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#1
07-26-2011, 03:24 AM
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As for "at this point" - which point is that? I think it is best to remove and install the transmission and engine at the same time - together - the chances of damaging the transmission are smaller (in my opinion again).
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! 
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#2
07-26-2011, 10:00 AM
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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#3
07-26-2011, 10:20 AM
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Well I'd do as much as you can to the engine and the transmission - well, as much as you are planning (don't get carried away now!) - when it is out. It is much easier to work on it now - particularly if you are cleaning or if you have to drill out fasteners... I wouldn't put on any(*) lines until you come to fit the engine to the car => One exception - the oil cooler lines. My point being lines and crap hanging off the engine causes scratches / damage / frustration when fitting it. Only the oil cooler lines appear to cause a greater frustration for most people when fitting them to the engine in the car - though I still think removing the second mounting brackets makes it a lot easier... But I must say the biggest crime you are making so far is not enough Pictures!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 07-26-2011 at 10:21 AM. Reason: Had to change that from no pictures to not enough...
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#4
07-26-2011, 11:10 PM
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Fair enough - I need to take more. How do I make the aluminum look good again? The oil canister and valve cover etc. How do I detail this beast?
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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#5
07-27-2011, 12:33 AM
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When I did the engine change on my coupe, I re-sealed the oil pan and main seals. You need to get the special anerobic sealant and primer for the pan to block seal (available at NAPA= EXPENSIVE!). I also replaced the entire rear rope seal without removing the crank: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=298852&highlight=rope+seal Of course you will need to remove the transmission to replace the complete rear seal. You should use a good degreaser to clean the engine bay before installing the engine. This is the best that I have found available at Sam's Club:
 Before cleaning:  After cleaning:  If you have access to a car hauler, I suggest taking the car to your local self serve car wash to pressure wash the engine bay. I took the entire donor engine to the car wash and cleaned it good enough to do a thorough paint job on the engine.
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 All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html
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#6
07-27-2011, 03:47 AM
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I've tried vinegar and other house hold cleaners and they are a waste of time. I've tried commercial products like this one http://www.frost.co.uk/car-care-tools/frost-ali-clean-1-litre.html Waste of time. The best thing I've found so far is to degrease with whatever degreaser you can get your hands on (I've been using these products http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/engine-parts-cleaners/engine-degreasers/) and then use a semi expensive wheel cleaner. The problem that you'll have (just like me) is that the staining is heavily ingrained into the surface - it ends up being a balance between as clean as you can get it and not so clean that the surface starts to corrode (go all powdery).
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#7
07-27-2011, 08:19 AM
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Sorry....there is no easy way to do it. They all take a lot of work to get there....and frequent work to maintain.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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