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  #1  
Old 01-12-2000, 10:11 AM
nicodore
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Hello all

A few weeks ago the charge, disk pads and hand brake lights on my 1982 300D started staying on after the engine had started after I'd spolled some collant on the alternator and belts. I washed the alternator and belts (at this boards suggestion) and that seemed to cure the problem.

Yesterday, the lights started to stay on again. I'd bought new belts, so I changed them (2 alts and power steering) yesterday night, but the lights are still staying on. I'm afraid that this time it might be more serious.

How do I determine if the problem is the alternator itself or the alternator voltage regulator? My interest in the latter is one of cost.

Any and all help will be very appreciated.

Nicolas

------------------
1982 300D - http://members.xoom.com/nicodore/


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  #2  
Old 01-12-2000, 10:56 AM
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Posts: 239
Hi, Nicolas -

This may have nothing to do with your problem but I mention this in case your alternator is the original one and no work has ever been done to it.
I was told 95% of the time it is the voltage regulator that needs to be replaced and the alternator very rarely conks out even at 200,000+ miles.
Mine gave out at 190,000 while buzzing down the highway and the A/C, Radio, etc. starting shutting down.
The dealer had them in stock and I was back in business the same afternoon. The two spring loaded contact brushes were worn down.
These are Bosch parts and some have a diode and some don't (according to the dealer) and need to remove it to see.
Mine had the diode. (81 - 300SD)

I figure it would be worth just checking since it is easy to get to. (You may need a very short screwdriver.)

Not sure in Canada, but I paid around $70 for the regulator and swapped it out in about five minutes, if you were wondering about the actual cost.

Good luck.

Alan
VA300SD
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  #3  
Old 01-12-2000, 10:38 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
Posts: 4,712
It depends on this one. If the light for the battery is coming on, that indicates a diode problem and not a brush problem. When the brushes go bad the charge light will not come on in a low voltage situation. Bosch does make a factory re-man unit for this application.

------------------
Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM


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  #4  
Old 01-13-2000, 08:35 AM
nicodore
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Hello all

Benzmac, all three lights (battery, brakes and emergency brake) are on. Does that rule out a brushes problem?

As a further description, as it was cold this morning I poured hot water on the injectors before starting the car and, out of curiosity, poured some over the alt. After the engine started, the lights went out and stayed out for a few minutes. Then all 3 came back on.

As I need to fix this ASAP (it's really annoying not to be able to blow warm air in the car at 0 F) I'm bringing the car in this morning.

Thanks all for your help, I'll let you know it turns out to be.

Nicolas
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  #5  
Old 01-13-2000, 10:09 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
Posts: 4,712
If the battery light is on, you ruled out the brushes. Just replace the alt. assy with a Bosch rebuilt unit.

------------------
Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM


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  #6  
Old 01-14-2000, 08:44 AM
nicodore
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Hello all

Was the alt. The brushes were worn but still good, and I guess the water on it was making a contact netween 2 wires in the back, where the diodes are.

Just to make things really swell, the car refused to start, not even spinning, this morning. It was around -10 F, so I don't know if it's related. Battery might have been low. If I turned on the lights when the glow plugs were on, the relay started clattering. I'll jump-start it tonight and think better than to shut it off in low temperatures... :^)

Thanks all again.

Nicolas
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  #7  
Old 01-14-2000, 01:28 PM
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: montreal,quebec,canada
Posts: 53
must plug your car in winter and use synthetic oil.
i start my car in -17 degrees centigrade after 5 hours of waiting
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  #8  
Old 01-14-2000, 02:09 PM
nicodore
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Hi co.aulakh

So far, with a charged battery, I've had no problem starting the car down to -15 Celsius. It helps to pour boiling water on the injectors to help warm up the engine head. I don't have the option of plugging the block heater.

This morning it didn't even turn over, and the way the relay acted really leans me to think the battery was low. Might not have started with a full battery, but that's another story... :^)

Nicolas

P.s. I live in Montreal too. What type of car do you have? You can see mine at my web site below. We can wave if we see each other. :^)

------------------
1982 300D - http://members.xoom.com/nicodore/


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  #9  
Old 01-14-2000, 09:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: montreal,quebec,canada
Posts: 53
synthetic oil???????
your url link did not work.
who is your mechanic?
i have a blue gray 300d 1984 with 230,000 km on it.and do the maintainence mostly myself.
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  #10  
Old 01-15-2000, 02:12 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Indpls.,IN. USA
Posts: 84
Synthetic oil in the winter is the best way to go! If you can take your battery indoors it helps tremendously. The remaining tip is to add regular unleaded gasoline to your fuel in really cold temps.[10+ F] in percentages spelled out in your owners manual under adding supplemental fuel. This prevents the parafin molecules in diesel fuel from bonding together and plugging your filters, better known as gelling.It also gives your fuel a little more pop!, but don't leave blended fuel in your tank in warm weather, it may not even start on it.
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  #11  
Old 01-15-2000, 12:55 PM
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: San Antonio, Texas, USA
Posts: 154
Nicolas,

The link in your post to your home page still does not work; however the link in your profile does work.

Nice pictures!

Rockets tip re: adding correct amounts of gasoline to fuel is a good one. In 1982, traveling North from Atlanta to St. Louis, I arrived along with a really severe cold front. After parking the car for a time it would barely start and run -- my fuel (purchased in a southern state) was severely gelling or "waxing," it was not formulated for the severe cold! Addition of a little gasolene saved the day until I could find a diesel pump!

Is gelling normaly a problem in Canada with your Domestic diesel fuel?

------------------
Roger
'75 240D 300000 miles
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  #12  
Old 01-16-2000, 10:36 PM
nicodore
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Hello all

Now, some news from my alt problem: on Friday the alternator and some wiring were changed. 300$ US. When I picked the car up the warning lights stayed on for 2 minutes but went out and everything seemed fine for the drive home.

The following morning, the car didn't start, the engine barely turned over. I figured I just hadn't let it run long enough. A friend with a Neon and 2 towing trucks tried to start it but couldn't. Finally a towing truck with double batteries got it started.

Now the fun part: After letting it run for about 11 hours, the battery is now completely dead, so I have to come to the conclusion that something really is screwed with my charging system. The battery is not getting juice from the alt but the lights are all out!

Arrrggghhhh!!!!

Sorry, had to yell. So, does anyone have any idea as to what would cause the battery tp not charge but no warning light to come on?

Any, and I mean ANY, help appreciated.

Nicolas

P.s. Just to touch on a subject mentionned here, diesel fuel sold in Canada by the major companies contains additives to prevent gelling, according to where it is sold. Before buying my car I called the major petrol companies and they all said the same thing. So I guess gelling wouldn't be a problem.

P.s. 2 As for the link, they've probably disabled the page because I haven't logged in for a while. I'll check it out...
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  #13  
Old 01-16-2000, 10:54 PM
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: montreal,quebec,canada
Posts: 53
if your battery was weak in the first instance this might short out your alt.,i think.having an original large battery for diesel engines is very important.
radio shack sells a small cigerette plug mounted gadget which tells you if the battery is charging normally.
or else with a voltmeter see the voltage at the battery terminals when running should show at least 13.5 volts.
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  #14  
Old 01-17-2000, 12:17 AM
tracy_leb
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FWIW, a friend's 300 E was unable to start after a 12 hour drive. Turned out that one of the cells in his car's battery had shorted, leaving the battery without enough amperage to run the starter....
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  #15  
Old 01-17-2000, 08:30 AM
nicodore
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Hi

As an additionnal detail: the battery charges very well when I connect my car to someone else's. Also, when I picked up the car the battery had been charged by an out-of-car charger, and the car started right away. Driving home I guess I drained the battery.

Nicolas

------------------
1982 300D - http://members.xoom.com/nicodore/
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