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  #31  
Old 02-03-2010, 10:02 AM
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I only have the flow bench fuel curve which shows what my pump flows at various rpms's with the pump set at maximum on the speed control lever. I do not know what the rack positions the governor was indicating at the various speeds. I also do not know the plunger lift specifications, nor do I know the ramp rate or number of degrees it takes for said lift to occur. I currently have a flow bench of my own, but have no intentions of going to the trouble to take my pump off and measure everything just for the sake of knowledge. Besides I would have to build the adapters to run an M-pump on my stand as I don't have the correct drives. I typicly do P series Bosch and VE pumps. I feel confident this pump will be more than enough fuel to blow my head gasket if it was really pushed to the limits. Maybe someday I will test that theory.

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  #32  
Old 02-03-2010, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTA-Cummins View Post
Myna told me this "M-model pump with 7mm plungers is good for about 500 engine hp in 6 cylinder engine so in 5 cylinder it is should be good for about 400 engine hp." My pump is capable of 100mm^3/stroke at 5000rpm. According to my engineering design info assumeing you could harness all that energy at that speed you can make about 93.6hp/cyl. That means at most a OM617 5cyl could crank out 468hp at the flywheel. Therefore I think 400engine hp is probably a very reasonable estimate for a max effort setup.
90hp/cyl is what muuris is reporting as the max as well. Remember though you start approaching crank shear type torque with those kinds of numbers.
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  #33  
Old 02-03-2010, 12:45 PM
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My final goal for my car is a nice 200rwhp and 300ftlbs of torque. I hope to achieve that with my S200 turbo and a water to air intercooler. I have no idea when that might happen though. I see alot about some other non Myna custom pumps out floating around. Has anyone done any dynoing with any of those yet?
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  #34  
Old 02-03-2010, 01:01 PM
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thanks for the info.
I did not mention that you take out your IP just for this information.
I thought you might have the data coming with your pump.

Tom
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  #35  
Old 02-03-2010, 01:28 PM
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Tom,
I did not mean to imply that you were asking for me to disassemble my pump. I was just saying that at some point I might check into that info and I have the capability to do that. I am curious as to has anyone actually tried the OEM Bosch 8mm plungers and barrels in an MW pump? If so what were the results.
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  #36  
Old 02-03-2010, 01:50 PM
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8mm no, 10mm yes. 8mm is all but impossible to find in the states. Check out the youtube video and let me know if you dont grin ear to ear.

http://superturbodiesel.com/std/10mm-element-thread-t-716.html
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  #37  
Old 02-03-2010, 04:18 PM
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So is this the correct part# for a 8mm MW plunger? Bosch 1 148 415 058, 8mm Barrel / Plunger assembly
Of course it sounds like my 7mm Myna is more than capable of fueling enough to put the rods out the side of the bloack according to the results of that Green Wagon, so I guess its a mute point. I could however swap some 8mm ones into my MW on my other W123 car for better performance.
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  #38  
Old 02-04-2010, 08:02 AM
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The green wagon broke at "only" 350hp.
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  #39  
Old 02-04-2010, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FredKrueger View Post
The green wagon broke at "only" 350hp.
Was that 350 engine hp or rear wheel hp? I am guessing engine. Anybody know how much boost they were running when the rod let go? I would prefer to stop before I push mine that far.
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  #40  
Old 02-04-2010, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FredKrueger View Post
The green wagon broke at "only" 350hp.
How fast was the engine tacked up when it let go?

I hear they like to spin up diesels like they were F1 engines.

Several factors can contribute to a rod failure that have nothing to do with power produced from combustion. With higher RPM comes increased piston velocity, and the increased piston velocity puts more load on the crank, mains, rod bolts, rod cap, and rod beam.

It is common to have to lower the redline RPM of an engine in order to keep from over stressing the aforementioned parts when the power out put is increased dramatically. The same engine can be of low power and spin like a turbine, or very hi powered but limited to low RPM to keep from over stressing the block and hardware.
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  #41  
Old 03-01-2010, 09:55 PM
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KTA- Is your pump similar to this one?
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  #42  
Old 03-10-2010, 06:47 PM
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Newb here, and I'm pretty sure about this, but by increasing the engine power, you are increasing the stress on the engine, therefore drastically decreasing the reliability of the engine, correct? What about the transmission? An auto would overheat, right?
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  #43  
Old 03-11-2010, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
Newb here, and I'm pretty sure about this, but by increasing the engine power, you are increasing the stress on the engine, therefore drastically decreasing the reliability of the engine, correct? What about the transmission? An auto would overheat, right?
Of course by increasing power you are putting more stress on the engine, but on the 617 or 60X this is really not an issue to worry about. The engines can handle it without problems to a certain level, and not many folks on this side of the pond have gotten to those levels.

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