Axle boots

[tangofox007]

One of the rear axle CV boots on my '82 300D (185k miles) just cracked and started to leak. I caught it almost immediately, so I am hopeful that no significant damage occurred. The axles are original.

Questions:

If I elect to reboot the axles, is it possible to adequately clean and inspect the joint for damage/wear without removing the "cans?"

What is the best lubricant to use for the joint? It appears that the lube typically furnished with boot kits is of inadequate quantity for the MB axle.

[jabstick420]

do this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nrYcQsYIzk

you can use a funnel if you don't have/don't want the flex gun

[Clemson88]

Originally Posted by jabstick420

do this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nrYcQsYIzk

you can use a funnel if you don't have/don't want the flex gun

What's the report on those boots and that system of installation? Who sells the boots?

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by Clemson88

Who sells the boots?

www.astoria2000.net

The boot kits are also available through a number of parts vendors.

[tangofox007]

Great video. Answered a couple of questions. Thanks.

I am wondering if it would be wise to flush the joint with solvent and finish up with brake cleaner. I really don't like the idea of leaving 35 year-old lube/contamination behind. But I would not want to leave any solvent behind, either.

[Mxfrank]

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Great video. Answered a couple of questions. Thanks.

I am wondering if it would be wise to flush the joint with solvent and finish up with brake cleaner. I really don't like the idea of leaving 35 year-old lube/contamination behind. But I would not want to leave any solvent behind, either.

I wouldn't recommend this. I did it to an axle, and it ended up failing after about 50K miles. The problem is that you can't really get in there to clean. Not only do you do a poor job of removing the old lube, you end up with a combination of dirt, lube and solvent in the can. Then there's no way to squeeze the new lube into the bearings, so you are dependent on random mechanical action to move the lube into place. If your axle was filled with oil, just drain it off. If it was greased, mechanically remove what you can reach. Then install the new lube and be done with it.

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

I wouldn't recommend this. I did it to an axle, and it ended up failing after about 50K miles.

And there was an identifiable connection between the failure and the flush?

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

Not only do you do a poor job of removing the old lube, you end up with a combination of dirt, lube and solvent in the can.

The original lube was gear oil. Perhaps you are making recommendations not relevant to the subject vehicle.
Whatever vehicle you are dealing with, if your flushing procedure ADDS dirt to the equation, you might want to rethink your technique.

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

If your axle was filled with oil, just drain it off.

If the oil will pour off (and it will), so will whatever solvent is used to flush the joint.
Finish up with a non-residue solvent like brake cleaner, blow out with compressed air, and there won't be anything worth considering left behind.

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

Then there's no way to squeeze the new lube into the bearings, so you are dependent on random mechanical action to move the lube into place.

Anyone with two hands can generate all the "random mechanical action" required.

[Graham]

My 85 300D has done about 270k miles. The boots show some cracking, but no leaks.

I was 'thinking' about tackling the job, but at close to 78, maybe a bit too much of a job for me

The video is great and I am sure I could replace the boots. But quite a bit of work needed lying on back under car to get the axles out. Good write-up here:
W123 A How to, replacing rear axles.

Anyone have an idea of what a shop would charge to either re-boot or install new axles?

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by Graham

Anyone have an idea of what a shop would charge to either re-boot or install new axles?

For starters, you can spend anywhere from $50 to $500+ for one new axle. I would guess 3-4 hours labor to R&R.

[Diesel911]

First indentify what type of axle you have.

With the Stock type boots which are thick and cannot be stretched you need to take the axle apart an remove one if the Cans. That is if you have a homkinetic axle which has a similar Can on each end.

If you have an annular axle you can easily change to the stock type boots. You take apart the end that the is nearest the differential (it will have bolts going through it).

Either the Astoria Flexx Boots or the Dorman Universal Boots can be used with the clamps that come with their respective kits.

Both the Astoria and Dorman kits come with CV Grease. I have experience only with the Dorman Boots and the grease packet in the kit is not enough so you would need to buy more grease.
I got my Dorman Boots in a larger kit that had 12 boots because it was cheaper that way and there is always a chance you are going to damage a boot during installation. However, individul boot kits and the 12 boot kits are sold at the local Autoparts Stores.

I have not read that the Astoria Boots can be bought locally. But that was my choice.

Grease or Oil? Your choice.
The famous axle rebuilder in Colarado uses grease unless you request Oil.

There is at least 3 long threads on how to and what to use on changing Axle Boots.

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

First indentify what type of axle you have.

I have the original homokinetic axles with crimped cans on both ends.

[Diesel911]

These are my Homokinetic Axles with Dorman Universal Boots.

[Graham]

Would it be possible to install the Astoria type boots on homokinetic axles without disconnecting the axle at the diff end? (Assume the Astoria tool was available to make it easier. )

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by Graham

Would it be possible to install the Astoria type boots on homokinetic axles without disconnecting the axle at the diff end?

In theory, yes. I suspect that it might be necessary to lower the differential in order to get clearance for the tool. You basically install the boot on the tool small-end first,with the large end folded back. Then flop it over once it's on the axle. Adding lube with the axle installed would pose its own challenges. (I speak from watching videos, not personal experience. If you missed the video, see the link in post #7.)

[yuke]

I have 2 questions:

1. How much does funnel cost?
2. How much does gun cost?

I rebooted mine a while back with speedi boots that have the little screws that bolt the split boot together while on car. I could not find the perfect size boot but I made it fit and they are still holding up today yet many thousands mies later.