The flashers do not work on my 88 260E California with the lights on or off. The high-beam works how ever. It’s no big deal but I need them to work for inspections. I did the following test and no luck yet:

1. I did the search on this and couldn’t find anything new.
2. If the high-beam works, the path should be clear from the bulbs all the way to the switch (high-beams, flashers, turn-signal, windshield wiper combination switch), is this right?
3. To test the switch for high-beams I Ohmed out pins 1 to 2, push lever forward for high-beams = good tone and connectivity. Is this right?
4. To test the switch for Flashers I Ohmed out pins 11 to 2, pull lever backward for Flashers = good tone and connectivity. Is this right?
5. Should I be checking for the amount of Ohms too? I just got the DMM on the diode setting and listening for tones only.
6. Check the combination relay by switching it with known working relay from my 190E, it works on the 190 but the relay from the 190 didn’t do anything for this vehicle. So the relay is good.
7. The windshield wiper unit works correctly.
8. There is no “lamp fault” indicated on the dash when I pull the lever backward for Flashers. Also the high-beam indicator doesn’t flash when I do this.
9. Anything else I’m missing here?


Thanks in Advance,
Thai GI sends...

__________________
GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal

It could easily be the stalk switch.

__________________
Benzmac:
Donnie Drummonds
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 11 YRS

1. Do you know what would be considered out of tolerance resistance if any between 11 to 2 for the Flashers part of this switch?
2. Can this be repaired by cleaning the contacts? (Not sure how/what is in there).
3. Or the unit must be replaced?

Thai GI sends...

__________________
GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal

1. It was the stalk switch the resistance was much more on the Flashers option of the switch and it also fluctuated.
2. I took it out to see what if anything I can do, it was a riveted unit so not much. Trying to get to the contacts was a hard job because it’s at an angle you can’t get into. Also I resoldered both ends of the switch, after all this still no luck!
3. Went to my dealer and drop $107 to get a new one and this did it! I ohmed out the new one just to see what kind of resistance it would give, It was the same (.2W) for both high-beam and flasher positions. There were some updates to the switch as I compared them; the wires are now supported by a metal bracket coming from the switch and there is an extra short black wire with a female bayonet type plug coming from pin #12 (must be an option my car don’t have).

Thanks for the help,
Thai GI sends…

__________________
GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal