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  #16  
Old 02-18-2003, 10:20 PM
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Just put some grease on the tap and shavings will stick to it. Then you can flash the pan with quart or two of oil.
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  #17  
Old 02-19-2003, 04:31 PM
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I can endorse those Fumato valves. I have been very happy with mine on a variety of applications.

My concern is that getting the oil pan threads clean enough for the epoxy to stick could be challenging. Considering the extreme stripping you describe, there are probably no remaining threads of any consequence on the [softer] aluminum pan. There is a lot of potential threaded surface area to stick to in this case, but I wonder if the adaptor has thread length even approaching the unusually long drain plug on these. I suppose you can hedge your bet by packing some additional epoxy around the outside joint of the adaptor if you can get the surface clean enough, and roughed up with some sandpaper.

Perhaps if;
1) You 'tip' the car in such a manner that the residual oil is not inclined to run out.
2) Clean the pan threads carefully with brake cleaner solvent and perhaps scrub inside there with a 3M pad wrapped around a dowel or screwdriver tip. Maybe a toothbrush or test-tube bottle brush? Perhaps even better, a stiff wire brush used for cleaning 1/2 inch copper pipe fittings? Clean is good.
3) Once clean, if you have a Dremel tool (or equiv.), you could cut some small horizontal grooves or drilled holes inside the threaded tube on the pan to create something extra for the epoxy to 'bite' on.
4) Flush out any residual debris from the cleaning/cutting process by running a quart of clean oil through before filling.

Retapping would certainly be better insurance, but I also tend to place a great deal of faith in the magic that is epoxy.

Best of luck.

BTW, this problem can be easily prevented using teflon tape.
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  #18  
Old 02-20-2003, 12:29 AM
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csnow - thank you for your advice. I actually have the car jacked up in the opposite rear corner right now to drain the oil. It keeps coming out even though it had stopped draining when the car was level. I am going to try pretty much all of your suggestions. I will definately jack the car up the opposite way so that no oil gets to the plug.

I looked in the plug while it was draining and found that the threads were near gone. A testament to not using quick lube places to change the oil. I plan to take the dremel tool, another must have, lightly to the rim of the drain hole to stick to the edge of the adapter as you said and thus I spent half an hour getting the oil pan sparkling clean. I am using the adapter for the Fumoto valve which I am going to rough a bit as well. The inside of the pan is going to be roughed slightly with sandpaper and flushed afterwards. Again, metal particle paranoia. The pan luckily still has enough threading that the adapter can grab it if slightly. I am going to spend probably a good twenty minutes and twice as many q-tips to clean the threads inside. I have acetone which should do the job nicely. Thanks again for all the help. I will be attempting this all tommorow night, hopefully the problem will be fixed and I can move on to installing the Euro lights. Always have to have a project Thanks again all, the advice from those who know better than me on this forum has helped immensely. I'll provide an update once I get this all finished.
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  #19  
Old 05-17-2003, 12:45 AM
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Hey all,
It's been a couple months since I tried this. The drain valve went in, and I hit it with JB Weld. For such a hokey idea, it sure has worked out great. Not a leak, nor a chance of one as of yet, and oil changes are a hundred times easier, with no chance of this ever happening again. Thanks again all.
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  #20  
Old 05-17-2003, 12:41 PM
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With nearly an inch of engaged thread in the insert and bolt, I don't see how it could be stripped, but did you use a new copper sealing washer?

They are a one shot deal - a new one is required everytime you reinstall the plug to ensure a leak free seal, however, if you dress the old ones down on both sides by rubbing them on a piece of 280-400 paper laid on a flat surface and wetted with paint thinner until you remove the galling marks, they can be reused.

I have about a half dozen and just save the old ones. When I use my last fresh one I rework all the used examples for a fresh supply. Using this technique you can probably get at least three uses out of each copper gasket, and I've never had a leak with one of my "refurbished" gaskets.

Duke
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  #21  
Old 05-17-2003, 03:26 PM
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Duke you cheap b@5t#rd you drive a Benz but scoff at the $ 0.80 washer for the oil drain!?!

I LOVE IT you are a kindred spirit... I love getting a new frugal idea from this forum!!

P.S. i bet some of your washers are down to 0.0050" but work okay if you stack thirty or forty of them

-Tom
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  #22  
Old 05-17-2003, 04:35 PM
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You don't have to take much material off, and it takes a lot less time to dress down the washers a few thou than it takes to drive to the dealer or find some place that sells them at a reasonable price. It's the path of least resistance for me, and I see no technical reason why taking a few thou off the washer thickness will affect it's sealing ability.

Duke
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  #23  
Old 05-17-2003, 09:12 PM
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I'm with you, in case that was not totally clear

-Tom
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(Totalled)

Spaces in sig so as not to screw up the SEARCH; every time someone searches for that MB they don't want my sig!

2004 Audi A8L
'98 VW Passat 1.8T 5M
'87 Alfa Romeo Milano 2.5L 5M
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  #24  
Old 05-17-2003, 09:26 PM
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Yeah, it was clear to me. I just wanted to make sure everyone else knows that it's okay to rework the copper sealing washers for reuse.

I hate to pay two bucks for a nickel's worth of value - like the copper sealing rings for the oil pan plug or a cup of coffee at Starbucks.

If my existing supply of oil pan plug sealing washers get too thin, I can just grab a penny and...

Duke

Last edited by Duke2.6; 05-17-2003 at 09:34 PM.
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