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  #61  
Old 07-21-2013, 12:23 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boise ID
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I was thinking the same if I can save it I will if not getting a 98 or 99. I just have not found them for less then 2k complete without having 250000 miles on the motor. I have done some searching but nothing cheaper then 2500.
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Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Depends if your cylinder bores are still in spec or not. If not... there's no point putting more money into it. 606.962's can be had for under $2k complete.



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  #62  
Old 07-21-2013, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95e300dwez View Post
I was thinking the same if I can save it I will if not getting a 98 or 99. I just have not found them for less then 2k complete without having 250000 miles on the motor. I have done some searching but nothing cheaper then 2500.
Foreign Auto Salvage in KY has one with 160kmi for $1850.

East Bay Auto Parts in MI has one with 221kmi for $1800.

Auto & Truck Processors of Lake County in FL has one with 234kmi for $1500.


Lower miles may cost a bit more... Auto Imports USA in CA has one with 124kmi for $2250. Modern Auto Parts in MO has one with 107kmi for $2500.


WARNING: Before shelling out more money for "low miles" engines, get the VIN of the donor vehicle, and pay for a CarFax / AutoCheck report on the VIN. That will help prove if the mileage is accurate or not.


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  #63  
Old 07-22-2013, 06:34 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boise ID
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Thanks for the help I messaged a couple of these companies about there motors. Hopefully can strike some sort of deal if my motor is no good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Foreign Auto Salvage in KY has one with 160kmi for $1850.

East Bay Auto Parts in MI has one with 221kmi for $1800.

Auto & Truck Processors of Lake County in FL has one with 234kmi for $1500.


Lower miles may cost a bit more... Auto Imports USA in CA has one with 124kmi for $2250. Modern Auto Parts in MO has one with 107kmi for $2500.


WARNING: Before shelling out more money for "low miles" engines, get the VIN of the donor vehicle, and pay for a CarFax / AutoCheck report on the VIN. That will help prove if the mileage is accurate or not.


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  #64  
Old 08-22-2013, 03:02 PM
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Motor status

Motor is torn down looks great for 250,000 miles. The cylinder bore looks real nice still have cross hatches on them and no visual damage. I need to get a dial bore guage to check taper and roundness. I am going to do valve seals , gaskets,bearings and have a line on used 98 pistons and rods and new rings.
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  #65  
Old 08-22-2013, 11:24 PM
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That's good news, it sounds like the pistons from the 98 will get you solid.
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  #66  
Old 12-24-2013, 02:40 PM
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@ 95e300dwez:

Have I seen right, that you drive 15lbs of boost without an intercooler? Do you know, how hot your intake air temperatures after turbo are? I suppose, them will be about 100°C (370 °K) and will cook your engine.

OM606 Turbo with 177hp, always had an intercooler.
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  #67  
Old 12-24-2013, 02:45 PM
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Nothing a little water injection can't fix.
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  #68  
Old 12-26-2013, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashcool View Post
@ 95e300dwez:

Have I seen right, that you drive 15lbs of boost without an intercooler? Do you know, how hot your intake air temperatures after turbo are? I suppose, them will be about 100°C (370 °K) and will cook your engine.

OM606 Turbo with 177hp, always had an intercooler.
boost temperature is relative to pressure - the OE turbo on the 606 is considered tiny for the engine and requires a great cool down to get the air dense enough. Bigger turbo provides more volume for the same boost - hence the air is already cool to start with.

The issue here looks like the engine was not built for this and got fried.
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  #69  
Old 12-27-2013, 11:05 AM
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I never monitored intake temps just egts. The hx35 is a good daily driver turbo for the 606 full boost by 3500. My get never got over 975 degree f on egts. Intake temps effect egt but they never got high enough to worry about. The engine was fine after inspection on tear down it was the turbo leaking oil out the exhaust side causing smoke out the exhaust. I am getting new gaskets and valve seals and going to put it back together with the 98 piston and rods I have caught the HP bug. I have a k29 turbo I am going to use for a compound setup to get less black smoke and going to crank up my pump to max output. I can share pictures of pistons and rods from tear down to show almost no wear. The rod bearings look real good considering how much more power it was making.
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  #70  
Old 12-27-2013, 01:05 PM
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So your engine is fine, and the smoke was a result of the leaking turbo?

I'm asking, because i plan to build the same as you did, but only with an intercooler. I don't need as much power as you, but I don't want to kill my engine

Greetings from Europe

Flashcool
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  #71  
Old 12-27-2013, 01:46 PM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashcool View Post
So your engine is fine, and the smoke was a result of the leaking turbo?

I'm asking, because i plan to build the same as you did, but only with an intercooler. I don't need as much power as you, but I don't want to kill my engine

Greetings from Europe

Flashcool
I would do it again with a 95 especially if you don't need over 300 HP and make sure you get a good turbo. The turbo was the problem it was leaking oil out the exhaust side seal and causing the smoke.

Rings and pistons actually came out looking cleaner then the 98 pistons that where covered in carbon build up. The intercooler would help with egts but like I said they never got over 975 and I put it through the ringer.
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  #72  
Old 01-05-2014, 08:02 AM
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Hello 95e300dwez

I'm converting my OM606 N/A from my 95 124merc to turbo.

I have got already this 606 turbo parts:

intake manifold
exhaust manifold with turbo
prechambers + nozzles
nozzles will get a rebuild
pistons + rings + rods
oil filter housing

Bearings I will buy new for OM606 LA engine.

I have also got the camshafts from turbo, but i will leave my N/A camschafts.

Do I need anything else?

Thanks for help
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  #73  
Old 01-09-2014, 01:57 PM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boise ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashcool View Post
Hello 95e300dwez

I'm converting my OM606 N/A from my 95 124merc to turbo.

I have got already this 606 turbo parts:

intake manifold
exhaust manifold with turbo
prechambers + nozzles
nozzles will get a rebuild
pistons + rings + rods
oil filter housing

Bearings I will buy new for OM606 LA engine.

I have also got the camshafts from turbo, but i will leave my N/A camschafts.

Do I need anything else?

Thanks for help

I only have the turbo piston and rods and will be setting the new rings to the turbo spec. The rest of your parts are really not critical if you ask me after looking at the inside of my motor and comparing it to the 98 I took the piston and rods out of. The injectors have a higher pop pressure but I don't think there is a different prechamber for the turbo motors.
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  #74  
Old 01-10-2014, 04:26 PM
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Prechambers have a different MB part number.

Where did you get your oil feed for turbo from and where is it going after turbo?

And what oil pan are you using?

Thanks a lot!
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  #75  
Old 01-10-2014, 11:26 PM
Drive itlike you stole it
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boise ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashcool View Post
Prechambers have a different MB part number.

Where did you get your oil feed for turbo from and where is it going after turbo?

And what oil pan are you using?

Thanks a lot!
Oil feed I just tapped the oil pressure output to npt and put a T fitting one side for feed other for pressure gauge. The return I drilled in the side of the block not much higher then needed about a inch of the pan gasket. I will post some pictures.

I am using the stock pan might get rid of the coolant passage that enters on the passenger side. I will also take some photos of the 2 oil pumps the 95 is all metal and beefier looking then the 98.

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