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  #1  
Old 12-17-2000, 03:15 AM
280c
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I want to pull the engine in my 280c. It is a M110 engine. Will it come out of there with the hood still on? Does anyone ever pull the Engine and transmission as a unit? What is the best way to pull the engine and any other tips would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 12-17-2000, 09:58 AM
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No!! hood must be removed. Yes it's easy to remove the trans/engine as assembly. ONLY 4/5/6 cylinder engines(upto 1984) will work with the old trans.
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  #3  
Old 12-17-2000, 12:31 PM
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Engine removal...

Yes, I was able to remove the engine and transmission as a unit on my '82 300TD without removing the hood. Just put the springs on the tightest position, so the hood is held as high as possible, and there's more than enough room. I had the engine and transmission in and out at least 15 times while I was doind my engine swap, and didn't have to remove the hood. There was at least 8" of clearance between the top of the engine hoist and the grille.
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  #4  
Old 12-17-2000, 02:22 PM
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Richard, unfortunately he really would like to know if the motor will come out of his car with the hood on. Yes, the answer is No. Unless, that is, you want to drop the engine and subframe out the bottom, which we have done on the very similar 107 chassis.
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
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  #5  
Old 12-17-2000, 05:20 PM
Wm. Lewallen
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Why the fuss about removing the hood? There are only four screws holding it on but it will require two people to do it. I always remove the hood when I remove an engine. I have worked on some cars where some previous mechanic(?) has cut the radiator shroud in order to get the engine out. Of course he has to weld the piece back in.
Bill Lewallen Lex.Ky.
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  #6  
Old 12-17-2000, 05:24 PM
280c
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The fuss is that I am out of space and I want to...

The fuss is that I am out of space and I want to do this outside. It rains here alot and it will cause flash rust on everything. I need to be able to close the hood with the engine inside my garage.

Signed,
Mr. No Real Shop to work in.
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  #7  
Old 12-17-2000, 05:27 PM
280c
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Anymore info on Dropping out the bottom would be appreciated

What is the procedure for that? Do the mounts stay with the engine, I assume? I suppose the transmission comes out the bottom anyhow.
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  #8  
Old 12-17-2000, 05:35 PM
Wm. Lewallen
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Another thought about hood removal; You can remove the grill. There are only four screws holding it on. Then you can stand the hood straight up and have plenty of room. You will also be able to close the hood if it rains.
Bill Lewallen Lexington,Ky.
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  #9  
Old 12-17-2000, 05:42 PM
280c
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Great, How do you get it to go straight up?

That is a great solution.
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  #10  
Old 12-17-2000, 06:16 PM
Wm. Lewallen
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To get the hood to go straight up, you pull the levers on each hinge down and raise the hood to a vertical position.
Bill Lewallen Lex. Ky.
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  #11  
Old 12-17-2000, 07:16 PM
Wm. Lewallen
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I need the year your 280C was made or the chassis No. The 114/115 hoods would not go straight up. Let us know what year your car is. If it is the 123 chassis it should go straight up. Don't be ashamed. Sign your name to your email.
Bill Lewallen Lex.Ky.
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2000, 07:19 PM
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I presume the car in question is a 114 chassis. That along with 116 and 107 plus all those going before have limited opening hoods.

The 123 chassis in 1977 was the first to go vertical. I guess all new chassis since have done the same.
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Continental Imports
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  #13  
Old 12-17-2000, 07:21 PM
Wm. Lewallen
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To Tx Bill,
I believe your '79 300SD is the 116.120 chassis and maybe the hood is not supposed to go all the way vertical.
Bill Lewallen Lex.Ky.
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2000, 09:54 PM
dlswnfrd
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Up or Off ?

280c, if this is of any help cosidering that which you already have recieved. For the W124030 chassis. The hood remains attached but in the vertical up position. If you are removing eng and trans as a unit, the whole car must be raised or a hole must be mid-line of the car to allow the end of the trans to go low enough for the engine to obtain enough front highth to clear the radiator. After all electrical and fuel connections have been disconnected and stod away, the exhaust is removed at the two exhaust manifolds, both intake and exhaust manifolds remain on the engine. The cooling fan and belts are removed so the radiator remains in position but the hoses are removed. Protect the radiater with a protective cover. The drive line is diconnected at the front coupling or joint. Disconnect all motor/trans suports. Hook on at the engine lifting spots and have at it I theeeenk! Boy now wasn't that long winded. I'm glad you didn't ask for the time for I would have told you how to make a watch. Didn't you want to know something about the hood? Oh well Happy Trails Beep Beep from Houston. I knew I forgot something, Drain the fluids. Someone else will bring up some things

Donald
just an old windbag
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2000, 11:02 PM
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- Remove the hood.
- Remove the engine WITH transmission.
- Put the hood back on (don't scratch the paint).
- Fix stuff.
- Installation is reverse of removal.

Oh, and when you pull the tranny. Be careful with the drive shaft. It's in two sections and if you don't fully disconnect it from the tranny, you run the risk of splitting it. If the splines are not reconnected exactly in the same positions, you will have to get it balanced.

While you have it out, inspect your engine mounts, tranny mount, the rubber disk that connects the drive shaft to the tranny and the "center support" on the driveshaft itself. These rubber parts deteriorate with age. Also check out the neat mini-shocks that dampen engine vibration. If you have to replace all that, it should be about 200-300$, but it's more than worth the effort and hell, you've already got the engine out of the way.

-CTH
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