I'm asking some senior members regarding the full load screw and how to adjust that since I'm now maxed out on the ALDA.

regards,
Bill

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Talk to H2O2 about that.....I think he has a OM603....

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I stand corrected re: function of rear pod on MW style IP. Not the same as my M pump. Sorry for waste of time.
John

Not a waste of time if you found out something new.

Besides, I am just glad to have another set of eyes on the thread to help/give ideas.

Thanks!

Well I made some pretty good progress this evening.

I pressure tested my IC (the water part) and found a handful of leaks that need to be addressed. Fortunately...no leaks between the air portion and the water portion!!

I swapped out my OEM intake for the modified one and reclocked my turbo.

Also found out why my car was feeling much less peppy lately...check the pics

Incase you cannot tell...my ALDA line was brittle and broke off at the fitting!!!

EDIT: My EGR blockoff "plate" is a bit more complex than Brians.

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I think the intercooler you did not use was from an Audi 5000

Yeah I know...dad took the entire CIS and intercooler off the car that the black IC came off of

Hey,

Well I water tested the IC, did some plumbling, and dropped it in for a test run. Had a few other things to do (new oil pan/tidying up some leaks) so got those done as well.

Right now I have a Aux water pump (w126 body and like) that I am using to move water. I have no radiator yet so I just have the water cycle through the pump and back to the IC for now (just to leak check system, etc.)

It seems to work pretty well...I ripped up a local long hill and heat soaked the IC in no time...defintely have to get that radiator on there. Also ripped one of my hoses open later on in the drive (manifold to IC) most likely due to stress from no mounts for the IC yet. I figure once I get it exactly how I want it I will make up some nicer tubes/connectors rather than this aircraft flex stuff I have now (2.5" flex tube with helical wire support). It has no more lag than a non-IC setp (the core is high flow) and seems to be pretty efficent at transferring heat to the water. My main goal here was to not have huge turbo spool up times yet still have a decently sized IC. (thus why I am not using my Ford SVO IC)

The next step (Sunday...my last day of freedom before back to college) is to SOMEHOW get the stock aircleaner to sit in there amass all my other stuff. If I can get it to all fit...someone should give me a thumbs up haha.


I'll snap some photos tomorrow after I get it back in the garage. Its very dirty becuase I made a little visit to the boat ramp (recently flooded) before working on the rig...

A pic of my friends car...I wasn't quite so agressive with the mud:

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Well apart from locating a suitable radiator for the system, I have it all installed!

Using some flexy aircraft tube temporarily, I took it on a test run and until the water got hot...I got some pretty serious reductions in EGT's. (Sure numbers unknown as of yet).

However when the unit is heatsoaked (its just filled with water and cycling through a closed loop with a pump) I still get about 200-250 Degrees F reduction in EGT's (from about 1400+ (I don't let it climb up there higher) down into the low 1200 range.

I am expecting I should be WELL under the EGT limit once I get a radiator on and get some nicer tubing set up. If you notice the tubing in the picture is prone to failing under higher pressures (its a fabric type material) so I wrapped one of the tubes with duct tape so that I can use the car to go find silicone joints for my metal pipe I have here.

Compared to my air/air IC that wasn't even in a good air path (simply testing) the turbo spool up time and also boost loss is much less in this particular IC. However I still haven't found out what this thing came out of...

And not sure if anyone noticed but I AM USING THE STOCK AIRCLEANER! It was a bit of a trick and I docked off the aircleaner inlet port (gonna re-route it later anyway). That means I am using the stock oil seperator and air cleaner mount. I had to toss the big huge elbow tube becuase it was so lengthy that it was interfering with my IC placement (not to mention it doesn't work so well with my non-stock turbo).

The Results:

-Boost dropped 1/2-3/4 max psi with the IC in place. This is considered PHENOMONAL compared to the Audi 5000 IC I was using.

-Boost responce time is still excellent

-Final EGT reduction as of yet unknown...still trying to locate a radiator.

So far I am already pleased with the results. It turns out that the core flows so well and is so huge that I do not need to up the boost to account for massive drop across the IC.

I am going to track down some silicone boots tomorrow after class and hopefully mount up some steel piping. Additionally I would like to remove the intake port on the IC and mount it a tad lower on the side so that the tube does not have to make a 90 degree bend. Doing this would also allow me to stand the IC straight up in the engine bay.

Also I need to shorten the output pipe of the IC to allow for everything to mate up better.

I think once I get those things done I am going to really like the way it mounts in the engine bay. I sorta "hashed" it together becuase I have to drive the car to class tomorrow and you just can't tell exactly how you want it until its already in there

Some Specs:
Minimimum post turbo tube size is 2.5"
Maximum post turbo tube size is 3"
Pre-Turbo tube size is 3" ABS pipe (bridges the air-cleaner to the turbo inlet)
Input of IC is 3"
Output of IC is 2.5"
Turbo Inlet is 2.5"
Turbo Outlet is 2.5"

Note: I know the use of ABS is bad but since it is only PRE turbo and most likely only temporary, it should hold up and seal just fine until I can bend up some pipe

Modifications to the car's body...NONE! The only two parts substantially changed are the air cleaner and the intake manifold.
Enjoy the pictures.

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Damn! That thing is bigger than I thought. That means it won't fit on my Kalifornistani emissions car because thats where the air filter is.

Bummer. I will have to figure some other intercooling method.

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green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png

If you are serious about modifying your engine, you might be wise to toss all the CA emissions crap and pick yourself up some manifolds.

Technically you could put the air filter on the other side and bridge it over with some 3+" pipe/tube. After all, there is TONS of space over on that side of the engine bay (assuming we are talking w126 body here).

The CA setup in its stock form is a bit of a clogged throat...not to mention that the air filters are more expensive.

Also...I am not sure how common all aluminium IC's are without buying them new/spending big bucks.

You can buy a nice water/air intercooler online and have it custom fabbed..but you will pay for it.

My radiator is on its way down from portland...is about 8 by 11 by 4. Should cool that IC down real nice

psssst brandon ... cryo intakes work wonders... well thats what some people have told me.. they make a box that goes around part of the intake tube before the manifold and fill it with some dry ice..

This is a daily driver....not a drag racer

No doubt dry ice would work well...but this will work better in traffic and driving about the city

I want to see how much I can get with all that crap on there first. My father works for the department of ecology/air quality and I don't want to diss him outright. I'm getting my trap oxidizer removed under the recall so I'm going to see how that works before I leave my car in an area where catalytic converters have been known to be stolen.



Not a whole lot of room there for it either unless I go with a K&N which I'm not going to do. I live in an area with a lot of dust and wind.

Mines an 85 and I'm not so sure that the air filter is more restrictive than the federal one. I think they changed the air cleaner to attempt compensate for the loss of power imposed by the emission controls. It has a lot of paper to breath through. I'll have to get a reading with a vacuum gauge.

Mabey I'll make my own with a peltier coolers stuck on it for added cooling when I want it. Just flick a switch .

__________________
green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png

Heh the only problem with the peltier coolers is that you STILL need something on the other side to radiate the heat effectivel off of.

I imagine the CA air filter is very compareable but the exhaust/turbo I think are more restrictive due to there just physically being more bends/places for stuff to go.

Atleast there is no longer anywhere to bolt a EGR on my car