Today I bought a 40 inch brake line with 3/8 inch as shown on the website: https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-line/p/brakelines-steel-tubing-pax-340/216085_0_0.

I should have done more thorough research on the issue of the present brake line attached to ASR pump below the Master Cylinder.

First, the metric 3/8-24 Inverted Flare Thread Tube Nut male that goes inside the asr pump (female thread) fits perfectly. However, I noticed for the first time a difference between my original brake line and the inverted flare I purchased. I should have known, because Sugar Bear mentioned Bubble flare brake line earlier in his post. Stupid me! After brainstorming and researching the issue, I found out that my original brake line fitting is bubble flare. Upon further researching this issue, I realized, even though the brake line is correct in diameter, inverted flare thread will not work, due to fitting size and lack of pressure and improper or lack of tight fitting to cause the brake line to leak the brake fluid. Another lesson to learn, always something else coming up and digging deeper into the issue. It seems that whenever I am working on my car on one issue, something else keeps popping up and had to resolve that first. Oh well, live and learn.

After researching the issue on the on the available options to me in regards to the brake line on the ASR pump where the brake line nut is stripped, I was hoping a brake line fitting adapter would work while keeping the original stripped flare nut intact.

I went to Advance Auto to check out the fitting adapter: Here is the part: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-pik-a-nut-brake-line-adapter-bubble-flare-m10-1.0-x-3-16-in.-x-m13-1.50-327858.1/9075623-P?searchTerm=brake+line+fitting+adapter+bubble+flare

Also, Autozone: https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-line-fitting/p/brakelines-brake-system-adapter-blf-31c/835282_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:BLH:8362369872&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0eiFv5yc9QIVAHFvBB2igw1EEAQYAiABEgK2efD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

The male thread is too large in diameter to fit inside the ASR pump.

Ideally, the perfect size for a brake line fitment adapter, in my case, would be 3/8" (3/16"?) Brake Line Adaptors 10mm x 1.0 Female Bubble 10mm x 1.0 Male Bubble. Am I correct? I could not find any brake line fitting adapter that fits, unless I am missing something here. Any ideas on that?

It seems to me at this point is to remove the old brake line connected to the ASR pump port as well as removing from the ABS control module on the other end. The total length of the original brake line is around 33 or 34 inches including the bending along the way. I could use the new 40 inch brake line that I bought and cut it down to size. In addition, I will have to get Bubble Flare Brake Line Flaring Tool Kit as shown in Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Adapters-European-Automotive-Hydraulic/dp/B083963NP5. I will make sure to do a practice run on unused portion of the brake line so I get it right!!!

In addition, get the steel tub nut as shown in Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Tube-Nuts-Metric-thread/dp/B07BN39CYG?th=1

I think I covered everything that needs to be done on the brake line issue, unless I am missing something? I am going to put off getting the ni-cop tubing as Sugar Bear suggested earlier, since I already got the 40 inch brake line to work with for now. Any comments, advice/feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks to all for reading and posting on this thread. I willl continue to follow up on my progress on this post. Stay tune for further adventures of the ongoing saga of the Brake Booster push rod loose that started it all in the first place.

If you have a line use it, don't be concerned about it not being ni-cop. As you've stated the flare types and tubing nut sizes must be exactly correct.

Did you decide on a pressure bleeder?

Keep at it and good luck!!!

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Hey Sugar Bear, great to hear from you. Yes, I already got a pressure bleeder. I got it from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077PC8K2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

That is a vacuum brake bleeder. It pulls the fluid through vs. pushing it through. I've read that air can get sucked in past the threads of the bleeder screw with the vacuum style. Don't loosen the screw any more than needed to get fluid out.

The vacuum tester is a very useful tool to have.

Pressure bleeders can be made easily with a pump type sprayer and a Benz brake fluid cap.

Good luck!!!

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I am finally back to where I left off. The upper left corner facing me where the brake booster nut is located behind the brake pedal is stripped (using 13mm socket six point, and tried to use 12 point 13mm). The other nut located below on the right side brake booster was removed.

I was researching for brake pedal assembly removal instructions so I can gain more access/room to get to that brake booster stripped nut. I do not find any information on the removal of the brake pedal.

It seems to me, at this point, is to leave the brake booster alone and reinstall all other parts back to its original place. Using the newer brake master cyclinder and put in the push rod inside the brake master cylinder. Screw with the nut on the brake booster with the push rod inside the brake master cyclinder and hopefully it would work. According to the technical article on the brake booster in the comments section falling gator (username), push rod inside the master cyclinder and connected to the brake booster. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W124/83-BRAKE-Brake_Booster_Replacement/83-BRAKE-Brake_Booster_Replacement.htm.

I think this is the option I should take, unless someone has better ideas in resolving this issue. Any comments, feedback, advice is greatly appreciated. I will follow up on my progress.

update:

As previously mentioned in my last post, I was debating myself and decided not to use the same old brake booster. Taking a chance of reinstalling the old master brake booster and not knowing for sure if the push rod will set in place with that wheel inside is not something I want to worry about. I should have got some knee pads while I was under the brake pedal to remove the nuts and the pin on the brake pedal. These things were not covered in the removal process. Live and learn. I was outside on the driver door side (on my knees) to give myself some space to remove the brake booster nuts and the pin that goes inside the brake pedal. I hurt my knee and it took long time to heal.

I did some research on alternative methods to remove that stripped nut. I used the excellent nut/bolt extractor set I bought on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X7XF9NT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details. I was abled to removed the nut that was stripped on the inside brake booster. See the pictures below. I used the 13mm inside extractor socket with 19mm (3/4 inch) outside socket short well not deep well socket. Deep well sockets will not work due to too much space and not securing the extractor socket, too much play and not being able to secure/tighten the extractor socket. Live and learn.

This extractor set is perfect due to exact measurement/size of the mm bolts/nuts removal. Did not have to worry about the length of bolt thread due to an opening hole in the middle of the socket. See the pictures I enclosed below.

After removing the last nut that was stripped (see the picture on the left nut below in red circle), I tried to pull out the brake booster. There was limited space/movement in the area to remove the brake booster. I had to unscrewed the hose that was blocking the brake booster from removing. See the pictures with the red circles below.

I will replace both 13mm nuts with new ones that goes on the inside brake booster firewall by the brake pedal.

Next step is to remove the nut on the replacement pre-charge asr below the master brake cyclinder. Also, install the replacement brake booster. Stay tune for further updates on my ongoing progress.

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I was going to upload additional pictures showing the red circle on the stripped nut and the red circle on the pipe that was blocking the brake booster removal. There was an error on uploading those two pictures. Sorry about that.

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I was abled to fixed the problems with the two pictures that gave me uploading error. Here are the two pictures with red circles. One with the twisted nut on the left. The other is with two circles on the inside brake booster area. Those two circles are the parts removed to gain more space to remove the brake booster from its firewall. Thanks to all for reading.

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Update:
The two bolts on the brake booster that goes inside the firewall by the brake pedal all line up correctly. I was abled to tighten the nut on the bottom right side facing me. However, the upper left side thread with its limited space/movement for the nut to tighten on the thread/bolt, is a pain in the butt. I tried to line up the nut correctly on the thread to turn using the long extension with the 13mm socket. There is too much blockage from getting to the thread/bolt of the brake booster, except that metal bracket that goes through the hole to gain access to the thread/bolt that I was abled to extract the stripped nut previously.

Even though I was able to extract the stripped nut earlier, due to more room inside the 13mm nut, in comparison to a smaller hole 13mm nut trying to screw on the thread of the bolt on the brake booster.

I used peachparts brake booster removal guide (https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W124/83-BRAKE-Brake_Booster_Replacement/83-BRAKE-Brake_Booster_Replacement.htm) and the picture shows both red arrows locating the brake booster bolt/thread inside the firewall. However, nothing is like that on my mercedes shows in front of the picture that is blocking from plain view of the upper left bolt/thread from accessing in order to get the nut in See the pictures below:

What is this bracket holding this thing that is blocking the way for me to access that upper left bolt/thread on the brake booster? Is there a way to remove that bracket? Or to remove that thing inside the bracket? I tried to use phillips screwdriver but both screws will not move and possibly stripped the phillips head of the screws. Anyone out there can help me out with this issue? Feedback/advice/comments is greatly appreciated. Thanks to all for reading/posting comments on this thread.

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Update:

After researching for removing stripped phillips head screws, I saw this youtube site:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpbL8h-7jSY&list=RDCMUCT7uKjjnhi3eozGVrjKfTzQ.

Interesting ways of removing stripped screws, especially using rubber band! Anyway, I was abled to removed two screws that was attached on this CARB diagnostic control mercedes 015 545 43 21 (California-only part related to emissions diagnosis) as showned in the first picture below. The previous attempt to removed the two screws as mentioned in my last post that I thought stripped both screws. I used another phillips screwdriver and it was a tight fit, thus removing both phillips screws with ease after putting in pb blaster on both screws. After that, there was definitely more room to play to get that last nut inside the brake booster! (see second and third pictures below and noticed much more room to play on the top left corner thread where the nut goes in) After putting in the pin that goes inside the brake pedal with the brake booster fork, I then finished up the remaining connectors on the brake booster, including the asr pre charged brake line, as well as the remaining brake lines on the master brake cylinder. See pictures 4 and 5 below.

I then poured brake fluid dot 4 inside the brake fluid reservoir above the master brake cylinder and filling it to the top. After starting the engine, I kept pressing the brake pedal to feel if any traction on the brakes and that did not happen. Instead the brake pedal went straight to the floor. So I kept the engine running for about 10 minutes and pressing the brake pedal off and on. Shortly thereafter, I felt traction on the brake pedal and the brake pedal stop just about 2 inches from the floor. I guessed it took some time build up pressure on the brake system. I put the car in reverse and sure enough the brake pedal stopped the car from moving after pressing the brake pedal. I guessed it took some time for the brake fluid to activate on all four wheels. It seems, so far, the brake booster, master cylinder and all the brake lines works! I checked the brake fluid level on the reservoir and it shows a decrease in the brake fluid level, not much but enough for me to put in more brake fluid dot 4 to fill it up. I also checked the brake lines around the master cyclinder for leaks and so far no leaks.

The next thing for me to do is bleeding all 4 brakes as described in the technical article: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W124/67-BRAKES-Bleeding_Brakes/67-BRAKES-Bleeding_Brakes.htm

I will continue to follow up on my progress. Stay tune and thanks to all for reading and posting comments on this thread.

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I finally got around to using the vacuum brake breeder on my Mercedes for the first time ever. Everything on the vacuum brake breeder kit works well. However, I have to make sure the vacuum pressure is really working because sometimes there is no pressure on the gauge while pressing the handle and I had to checked the hoses, the o ring inside the cup is tight and no outside air is coming through.

Starting from the right rear brake breeder screw, sure enough air bubbles came through. However, there were no consistent flow of brake fluid coming through the transparent (clear) tube, just sporadic internvals of air bubbles and some short solid brake fluid. Went to the next rear left rear brake breeder screw, same results. Went to the front left brake breeder screw, nothing, no air bubbles or brake fluid showed up. The same thing happened on the right from brake breeder screw as well. How strange!

Afterwards, I started the engine and pressed the brake pedal and good solid traction off the floor approximately 2 to 3 inches. No spongy feeling on the brake pedal. Must be due to the running the engine to build up vaccum, I guessed.

Before any of the above brake bleeding took place and because my Mercedes has ABS and ASR traction, I bled the ABS port first, then proceed the rest on the brake bleeder screws.

I was doing some research on bleeding the brakes that has ABS and ASR traction, I came across this post on the tech forum: Brake bleeder recommendation,
Brake bleeder recommendation


A fellow forum member who stated:


Some cars with ABS can NOT be bled with the vaccum method, and require pressure to bleed properly. I believe this applies to all Mercedes with ABS. There are valves in the system that require pressure to move fluid through them, vacuum won't do it. It does work on most older cars though.
Brake bleeder recommendation. gsxr username 09-15-2003, 10:48 AM on page 2, post #26.

Also, gsxr mentioned this below on page 6, 02-06-2012, 12:17 PM, post #76:


Vacuum bleeders do not work well on newer Mercedes (mid-80's & up) with ABS and definitely not with ASR (traction control). The factory manuals specifiy pressure bleeding or pumping the pedal. Vacuum won't pull the fluid past the system's internal valves. You can use vacuum bleeding on the older brake systems, but even then there is no advantage to vacuum over pressure bleeding.
Brake bleeder recommendation

Interesting comments from the above member gsxr in regarding to brake bleeding using vacuum vs. pressure bleeding, especially when my Mercedes has both ABS and ASR traction.

Since my vacuum brake bleeder is good to have for other vehicle makes and models, (I have a 1992 Toyota pickup and 2000 Kia Sephia, both vehicles will work using the vacuum brake bleeder), I am tempted to go ahead and buy the Motive Products - 0100 European Power Brake Bleeder Kit as shown in Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0?tag=best-brake-bleeder-kit-20&th=1&geniuslink=true
My reasoning is I do not feel right about the type of brake bleeding (vacuum) is appropriate for my Mercedes, since the ABS and ASR traction does not help at all, based on the research.
Hopefully, the above particular Motive Products - 0100 European Power Brake Bleeder Kit should fit on my 1994 Mercedes E320 wagon.

I will continue to update on my progress. Any comments, advice, feedback is greatly appreciated. Stay tune and thanks to all for reading and posting comments on this thread.

I earlier posted another issue concerning the ABS/ASR brake bleeding that is related to this thread: Should the engine should running or turn the ignition on while bleeding the brakes?

Using the Motive Product 0100 pressure bleeder, european style, for the first time ever works rather well. Going through the motions of right rear, left rear, right front and left front brakes caliper in order of seequences. The first three brake bleeding locations went well. Lots of dirty fluid and air bubbles were coming out. When brake bleeding the left front caliber, after loosening the bleeder screw, no brake fluid came out at all!! Brake pedal traction was a little spongy afterwards, however, the brake pedal firmly stop above about 3 inches from the brake pedal floor.

What could go wrong trying to bleed the front left brake caliper and no brake fluid coming out? Is the brake caliper going bad? What about the brake line? I am somewhat baffle by this issue. Can anyone out there tell me what is the problem? Any comments, advice, feedback is greatly appreciated.

Completely remove the bleeder and inspect it for a clog. Check the master cylinder reservoir to make absolutely certain it has fluid in BOTH the front and the rear sections, there is a wall/dam between the front and rear.

Good luck!!!

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Sugar Bear, thank you for your last post. I appreciated it.

I did a process of elimination by doing several different methods to determine why the brake fluid is not coming out of front left brake line.

I checked for brake fluid level on the reservoir above the master brake cylinder. Both sides of the wall/dam of the brake fluid reservoir are full.

I removed the brake bleeder screw/valve on the front left side brake caliper (facing left on the driver's side). I checked for blockage by blowing air inside the bleeder screw. Air came through on both sides clearly. Next, I removed the brake hose from the brake caliper to the brake line connection. Again, I blewed inside both ends of the brake hose, all clear, no blockage on the brake hose.

I proceed to use the Motive Pressure bleeder on the brake fluid reservoir above the master brake cylinder and connected with a transparent plastic hose on the brake line. No movement of brake fluid coming out of the brake line.

I removed the Motive Pressure bleeder from the brake fluid reservoir and put the cap back on top of the brake fluid reservoir.

I started the engine and wait for a minute to build up pressure on the ABS module. I pressed the brake pedal several times and good solid traction, not spongy-like feel and stopped about 3 inches above the brake pedal floor. No brake fluid came out of the front left brake line after pressing the brake pedal.

Something is blocking the brake line from getting the brake fluid to flow out. Broken Brake line? Leaking Brake Line? Air in the brake line?

Next, I will use the vacuum brake pump and connect it to the front left brake line that was disconnected from the brake hose, and see how that work. If that does not doing anything at all, that is, no brake fluid coming through the brake line, what next? Any ideas, comments and/or advice is greatly appreciated. I will continue to follow up on this mystery. Stay tune.