment as preventive maintenance, not sure if it helps but can't hurt. This is in regards to a 617.
P.S. Thanks for the write up, I have been looking at picking up a W124, and always have he'd that issue in the back of my mind.
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:36 PM
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Only the 1995 E300 (W124) has the OM606 with the long glow plugs that get stuck. The dual overhead cams caused the glow plug to be relocated and the only way it could reach the prechamber is to make it really long. Note this engine is used in the 4 years of diesel W210s from 1996 to 1999. These too have the long plugs that get stuck.

The earlier 124s (1987 to 1993) all used the 603 or 602 with stubby plugs. No problem getting those out.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Last edited by jay_bob; 04-02-2016 at 06:39 PM. Reason: Clarify response
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  #8  
Old 04-02-2016, 09:34 AM
Gene
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 1,102
Correct. Great write up. It took me three days of repeated heating/cooling cycles, Thrust and Freeze off, maybe 6 total work hours of slowly working the stuck plugs out.

Heating cooling cycles help TONS, as does liberal application of penetrating oil.
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Old 04-02-2016, 11:53 AM
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and . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Only the 1995 E300 has the OM606 with the long glow plugs that get stuck. The dual overhead cams caused the glow plug to be relocated and the only way it could reach the prechamber is to make it really long.

The earlier 124s all used the 603 or 602 with stubby plugs. No problem getting those out.
The 1996-97 E300Ds use the same 606NA engine (but they are 210s, of course, not 124s). I suspect even the later 606 turbo engines have similar glow plug sticking problems.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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Old 04-02-2016, 03:51 PM
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Had dealer do it!

They quoted me $400+/-. I think and it was worth every penny! Took them 2-3 days when they snapped off one of the plugs and had to drill it out.

I have no doubt I could have done it but having read all the problems others had out there, I wasn't in the mood for a challenge.

Mine had maybe 175k miles with EGR in place so it was really sooted up.

It is not cost/time effective to DIY IMHO. Take it to a dealer and qualify for your next 2 years of roadside assistance to boot!
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  #11  
Old 04-02-2016, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
The 1996-97 E300Ds use the same 606NA engine (but they are 210s, of course, not 124s). I suspect even the later 606 turbo engines have similar glow plug sticking problems.

Jeremy
You are correct. My response was intended for the post immediately above mine, where the concern was with sticking glow plugs on 124s with 603 or 602 engines.

I updated my post for clarity.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #12  
Old 04-04-2016, 02:24 PM
Diesel Preferred
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Thanks for the compliment!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Maxbumpo, does your 606 engine have a working EGR?
No, it has been disabled for a few years. However, my wife has been driving the car for the last six months or so, mostly around town. I'm sure that has contributed to carbon build-up.
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/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #13  
Old 04-04-2016, 02:30 PM
Diesel Preferred
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chronometers View Post
It is not cost/time effective to DIY IMHO. Take it to a dealer and qualify for your next 2 years of roadside assistance to boot!
I would only have a dealer or independent garage do this job if they have the special tools to deal with the broken plug, and the quoted price includes removing any they break off, or you have an agreement on the increased cost if they break a plug.

I also would advise that if one picks the DIY route, ask around in advance to see if any local garages have the special tools, so you know where to go if you do break off a plug.
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #14  
Old 04-04-2016, 04:43 PM
funola's Avatar
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Maxbumpo, what was actually binding the glow plugs? Is it carbon after the glow plug flare seal (in the combustion area) or before the flare (in the glow plug threads)? Or both? If before the flare in the threads, it would suggest the flare was not sealing properly and allowed carbon to pack the threads.
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chronometers View Post
They quoted me $400+/-. I think and it was worth every penny! Took them 2-3 days when they snapped off one of the plugs and had to drill it out.

I have no doubt I could have done it but having read all the problems others had out there, I wasn't in the mood for a challenge.

Mine had maybe 175k miles with EGR in place so it was really sooted up.

It is not cost/time effective to DIY IMHO. Take it to a dealer and qualify for your next 2 years of roadside assistance to boot!
I did the same thing with the ML320 after hearing the horror stories. Mine needed all 6 changed plus the controller because they changed the plug design which also changes the controller.

Oh and BTW the roadside assistance rules have changed. It is pretty much worthless and you may not even qualify anymore.

Mercedes Roadside assistance

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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