The Sleeper Part Deux - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

daw_two · #61 06-08-2013, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

As for the new condensor, how in the world is the thinner and somewhat smaller condesnor somehow better?

Opinions please

The new condenser is a parallel flow one (hopefully) like mine. The refrigerant travels through the condenser twice. Look at where the inlet & outlet are on the condenser. On mine.....the inlet is on the top....and the outlet is on the bottom; both on passenger side. This means the refrigerant comes in from the top passenger side moves through the top half of condenser toward the driver side; then moves along the bottom half of the condenser to the outlet and then to the drier.

greazzer · #62 06-08-2013, 10:55 AM

Since I am thinking today is going to be cut short by the weather, I am just going to modify the radiator, take a bunch of pictures, do some measurements, and pop the radiator back in.

Demo and removal went smooth. Very straight foward. Now, I got the holese drilled out on the radiator and time to weld in the bungs, clean up, and re-install. The large (blue) is for the 3/4" heater hose return from the Heat Exchanger. The one next to it is for the EWP sensor. The one on the other side is a drain cock. Time to weld now. I will update within an hour. I set aside 2 hours today since I have a bunch of parts to mail to forum members; however, if the thunderstorms kick in, might be homebound ... lol

greazzer · #63 06-08-2013, 05:57 PM

Got the bungs welded in, and installed is the EWP sensor, drain/pet cock, and 3/4" return for the HE. This will be mated with the auxillary pump found in the later model W123s with the push buttom HVAC. It will be wired with the EWP. I am thinking the MB auxillary water pump (electric) moves a lot of water. We'll see. I hate the zip ties ... this is just a mock up since I have to figure out exactly where to mount the Be Cool Radiator. It's the 3" version (OEM was 1 1/2") and it can very snuggly mount under the radiator upper support craddle or if I nudge it towards the engine about 1/4", it rides up a little. I am thinking this engine will last a year or two, so no rush for my turbo .952 at the machine shop. So, overall, I got a year or two for all the mods and R&D. Once I figure out my R&D for the radiator, I should be able to remove it in about 5 minutes. Working on the Anderson electric connectors too since it looks like all these mod's and upgrades are ultimately interconnected.

I also did a quick dry run of ROLLGUY's Sanden Bracket. Fits like a glove. Once I get a few more pictures and measurements, I am ready to get my AC lines made and hello Mr. A/C. It is blazing hot already in Columbia, S.C. Went from almost black in the AM to super sunny right now, about 91 and very humid.

Simpler=Better · #64 06-09-2013, 10:46 AM

Looking good! One nitpick: I would make a bracket for the electric fan. I've heard that those push-through connectors will rub and cause leaks after a while.

greazzer · #65 06-10-2013, 10:01 AM

Fan is removed altogether right now, and I hate the "zip ties" which hold the fan to the radiator. I think that's a cheesy way to go too. Just a mock up since I am now thinking of a bigger radiator and moving the oil cooler down where AMG air chin will be down the road once I install the turbo engine. Looks like a nice fit if I go that way. I can say right now after driving the car this AM, the Be Cool has knocked off at least 30 F in the temps and that's with no fan at all. I just need one more piece (sort of like a gooseneck) and I could install the EWP. I got the sensor and 3/4" return installed in the radiator, ready to go. Actually, battery box in the trunk is installed and I just need a new piece of cable and that's done. Assuming I get that one piece, then I could take some pictures of the EWP installed, battery box completion, and modified intake manifold with H2O injection.

greazzer · #66 06-11-2013, 04:57 PM

Since the radiator mock-up worked out pretty well, and I determined how I want to install it, I am now shifting to installing the modified intake manifold with .75 GPH nozzle M+W injection. I need to get some odd ball aluminum pieces in this week, so I am shifting gears a little during the wait. I will post some pictures of the radiator out of the car with the gizmos hooked up, et cet. Down the road, I will be installing a larger radiator which takes up the space where the oil cooler is. That's 1-2 years R&D. Right now, happy with the current Be Cool.

I won't be using the "M" in the M&W set up. Just water. The main purpose is to off set any possible coking or junk caused by burning WVO. Since my WVO will be heated to 180-190 F*, with 2 tank system, I am thinking the junk caused by the chemistry of WVO will be almost none. For those who want to bash WVO/WMO, all I can say is that I got 4 solid years under my belt and never an issue. If you want to bash, then start a thread on it. Otherwise, I'm very satisfied and confident in burning grease.

As you can see, there are some similarities between the mod'd NA intake and the 115 long runner. Other than the 115 looks sexier, I am thinking the modified 300 NA will look very sharp once I sand her down and polish it up on the buffer. Already hit the high spots on the top and she's pretty shiny with just 220 grit. I ground off all the casting lines, tangs, dog ears, and other boo boos. There's one deep gouge that will stay, but that is on the bottom. Otherwise, I am shooting for the chrome look from the buffer wheel. Plus, good by useless EGR valve !

The water injection items are from Devils Own. I really like their stuff. I got the 90* nozzle holder and a ton of line for all kinds of boo boos. I also got the huge 1.6 gallon resevoir out of the Euro W123s so I can run for about a week without fill ups.

Once I sand and buff, I can quickly install. I will post pictures. Supposed to hit mid to high 90's this week, so all work will be from 645-ish to 800 ish before it starts to burn up.

Still waiting on my R12. Other than that the following projects should be done by the end of June: A/C will be done. Radiator upgrades will be done. Manifold and H2O injection will be done. Battery in trunk with quick connects will be done. And, maybe, the EWP. Once I hit that point, I will go full blast on the whole car sound deadening and oil filter relocation.

winmutt · #67 06-11-2013, 05:17 PM

Since I read the first post and fast forwarded to the end, what are you doing for a pump?

greazzer · #68 06-11-2013, 05:19 PM

The washer fluid pump ... JUST kidding.

Devils Own. I have one in my garage, except I cannot find it right now. Looks like a bomb went off in there as I organize and clean out stuff.

Stretch · #69 06-12-2013, 01:57 AM

Can I ask a H2O related question? Why does that help get rid of WVO gunk? {If you've posted that information elsewhere please just point to it}

greazzer · #70 06-12-2013, 07:13 AM

Hey Army,

I didn't post any info on the cleaning as I rested on the shoulders of giants. There are a few threads on the topic which degenerated into a dispute and argument over how the process works. The gist is that the water "steams" away the junk. That is my summary so for all those who are much more scientific please excuse in advance. There was an example by a forum member who pointed out that if one blows a head gasket, the internals become very clean because of the water / steam created by the head gasket failure. I know from the STD community that the water or W&M injection, the vapor lowers Exhaust Gas Temps. And, the "M" gives an added kick or boost so to speak. I will be burning W&M in my turbo engine to lower the temps and for that added boost. However, for this application, no need for the boost. Only so much mojo out of a tired 77 HP engine. Hope that helps ...

Stretch · #71 06-12-2013, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

Hey Army,

I didn't post any info on the cleaning as I rested on the shoulders of giants. There are a few threads on the topic which degenerated into a dispute and argument over how the process works. The gist is that the water "steams" away the junk. That is my summary so for all those who are much more scientific please excuse in advance. There was an example by a forum member who pointed out that if one blows a head gasket, the internals become very clean because of the water / steam created by the head gasket failure. I know from the STD community that the water or W&M injection, the vapor lowers Exhaust Gas Temps. And, the "M" gives an added kick or boost so to speak. I will be burning W&M in my turbo engine to lower the temps and for that added boost. However, for this application, no need for the boost. Only so much mojo out of a tired 77 HP engine. Hope that helps ...

Thanks - whilst I still have two feet strictly planted in the diesel only camp at the moment - I can envisage a time when diesel fuel just won't be sold here anymore. So I think the more people there are doing this sort of thing the better and bigger the knowledge base becomes - diesel only diehards might not like it but some of these alternative fuels (or a variation on the theme) might be the future whether they like it or not. Still I'll have a look about for those links - thanks again - steam cleaner eh?

greazzer · #72 06-12-2013, 11:14 AM

At this point, the WVO community is shrinking because of a few factors. One, big business is buying the grease. When it was "free", the restruants were paying companies to get rid of it. Now, the same places are making money by selling it. Second, the electric car or hybrids are coming out and replacing conventional gas cars to some degree. Why go thru the hassle of WVO when you can drive a COTs car on the cheaps so to speak. Also, when the price of fuel dropped - stabilized, so did the interests in biodiesel/WVO. Last, burning grease successfully is not that easy when you start. One is looking at $1,000 start up costs. Picking up a waste product which is messy and turning it into a water free, junk free, purified product down to the sub-micron level takes time, patience, practice, and money. Most folks get cranky when they run it thru a few 1 micron nominal bags, pour that crap into the tank, and expect things to go just jim dandy. The car itself will need around $500+ to be properly converted. And, because there are no guildlines or established "norms", everything is R&D. Heck, I am on my third system right now, and my guess is that 1-2 years from now, I will change my set up again since I will think I built a better mouse trap. All these factors equal time and money. So, tell someone that they will need to invest around $2,000, about a few hundred hours, and maybe an hour or two every month from now on to collect grease, and see how many folks line up. Everyone likes the idea of free or nearly free fuel and driving, and WVO does present that opportunity, but there is a start-up price tag. Most folks will stay away from the process or, they jump into it with both feet, only to be disappointed or bitter over a poorly running car, or the nickle and dime costs along the way. Just my .02 cents...

Phillytwotank · #73 06-12-2013, 11:29 AM

I'm excited to see the sleeper all put together. You should bring it up tothe biodiesel plant in winnsboro for a little show and tell and I'll be happy to give you the tour of our operation.

winmutt · #74 06-12-2013, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

The washer fluid pump ... JUST kidding.

Devils Own. I have one in my garage, except I cannot find it right now. Looks like a bomb went off in there as I organize and clean out stuff.

Is that an injection pump? Sorry I meant what injection pump are you using to make a sleeper? What size elements?

greazzer · #75 06-12-2013, 01:30 PM

Ahhh... gotcha now ...

When I install my turbo engine which has Sure-Seal rings, Ceramic Coated Pistons, et cet., I will be installing one of Goran's mod'd "M" pumps which has been enshrined in my closet vs. the garage. I cannot recall the fuel delivery print out numbers from Goran's shop which he provided when I got the pump last year. It has 6,0mm. When I find the print out from his shop in Sweeden, I will post them. My spec's were under 200 HP, as I want to go from 0-70 as fast as possible and not be able to go a zillion miles an hour. Although the C-111 has a lot of mod's and it's certainly not a W123, it does demonstrate that the OM617.952A engine can make a car go pretty darn fast. My turbo will be water cooled, and not oil cooled. The only "parasitc" drain on the engine which is superflous will be the M-100 type of suspension. I am on the prowl now for a turbo TD cylinder head which has the casting for that pump.