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  #31  
Old 08-06-2017, 03:35 PM
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I bought an Astro Pneumatic cone tool and found I had to remove plastic from the ID in order to get it to fit over the Cans on the Mercedes.

Try to get some idea of the diameter of the Cans before you purchase a Cone type tool so yo know it is going to fit over the can.

If you remember how to do the math you can measure the circumference of the can and work out the diameter.

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  #32  
Old 08-06-2017, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
In the UK they use CVJ instead of just CV. They also call boots gaiters!

Here is your search with CVJ insread of CV:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=cv+boot+cone&rmvSB=true&_osacat=6000&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xcvj+boot+cone.TRS0&_nkw=cvj+boot+cone&_sacat=6000

Better yet Sealey CVJ cone! (This brings up their boots too.)
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=cvj+boot+cone&_osacat=6000&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsealey+cvj+cone.TRS0&_nkw=sealey+cvj+cone&_sacat=0

Do Dorman or anyone else sell a cone plus boots in North America?
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85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Last edited by Graham; 08-06-2017 at 04:06 PM.
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  #33  
Old 08-06-2017, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post

Try to get some idea of the diameter of the Cans before you purchase a Cone type tool so yo know it is going to fit over the can.
On my '82 300D, the can diameter is 3.9" and the rim created by the crimp is 4.3". The length of the can is also a factor. It's a lot longer (deeper) than a typical CV joint.
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Last edited by tangofox007; 08-06-2017 at 04:49 PM.
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  #34  
Old 08-06-2017, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
On my '82 300D, the can diameter is 3.9" and the rim created by the crimp is 4.3". The length of the can is also a factor. It's a lot longer (deeper) than a typical CV joint.
Good point. Sealey say that maximum joint diameter is 105mm (4.13") for cone and 110mm (4.33") for pneumatic & mechanical. Scaling off picture, it seems straight part of cone is slightly less than diameter. Maybe 4"?
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  #35  
Old 08-06-2017, 07:14 PM
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Ok, I went out and measured the cans on my 85 300D. They are original. Diameter of the crimp is 104mm, say 105mm max or 4.13". If the straight part of the cone was about 4" it would be fine.
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  #36  
Old 08-06-2017, 07:19 PM
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Thumbs up CV / CVJ Boot Tools

GREAT info here, especially the links .

THANX, All .
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  #37  
Old 08-06-2017, 10:14 PM
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Even though I already have the boot gun, it is nice to know that the cone is cheap and works as good or better. I am not sure there is enough room for the gun to fit over the outer joint with the shaft still on the car (on an M B of course), whereas the cone might just barely fit. Although not having to remove the shaft(s) from the diff to install the boot(s) is an advantage, proper cleaning would not be possible. If the axle was quiet and previously filled with grease and not oil, I suppose just a good wiping with a rag and a grease re-pack would suffice before re-booting. The last set I did had oil, and the best way to clean them was in a solvent tank and compressed air. It worked very well. If they had grease in them, it would have been very difficult to clean them thoroughly even with a solvent tank, unless they were disassembled. I may get a cone and just sell the boot gun......Rich
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  #38  
Old 08-06-2017, 10:32 PM
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Thumbs up Axle Boot Cone

Please let us know the specific one you use if it works out well .
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  #39  
Old 08-06-2017, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Although not having to remove the shaft(s) from the diff to install the boot(s) is an advantage, proper cleaning would not be possible.
Removing the half shafts completely just isn't that difficult. Well worth the extra effort, in my view, to get the shafts onto a work bench. Plus, if your boots are worn out, the same probably goes for the output seals on the differential. And, if your joints are oil filled, there is no way you are going to get them properly refilled with the axles on the car and in a more or less horizontal orientation.
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  #40  
Old 08-06-2017, 11:13 PM
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Unfotunately I cannot remember if I ever got the inside diameter of the cone hogged out enough to slide easly over the can. If I did I never took a picture of it.
However, the cone is not as fat as the crimped lip.
But I got it to work.
Attached Thumbnails
Axle boots-cone-1.jpg   Axle boots-cone-2.jpg  
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  #41  
Old 08-06-2017, 11:40 PM
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My thread on boot installation:
Has Anyone Used: Doorman Uni-Fit CV Boot Air Tool
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  #42  
Old 08-07-2017, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
After reading your thread and several of the others, I can now see why installing new axles is a popular option. Those expanders seem to not be quite as easy as they first seem and are quite expensive for a one-off job. The cones need to be of proper size and need a lot of force. Probably not doable with axle on car.

So now thinking of new or rebuilt axles for the 85 300D. Assuming I keep the existing axles, I would try and reboot them , then keep them as spares for either the 123 or my 72 350SL. Amazingly, the original 350SL boots look fine still after 45 years!

Will need some advice on sources of axles. PP has MB ($528), GKN/Loebro $520, DSS & OPParts about $99. Then there are Cardone rebuilts. Then annular vs Homo and again reliable sources.
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  #43  
Old 08-07-2017, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Graham View Post
Will need some advice on sources of axles. PP has MB ($528), GKN/Loebro $520, DSS & OPParts about $99. Then there are Cardone rebuilts. Then annular vs Homo and again reliable sources.
I found OE axles online for under $400. Anything new under $200 is going to be an often-problematic Chinese product. And a lot of them seem to be from the same factory sold under a number of different name brands at a wide range of prices.

Another possible option:
CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs

A new OE/OEM axle might make sense if you plan to put another 250k miles of the vehicle. I probably won't drive my 300D more than another 15K in my (or the car's) lifetime, so I am going to reboot and call it good enough. I believe that keeping my existing axles is a far better option than new Chinese parts, which would be a bit cheaper and a lot less up-front hassle.
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Last edited by tangofox007; 08-07-2017 at 01:56 PM.
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  #44  
Old 08-07-2017, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
I found OE axles online for under $400.
Another possible option:
CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs

A new OE/OEM axle might make sense if you plan to put another 250k miles of the vehicle. I probably won't drive my 300D more than another 15K in my (or the car's) lifetime, so I am going to reboot and call it good enough. I believe that keeping my existing axles is a far better option than new Chinese parts, which would be a bit cheaper and a lot less up-front hassle.
Best OE price I found, was from Skyland in Asheville, NC: https://www.oediscountparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=1233500410&make=Mercedes-Benz&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215242

Where did you find the $400 axles?

My situation is same as yours. I may have my 300D for another 10 years but it probably will only do another 20k miles.

Rebooting my existing axles is my first choice, but how to do it? Not worth buying the gun and being in Canada, impractical to rent. Cone a possibility.

Anyone know what cvj reman charge for their rebuilds?
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  #45  
Old 08-07-2017, 02:34 PM
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Rebooting my existing axles is my first choice, but how to do it? Not worth buying the gun and being in Canada, impractical to rent. Cone a possibility.
Maybe you could find a local shop that has the tool and would be willing to install the boots on the shaft. (I am thinking about that approach myself.) If they just get the boots on the shaft for you, you could take them back home and finish the rest of the job (lube, clamps) yourself.

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