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  #1  
Old 02-16-2003, 11:09 PM
dmorrison's Avatar
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Location: Colleyville, Texas
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Question Suspension rebuild a review and questions

Well I;m getting ready to rebuild the front end of my 82 300TD. I'm getting some clarifications from Fastlane on part descriptions and making sure I have all the correct parts. The follwoing is what I intend to do

Remove the hubs and replace the wheel bearings. Drive the old races out with a brass punch. Lightly tap all around the circumference of the race to knock it out slowly. Use the old race to install the new race with a soft mallet. I will tighten the hubs using the Mercedes method of using a dial caliper to check lash.

Replace disks. Should I use new bolts or just use locktight on the old bolts?

New calipers (actually rebuilds from O'reilly's) and pads (Mercedes). And brake hoses. Locktight on the caliper mounting bolts.

I have purchased the Sir Tool Compressor M0070 and I should get it around the 20th. I just hate working on coil springs without the correct tool. Having 4 Mercedes it will come in handy.

I will replace the following on the front suspsnsion. After completely disassembling the suspension I will rebuild--

Upper Control arms ---New.

Rebuild the sway bar bushings that attach the sway bar to the UCA

What experience does anyone have with replacing the sway bar mount bushings? Do they wear out? They are easy to do but a pain to get to.

Shocks are new so they will be re-installed

Lower Control arm, press in the inner bushing again as per the Service manual using the press I have. I was informed by my brother that I can use a ball joint press to do the majority of the rubber bushings as long as you use silicon spray and are careful not to damage the structure of the bushing assembly.
Ball joints. Using light alloy jaws in my vice. I will mount the LCA and force out the ball joint using an appropriate size socket and a Big Mallet. I will press the new ball joint in by using a method my Brother ( a mechanic, who works on Mercedes) uses in the shop he works in. Remove the rubber boot to prevent damage. Use a ball joint tool to press it in and reinstall the boot. If this doesn't work out I'll have a local shop install them.

New guide rod mounts. Rebuild the rod to LCA bushing.

New Tie rod assemblies, center drag link and steering damper.

Rebuild the Idle arm assembly as per the service manual.


Any of you who have done this, Advise and techniques would surely be appreciated. I have completely rebuilt a 65 Mustang so I am not new to this. I have an extensive tool collection and will buy the correct tool if necessary. Do you recommend a Hydraulic press for the races and ball joints? I know I could rent the ball joint press but my brother assures me that his method is pretty easy.
( I would have him help me but I'm in Texas and he's in South Carolina).

Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #2  
Old 02-17-2003, 12:17 AM
haasman's Avatar
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Dave

What a fun project. You sound well versed and ready. I have done some of the work you have listed.

The front sway bar bushings are a royal pain if the suspension is not detached, when detached or at least loose it is only a pain. They do wear out even though they are extra-large rubber bushings. Changing them makes an incredible difference in front-end ride quality and solid feel. Definitely do repalce them. Additonally where the ends of the front sway bar attaches to the the suspesnion uprights I believe there are bushng that also need to be replaced.

Additonally, carefully check the front bar for paint chips and any surface damage or cracks. Since the bar is so integral and basically buried in the car, now would be an excellent time to ensure it is in good condition.

Be sure to check the rear sway bar links. They often get nasty and loose.

>Replace disks. Should I use new bolts or just use locktight on the old bolts?<
-They are attached to the hub so you can leave them. Just inspect.

Be sure and change your powersteering pump filter and ideally the fluid. Sometimes this makes a big difference in steering feel.

How is the steering gear box? Are you familiar with its adjustments and tolerances?

Renewing the suspension is a great project and the results are well worth the effort.

Haasman
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  #3  
Old 02-17-2003, 11:25 AM
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"Remove the hubs and replace the wheel bearings. Drive the old races out with a brass punch. Lightly tap all around the circumference of the race to knock it out slowly. Use the old race to install the new race with a soft mallet. I will tighten the hubs using the Mercedes method of using a dial caliper to check lash."

Others may disagree, but I think it is a bad idea to use the old race against the new. I have always used brass as the contact metal. This avoids any possibility of distorting the race. Then use a 'hard' mallet. Also, tightening new tapered bearings, I prefer to overtighten, loosen, then retighten per the manual. I also will recheck the adjustment several times in the first 100 mi to make certain the races were fully seated.

But, this experience has NOT been with Mercedes. They may have some peculiarity I am unaware of. Simply adjusting the (old) bearings on ours presented no surprises.

Steve
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  #4  
Old 02-17-2003, 02:33 PM
dmorrison's Avatar
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Location: Colleyville, Texas
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Thanks for the info guys.

Haasman the disks are bolted on the hub and can be seperated. I have new rotors that I will attach to the hubs as shown in the Service manual.
I am dong the front end now and will get to the rear suspension later. I will change all filters and fluids in the reconditioning of the car. the steering box seems ok the last time I drove it. It has been a couple of months since I drove the car. I will look into the adjustment of the steering box and will make another post for that.

Front sway bar. Is it possible to remove and replace the mount bushings without removing the master cylinder/booster assembly. I was wondering if anyone has tried this??

Steve
I do agree with the idea of using a brass unit to press in the races. I shall try that with the large brass punch that I have.


Does anyone have a better Idea on installing the races. Just curious? I was considering buying a hydraulic press for this job, then of course I woul have the press for future projects. At $70 I figure it might be a nice investment.

Dave
__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #5  
Old 02-17-2003, 05:01 PM
haasman's Avatar
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Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,097
"Front sway bar. Is it possible to remove and replace the mount bushings without removing the master cylinder/booster assembly. I was wondering if anyone has tried this??"

Yes you can change the front sway bar bushings without removing the master cylinder/booster. It is awkward but you can do it.

Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
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  #6  
Old 02-17-2003, 10:44 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 638
installing bearing races

Use a bearing/bushing driving adapter they come in kits with many different sizes or use the brass drift. It will not harm the race. Using the old bearing race is also a good method it evenly distributes the load. It will not damage the new race. You shouold feel a great difference in the 'resistance' when the race bottoms in the bore and the sound will change sharply.
I presume you are changing the bearings as well. Be sure not to overgrease them as they will then overheat. Tighten them up until the hub is hard to turn(rotating it all the while, then back off until it's free, then tighten just until it starts to tighten up again.

I found it helps a lot when removing the front brake rotor from the hub to mount the tire with 3 lugs and hold the tire to keep the hub from rotating. Use blue thread lock on the old bolts.

I would not recomend trying to remove and reinstall the ball joints in the spindle without the special press tool for this job. The ball joint sits at an angle and you cannot drive it. Easy way to ruin the spindle and new ball joint.
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  #7  
Old 02-17-2003, 11:54 PM
hill's Avatar
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Location: Northern Calif Sacramento
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"Does anyone have a better Idea on installing the races. Just curious?"

I did a thousand or so brake jobs and just used the old races.
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2003, 12:24 AM
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The old races always worked great as the driver for the new races for me. Something about "perfect size" to match the new race.
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