A friend of mine did not have the special sending unit adapater or a "T", but he did have a tap and die set, so he just ran it straight into the oil filter housing...

For return line, he tapped the valve cover.

Brian

I thought I'd jump back in here as we've decided to add the bypass filtration to all of our cars, the 300SD included. My oil pressure sending unit needed to be replaced anyway, so I've been trying to find the proper fitting. Amsoil has a fitting for Japanese cars which has the right thread for me (12MM x 1.5MM). I have ordered it and HOPE it's right. I have been able to find parts that were close, but not quite the right thread. I went to the auto parts store and looked at Trailer Brake Metric Tees (see following link for a description, etc.) -

Stant catalog of fittings

On the return line, Lightman, I'll have to take a look. I have also heard of people tapping into the oil filler cap. That certainly seems like the easiest, but least elegant, way to do it. But tapping into the valve cover could allow it to be unobtrusive.

I'll let you know how things go.

__________________
1987 300SDL 265,000 mi.
1982 300SD 325,000 mi. (and holding)
1956 Packard Clipper 150,000 mi.

Just fyi, I installed an oilguard bypass filtration system on my TDI, and love it. Its a bit more compact than the amsoil unit, and cheaper for replacement elements as well.
www.oilguard.com

We tapped the valve cover for the return line, and used one of the pressure ports for the feed line. Very clean install, took about an hour.

While the TDI is much much cleaner and full burn than the MB idi diesels, I was still totally surprised to see that after 2000 miles, my oil was still completely golden and see-thru. I was wondering for a second if I was really driving a diesel! The other day in my E300, I got the oil changed at the dealer, and by the time I got home(20 mins) the oil was so black you could hardly see thru it.

__________________
2004 Ram 2500 Cummins HO
2000 Jetta TDI
1999 E300 (sold)

Hope everyone doesn't mind if I resurrect an old thread. Has anybody figured out a viable way to do this on the Mercedes canister-type filters? I also have a 300SD that I would like to add a bypass filter to. I do realize that the canister filter elements have minimal bypass filtration capability but I don't feel that it is doing as well as a separate bypass filter. I plan to use a single bypass element that ties into the pressurized side of the oil supply.

I have done this on other diesels and, I must say, the difference is amazing. I can change the oil on my Ford Superduty truck after 4,000 miles or so and the oil is still translucent. This wasn't the case before I put the filter on. Oil analysis also supports the better filtration. I use the Baldwin B164 bypass filter element on it and they are available easily for about $8 each. I usually replace both the bypass and the full-flow filter elements each time I change the oil but I have kept the bypass filter on through up to two oil changes. For the price, I really have no problem changing both filters every oil change and plan to do the same with the Mercedes.

Anyway, the Mercedes diesel is proving to be a bit of a challenge and I haven't heard of many people adding an aftermarket bypass system on it. The few that I have heard of seem to drill and tap the aluminum filter housing. I've considered that and may still do it. I'm also considering teeing off of the hose going into the oil cooler. One concern I have with doing that is that I don't know whether the oil going into the cooler is thermostatically controlled. I'm guessing that it is. Anyone know? If it is, then the bypass filter would only be working when the oil temp was high enough to open the thermostat valve going to the cooler. I would prefer that it have a constant source of pressurized oil. Does anyone else have info on an easily accessible, constant pressurized oil source on the early 80's era Mercedes diesels? I would appreciate any help I could get.

With MB engines last 400Kmi+ gas and diesel there doesn't seem to be much reason to add bypass filtration. Some have done it, tapping the oil filter housing and valve cover as supply and return lines. Its not a big deal. I experimented and installed a bypass system on my VW TDI and ran the oil 53,000 miles before changing it.

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Brian Toscano

Basically the simplest way to get the oil feed is to locate a npt pressure port(which you may or may not have, my tdi has one), or just get the adapter with the appropriate thread size for the oil sending unit. These are common with most oil bypass kits, and divert a small amount of flow to the bypass filter, and the rest to the full flow. Worst case scenario would be tapping and running a hose from the oil filter housing.

Mount/bracket as you like and find space.

For the return line there are a few options. Tapping and running a hose to the valve cover is an option - very clean and uses the shortest amount of hose possible. Some have used hollow drain plugs with no complaints, but I wouldn't recommend it. There is a new drain plug/bypass return system that seems to be the way to go for the plug and play type. Get on the tdiclub and go to fuels/lubricants and search for bypass or the author LanduytG, and there are plenty of detailed pics.

__________________
2004 Ram 2500 Cummins HO
2000 Jetta TDI
1999 E300 (sold)

on the 5cyl 300 turbo-diesel, cant you just put this inline with the oil cooler? hmmmm... keep MB system in tack and just add on a TP, Amesoil orrrr????

Metric fittings found here?

What I have done for an oil pressure source on my 300 SDL's and am about to use on my E300TD (for a pre/post luber) is have a machinist fab a T fitting of steel.

Secure the proper thread diameter and pitch from an oil pressure sender. The male portion of the T goes into the pressure sender's former location in the filter housing. The pressure sender threads into the female portion of the T. The pressure source becomes the third opening of the T.

I've been using this system for my prelubers for years.

Since you are attempting to prolong engine life with the bypass filter, why not utilize a pre/post luber? It is much better to start an engine wet as opposed to dry. The system may be viewed at preluber.com - unless they have changed the site.

Gulfcoast is here and this is how they look. BIG...