Hey Rich,

I bet you were sitting and not standing ... lol. What I learned most is how heavy that diff is, all 89 pounds of it.

Trust me, I pestered the seller a bunch to make sure it was the LSD flavor. Many folks had me spooked about a dozen different issues, but without them, I would have never been able to do this mod. Many thanks for the posters with all their info and leads. So far, so good. Now, on the prowel for a speedo !

I's time to double check the battery folks. Since the battery folks claim these batteries are safe as can be for my mod and some folks suggest my car will be a fireball of death, I need to figure out the skinny of possible battery issues. lol

I am not an automotive engineer but some thoughts from someone used to high energy power systems.

Assuming that battery is AGM technology it is safe in a rollover, so long as your support means are sufficient to restrain the battery from coming loose. It's one thing to have the battery sitting in a holder in its normal position, quite another to be giving it several g's in a non-normal direction.

I would also ensure the battery cable to the starter (since it's impractical to protect it) is routed with additional layers of jacketing and definitely inside the passenger compartment and ideally along the spine of the vehicle.

Also you should provide some sort of overcurrent protection if you end up tapping anything directly at the battery towards the trunk (wvo hardware??)

If your AGM battery has a vent tube be sure to direct it out of the vehicle.

Also provide an emergency disconnect accessible without removing the seat. My W210 has one on the back of the right rear passenger's foot space. Where there heels would be. There is a plastic cover with a 1/2"/13mm bolt that when removed breaks the ground path to the battery.

If you would like a peek under the seat of my W210 to see how it's done let me know.

They had a couple W210s at the Cola pullapart a few weeks ago but I think they might be gone now. That might be a good thing to do, grab the battery hardware and rear fuse box and emergency battery disconnect hardware.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Look what I did to my poor car. It's all jacked up ...

New Bilsteins in the rear and new Propigskin SLS delete springs in the rear with 19mm shims as well. Hope it settles down. Or, maybe new front springs and new Bilsteins will make it look level ? Just higher ... poop.

Does anyone know if I went with the 10mm shims versus the 19mm shims if that will make any real difference ???? Thank goodness this is a really easy operation, takes slightly over an hour, so any changes are no big deal.

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I'm confused why you're going with the SLS delete kit versus just buying stock springs for 300D Turbo.

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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

They are springs from a company which markets a SLS delete kit. You can just buy the springs also. I bought these 2nd hand from JB3 about 2 or 3 years ago. They were new, just leftovers. They are 18mm thick versus 15.9mm thick, but they are around 3/8" shorter. Instead of installing normal or standard springs, I just went with the beefier option.

wow!

if anything demonstrates the weight difference between a wagon and a sedan, this has gotta be it

pain in the rear, but at least the read springs are fairly easy to swap. im using the same ones on the wifes wagon, they have been installed all winter, id say the car settled maybe a half inch if at all. i seriously doubt the sleeper will drop that much

or you could cut them down a little more, though that would stiffen the ride a bit. may be worth it? super hard springs back there might compensate for the wimpy rear sway bar on these things.

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What did you sell me John ... lol

I am ordering 9.5mm pads versus the current 19mm. I am not sure the 10mm reduction will make that much difference. I think the new Bilsteins have some play in the height increase. The springs are actually 3/8" shorter than OEM.

The ride is definitely different. More cushion-iey ...

AND, I got a mile twang. I immediately thought of you!

When you remove the springs get the part number off them and see if you can cross reference that number with the list in the FSM => 32-240 tells you which rubber mounts to get.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Whatever you do at the spring it will be roughly double the effect at the wheel because of the teeter totter effect, so 10 mm different pad will make 20 mm at the wheel. You are really up there! I'd put a couple hundred pounds in the back and drive around a couple of months before changing anything again.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I sold you a cut off wheel modified, part number removed, random set of springs I bought off a random guy.

have you been over any speed bumps yet? the twanging will be exciting

that looks high enough that the wheels must be angled in some

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these springs are from some other application that have been modified specifically for wagons by an outfit out in CA. the part number is I believe unknown. I put another set on the wifes wagon, and there definitely werent any part numbers on that set.

Hes gonna have to do this by feel I think

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The twang came from the passenger side going over a speed bump. The passenger side was rotated perfectly to fit the lower grove so no idea how I got the twang .....

Thanks Tom for the info. 20mm reduction should help. I emailed Erik at ProPigSkins and asked him if I can cut the springs without an issue. I need to figure out how to remove that rubber - steel cable jacket / cover deal before I chop off an inch.

I ended up cutting one coil, which I believe is too much. I wish I cut 1/2 coil and then fine tuned it from there. Probably 3/4 of a coil would have been perfect. Odd thing, driver side's spring was tight when the spring compressor was removed and the passenger side was loose enough where another 1/4" would have been needed to make it tight like the driver's side. I measured a number of times and both coil springs are exact, within an amount which is not perceptible to the eye. So, not upset but not 100% either. On the ground, the car is the same height on both sides. I will measure again tomorrow to see if anything changed.

Drove it home, and made sure I drove it aggressively around the corners, et cet. Got a number of "t w a n g s" so to speak, but cornering is really really nice. Overall, the only thing I regret or would have done differently is cut 1/2" coil, drove it around for a day or two, and then decide to cut some more or not. The 18mm rear springs are definitely an improvement over 15.9mm 240D springs. Again, wish I only cut 1/2 coil, and then maybe another 1/4 of a coil at most. I currently got 19mm rubber pads, so I am pretty much stuck with what I got.

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Apologies to Greazzer, don't mean to highjack your thread. I'm impressed with the idea to use these on a sedan though, I'll bet it's much better on cloverleaf onramps.

JB3 are you happy with the propigkin springs? No bottoming out? My 82 which someone had deleted the SLS, and used HD W126 shocks with a spacer in the spring, had such bad road rash on the fuel tank it was leaking. I've bought the same springs for my 83 TD, I plan to install them with the 19mm pads as well. I just started a separate thread about which shocks to use.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

No probs ...

If anything, I can pass on to anyone wanting to try this the following: only cut 1/2 coil and go down to the 9.5 rubber pad.