2013 Bluetec OM642 purchase - Thoughts? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

stcbenz83 · #1 01-20-2019, 10:28 AM

Greetings All!

First I can not believe how long it has been since I've posted & been on here! By some miracle, I remembered my login information

I still have my Euro 240D, though it is a garage queen still and, needs a lot of attention (brake system needs complete overhaul) which, unfortunately I cannot give because of time constraints with my career so, until that time, she sits under a protective cover in my garage waiting...

Anyway, the reason for my post, I am FINALLY in a position to purchase a newer Mercedes. The one I have wanted and had my eye on for years is the 2013 W212 as it is the last year of that body style pre-facelift (which i don't care for personally), it has the updated interior and, it is the last year of the V6 in the E350's (Already have a MB 4 banger, not looking for 2

).

So, I found one that fits my requirements (2013 E350 Bluetec, Polar white with 65k) and, wanted to see what everyone's thoughts are on this particular model and of course, reliability. I am hoping since this is basically one of the last years for the OM642's (again, in the W212) that most of the common major issues have been corrected.

However, from what I am seeing, the Oil cooler could still be a potential problem?
-Wanted to get everyone's thoughts and personal experiences to see what I should look for prior to purchase?
-What should I have a reputable private shop look for during a pre-purchase inspection that was common issues on this drivetrain?
-Should I purchase the aftermarket warranty? Or, are most common issues relatively a DIY for someone who is slightly mechanically inclined?
-Is black death something to look out for with this engine?
-Should I for some reason avoid purchasing? Seems like from the forum, beside 2-3 same major issues, these are a great choice.

Very excited to be finally be able to get my hands on this car. Also, excited to be back on the forum with all my fellow diesel Mercedes fans

!

-

sixto · #2 01-20-2019, 11:57 AM

If an extended warranty is available, go for it.

Will this car be serviced by you or a shop? You can overhaul 240D brakes in the time it takes to change 642 oil cooler o-rings. Probably in the time it takes to change a 642 alternator.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon

GregMN · #3 01-20-2019, 01:02 PM

I have two 642's.
The 2007 (185k) has not had the oil cooler seals start leaking yet.
The 2012 (90k) had the oil cooler replaced by the previous owner.

If the oil cooler seals have been replaced, then that should not be an issue. If not, allow for $2500 to $4000 for a shop to do the repair.

My opinion: You can look to an independent for service. I would only have a pre-purchase inspection done at a dealer.

If you are going to DIY on a modern MB, you should get a computer and software that can communicate with the car's computer systems. My iCarsoft can view the systems. An Xentry can talk to them.

Talk to your dealer about the availability of the exhaust system filters and catalysts. My dealer's shop foreman advised that I not purchase that engine model due to that. I did it anyway. If they become a problem, I will buy a custom tune and remove them ( if I haven't already....)

jay_bob · #4 01-20-2019, 01:06 PM

I own 3 vehicles with OM642 engines.
2008 ML I changed the oil cooler seals myself in 2016 and it hasn’t leaked a drop since.
2008 E320 oil cooler seals changed by Indy before I bought it in spring of 2018.
2014 ML350 bought CPO from dealer in spring of 2017.

The platform is really solid, despite those on here who hate it. Yes the engine is tightly packaged but it is not as difficult to work on as some make it out to be.

The oil cooler seal leak was corrected sometime between MY2010 and MY2012 from the best of my recollection and what I have read.

Where is the vehicle being sold from? A MB dealer, CarMax, or a BHPH lot? This makes a lot of difference.
MB dealer has the highest standard that they will use to resell or pass on a trade in. If it is being offered by an MB dealer (CPO or not) then you at least have the ability to see the vehicle’s history; ask them to produce the VMI for this vehicle, and ask them to take it into their shop and go over it with you and the mechanic, to include a thorough scan on Xentry.

CarMax has some standards, does inspections, and usually takes trades from individuals. But you have no dealer support to fall back on.

BHPH lots typically acquire cars from auction. You never know what you’re getting, and if a 5 year old car is coming through auction then you should be very suspicious.

There really are only a couple of things to watch on this engine.
- Oil change intervals need to be strictly observed or the engine can sludge up. Fortunately all the scheduled service history is stored in the vehicle computer. You will need Xentry (diagnostic computer) to see this.
- The engine in MY2013 does have an SCR filter that requires periodic addition of DPF. There have been some reports of SCR hardware failing (AdBlue tank cracking/leaking, pumps/heaters failing, etc). I have one of these version engines and I just keep an eye on the AdBlue level and refill it every few months. You can buy the jug in a box of DEF at WalMart/Sams for much less than the dealer charges. Don’t let the level get critically low, or you will get the dreaded start counter, that once you reach zero, you are not starting it no matter what (thanks EPA for this lovely idea).
- Oil cooler seals should not be a problem with a MY2013.
- Black Death was a problem with the first generation OM648 inline 6 CDI engines. I have not heard or experienced any similar problems with the OM642.

Car is fairly easy to do DIY on.
Oil change, especially with the (factory recommended) vacuum extraction through the dipstick is very easy. Oil filter on top so you don’t even need to go underneath. You’ll need a fluid extractor and a special socket to remove the oil filter cap.
Air filter is not too bad, you have to remove the air boxes on either side of the engine, a little fussy, but not bad overall.
Fuel filter, it is right in the center of the V, have to remove the intake tube, again not very hard to do, you do need Oetiker pliers to remove the hose clamps.

You will want to obtain a good set of internal and external Torx sockets/bits. Do not use Harbor Freight, get good ones or you will strip fasteners in a hurry. Nearly every bolt on this engine is an External Torx, mostly E10 and E12.

I would also recommend getting a bootleg Xentry computer so you can diagnose things yourself. These are available on eBay for between $500 and $1000. Try to find a US based seller, not one shipping direct from Hong Kong.

The car is a server room on wheels, everything is controlled and recorded by the on board computers, so if something goes wrong, the computer will (usually) tell you exactly what is wrong and it even points to the procedure for how to fix it.

Unfortunately the bootleg computers cannot reflash firmware or do software updates. You will need the dealer for this. If you are buying this from a dealer, be sure to have them run a software update check. There are some major driveabllility updates for the engine/transmission that address harsh shifting especially when cold. If not buying from the dealer, take it to the dealer and pay for an hour of shop time and have them run the update check. It is well worth it.

Extended warranties are a good idea but read the entire agreement to see what they exclude. They like to hide gotchas in the fine print that end up making these less worthwhile than they seem.

GregMN · #5 01-20-2019, 01:12 PM

Ya. OK. What he said.....

nulu · #6 01-20-2019, 01:54 PM

Oil cooler seals replaced at those miles a plus they were updated to purple seals, and starting to see vacuum pumps leaking from internal seal at parting line, high mileage over 100k timing chain every once in a while stretched but easy tech wise to change, about 10-15 hours for chain, 1 hour for vacuum pump and 10 -15 hours for oil cooler depending on model

83w126 · #7 01-20-2019, 02:06 PM

I believe its about $1800 to replace the transmission conductor plate on the newer transmissions, and has to be done by the dealer. I also read, although I can't find it now, about one having a sudden loud knock at about 180k miles and even after extensive trial and error and parts replacement the owner and several shops couldn't find out what was wrong.

jay_bob · #8 01-20-2019, 03:58 PM

Yes the VGS (conductor plate) was an issue on my 2008 E320.

One of the sensors went out. I had dealer change it. However if I had a lift and more free time I would have attempted self repair as seen on YouTube.

I have heard that the first gen 722.9s had the sensor issues and that was another thing that got fixed on gen 2. Pretty sure the MY2013 uses the Gen 2 722.9 (requires the special ‘blue’ fluid instead of the special ‘red’ fluid). I know my 2014 ML350 is so.

stcbenz83 · #9 01-20-2019, 05:29 PM

Thank you all for the wonderful information!

Sixto- good to see your still a member, learned a lot from you over the years! Besides brake overhaul, the 240 also is due for a timing chain rebuild (mileage and age based), needs additional front suspension work (control arm bushings, already replaced ball joints, shocks, etc.), injector pump is due for a rebuild (wont shut off with key, traced the culprit to the shut off on top of the injector pump) interior is in serious need of R&R and, unfortunately its just to slow to keep up with all the highway driving that has to be done around this area. All in all, im saving it for a rainy day as I would never part with it, it has way to much sentimental value.

Jay, thank you so much for your detailed insight, very much appreciate it.
the car is being bought from a dealer though, not a Mercedes dealer so i will definitely head your advice and take it to the local Mercedes-Benz dealer for a pre-purchase. Im glad to know that oil change history is in the cars computer, I definitely will not be changing it every 10K as suggested as that is way to long of an interval IMHO. I would definitely do all the basic maintenance myself (air filters, oil changes, fuel filters, etc.) however, for major (or what I would consider) repairs, such as the oil cooler and timing chain, I would more than likely take to a repair shop. Not that I am afraid by any means, I just would not have the time nor means to have my primary vehicle out of service at this point in life.

I plan on keeping this Mercedes for a very long time so, I expect there to be some maintenance and repairs that I will inevitably have to complete however, in a perfect world, I would prefer to not have any major repairs or unexpected costs for the next 100K (dreaming, right?

)

That said, what should I look for/ ask about in an aftermarket warranty that would include such repairs as the timing chain and oil cooler?

Graham · #10 01-20-2019, 05:34 PM

Read all you can about the Bluetec emission system before you buy one. They are not like the MB diesels we love.

I don't know that particular car, but I just traded my 2014 GLK Bluetec with just 50k km. Reason - many reports of failures of NOx sensors, DPFs, Adlue injection components and even total engine failures caused by excessive heat during DPF regeneration. Most of those items are not covered by even the new car warranty, except for first few years. Don't assume anything is covered without first checking!

If I was to buy another diesel it would have to be a pre-Bluetec CDI.

Some owners have illegally "tuned" the Bluetecs. Probably only way to keep them running without excessive costs. ("tuning" is a euphemism for gutting the exhaust emission system)

R-3350 · #11 01-20-2019, 07:51 PM

i personally would advise to stay away from the 642 in general. i help run a shop and we see some of these every so often. they always have some strange issue. two have come in with the black death bad enough to torch a hole through the head past the injector face and require a new long block. plenty of issues with the timing chain and guides requiring replacement due to excessive wear before 200K but that was mostly up to MY2010. of course the Adblue system is problematic the tank heaters like to die and they wont cover it under warranty since its not the entire emissions system. and then theres the swirl flaps and the oil cooler seals.

KrustyKustom · #12 01-20-2019, 10:20 PM

I have owned three of the OM642s and currently own two of them still. My 2012 in a Sprinter was trouble free aside from a Nox sensor. My 2011 GL350 has had more issues but strangely it has been such a good tow vehicle it's been worth the issues. Timing Chain, alternator, both Nox sensors, DEF heater, oil cooler seals. But...I now have 140k and last 70k miles have been problem free. I keep oil change intervals down to 4k to 5k, let it warm a little before driving. Gets incredible mileage.

I may scoop up a 2016 before low mileage examples are hard to find.

Most of these vehicles do not get the maintenance they need or do not get problems fixed as they arise which eventually turns into bigger problems.

I run mine without any of the decorative covers and have had great luck here in hot Texas.

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ROLLGUY · #13 01-20-2019, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

Read all you can about the Bluetec emission system before you buy one. They are not like the MB diesels we love.

I don't know that particular car, but I just traded my 2014 GLK Bluetec with just 50k km. Reason - many reports of failures of NOx sensors, DPFs, Adlue injection components and even total engine failures caused by excessive heat during DPF regeneration. Most of those items are not covered by even the new car warranty, except for first few years. Don't assume anything is covered without first checking!

If I was to buy another diesel it would have to be a pre-Bluetec CDI.

Some owners have illegally "tuned" the Bluetecs. Probably only way to keep them running without excessive costs. ("tuning" is a euphemism for gutting the exhaust emission system)

After reading a two hour long post on MB World about the sludging problem with these engines,
https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/585587-another-2010-ml350-bluetec-engine-seized.html I would agree. I personally would stay away from anything 2009 and newer. However, if you can be sure that no sludge is present, and keep the drain intervals at around 5k, use the proper ESP oil, you probably will be okay. You definitely don't want catastrophic engine failure caused by sludge from using the wrong oil, and extended drain intervals. My opinion is that any "aftermarket" extended warranty is not worth the paper it is written on. Their job is to find a way to NOT pay a claim. It will be even harder if you do your own oil changes.

Photos of an OM642 oil pan and bottom of engine.

pawoSD · #14 01-20-2019, 10:47 PM

I've had my bluetec GLK for 6 months now and its been perfect, no issues in almost 6,500 miles! I've added adblue once (full fill, cost about $23 from dealer) Its the OM651 engine so not quite the same, but has been great so far.

All cars break. I had plenty of expensive repairs on my older MB's....so far the newer ones have proven to be much more reliable (and way more fun/capable to drive)

KrustyKustom · #15 01-20-2019, 10:48 PM

The other issues contributing to sludging is using b20 fuel which MB frowns on for regular use. Many states only have B20 mandated. I only use B5, keep the intervals low on changes and my pan is clean as can be at 140k verified by running a scope into oil pan drain plug.

I guess from my experience I would say the newer diesels are still good engines but have to be cared for with special attention. If you are a "pour it and floor it" type go for a gasser....but now all they have with those is small displacement turbo charged motors that run spooled up, no thanks I will keep my low end torque along with maintenance.

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