OM603: Vacuum pump explosion, bearing intact! Injection Pump Timing device wrecked - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Tymbrymi · #46 08-28-2008, 09:49 AM

Major bummer!!

Hope that the metal slush and chunks don't cause you any problems later on in life... you've certainly taken good care of and put a lot of time and effort into the engine already!!

To all those thinking of an electric vacuum pump... Even if the MB one lasts *only* 150k that is still pretty impressive. Also, your electric pump + time + new plumbing, etc will easily cost as much as a replacement mechanical pump. The main problem IMO is you're going to have to have a pretty large pump in order for the power brakes to work properly, and if you blow a fuse or your alternator dies, you've lost power brakes...

Keep in mind that I'm complaining about electrical stuff, and I drive a CDI

bgkast · #47 08-28-2008, 11:06 AM

An electric replacement may cost the same, but it will not take out the engine when it goes!

gsxr · #48 08-28-2008, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tymbrymi

The main problem IMO is you're going to have to have a pretty large pump in order for the power brakes to work properly, and if you blow a fuse or your alternator dies, you've lost power brakes...

Exactly. Assuming the cost is not insane, the main concern is loss of power brakes should the electric pump fail, or fuse blow.

dquance · #49 08-28-2008, 11:59 PM

Dave: Perhaps you missed my earlier post.
I expoxied 2 ceramic magnets inside the oil pan, just by removing the extension and cleaning the bottom of the pan.
I have checked it since, and both magnets are still in place.

Doug Quance

gsxr · #50 08-29-2008, 12:09 PM

Doug, what type of epoxy did you use? And did you roughen up the surface to get better adhesion to the smooth aluminum?

FYI, I found the Pierburg pumps have date codes stamped on them, which can help determine the age of the pump. This can at least let you know if it has been replaced before or not. And, also how to determine if the pump is OE or OEM. See photos below...

dquance · #51 08-29-2008, 05:53 PM

Gsxr: i do not remember the brand of epoxy, it was the 5 minute variety.
You should rough up the surface for the epoxy to get a better bite.
I also oriented the magnets so they were attracted to each other.
I positioned them to be close to the pump pickup.
It is a simple matter to remove the pan extension and check them once in a while when changing the oil. You do have to be careful with the torque on the extension bolts.

Doug Q

Cr from Texas · #52 08-29-2008, 06:28 PM

Interesting thread and good pictures to illustrate the issue.

My original 617 VP started making a noise right at 200k miles. Having followed this forum, I suspected the vacuum pump. Parked the car waiting for the new one. With the new one, the noise is gone.
I did not want to trust a rebuild. Any one want the old one send me a PM and pay shipping?

compress ignite · #53 08-30-2008, 02:50 AM

GSXR,

Was the Vacuum Pump that had the arms for the rocker shaft break a Mercedes
Pump (OE) or a Pierburg (OEM) ?

gsxr · #54 08-30-2008, 10:21 AM

It was an OE pump from the dealership, complete with MB Star and MB part number, made by Pierburg. It was manufactured and installed in 1995, so it was 13 years old at the time of death (and had 141kmi on it). It is the pump on the left in the photo above...

gsxr · #55 09-13-2008, 10:47 PM

Hey everyone,

The car is back together and running ok so far. I cleaned things as best I could and installed a new timing device. I wiped the timing chain down with a rag to remove any bits that may have been sticking to it. I cleaned out the sump as well as I could through the side opening, with rags, solvents, and a magnet. I probably got 98% of the debris out.

I filled the sump with new dino Delvac 1300 and ran the car for approx 5 hours / 150 miles as a flush, then drained that out. Although I did not put a magnet inside the sump, I did put a very strong magnet externally on the drain plug. There was a small amount of metal clinging to the plug when I removed it. I cut open the filter and did find quite a few tiny metal particles, visible as shiny specks (they don't show up well in the photo, unfortunately). I installed a new Knecht filter, 2 gallons of M-1 "TDT" 5W-40 CI-4, and the car has been running fine for the last 500+ miles. I left the magnet on the drain plug for now.

I will change the oil in 6,500 miles (at 300k) and at that time I will probably pull the side sump again, for a visual inspection internally. And I will cut open the oil filter again as well. The latest photos are at this URL, near the bottom of the list.

sixto · #56 09-13-2008, 11:00 PM

When's the next dyno run?

Sixto
87 300D

gsxr · #57 09-13-2008, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

When's the next dyno run?

The Idaho Turbo Diesel guys said there might be another session this fall... stay tuned!!

babymog · #58 09-14-2008, 03:43 PM

Seems that any parts that are pulled into the oil pick-up would affect the oil pump, but then be filtered out.

gsxr · #59 09-15-2008, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

Seems that any parts that are pulled into the oil pick-up would affect the oil pump, but then be filtered out.

Correct. The screen on the pump pickup should keep out anything big (but I really think I removed anything that big already). The little bitty stuff, assuming it doesn't damage the pump, should end up in the filter. The more miles I put on the car, the less nervous I'll be, lol... so far so good, though.

babymog · #60 09-18-2008, 03:07 PM

"if this problem exists on models manufactured prior to this date, which do not have a second drilling in the oil spray nozzle for the oil supply of the piston vacuum pump, or for performing work which requires taking off the vacuum pump, remove the centering sleeve and install in modified seal for improving the oil supply." - PR 07.1.1064 /6

What is this centering sleeve and does it exist in any M/Y 1987 603 engines? The "modified seal" is the gasket with the dam across the bottom.