The Sleeper Part Deux - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

greazzer · #1 05-02-2013, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walkenvol

That is a really interesting web site. Not sure how the different MB models are on the floors, but my current 190 has molded panels on the bottom of the carpet that contour to the floor shape. How would one adape the mass vinyl to that?

On my MB, W123 Chassis Platform, there is this plastic looking like stuff which was apparently some sort of rust proofing - sound deadening stuff from the 80's. Every W123 I have ever seen at the JY had this stuff. If you tap it with a rubber mallet, some parts of it will crack and you can pull it out in pieces. Other parts stick like glue still. This stuff is common, and it can be removed easily with dry ice, for example. Others say heat - heat gun. The space gained by removing this stuff is OK for the mass vinyle. I picked up some small pieces of MV to play with. The stuff does not conture perfectly for the indentations, but you can work it. That is why I am thinking some sort of contact cement or adhesive. The big areas such as behind the back seat are pretty flat as compared to the floor area. Overall, I am thinking using the carpet pieces as general templates since my R&D - learning curve will be one side of the car since the driver side mirrors the passenger side. The doors are "easy" now, so is the roof, and back seat area.

daw_two · #2 05-02-2013, 01:44 PM

Greazzer ----

Please post pics since I'm getting ready to pull the dash and entire airbox out of the 1984 300D. I will want to install some sound proofing on the the front wall.

Thanks!!!

t walgamuth · #3 05-02-2013, 11:36 AM

I am thinking about my 39 Studebaker which has nothing inside at the moment, so it would be dead simple to apply material in it....after the body work is complete.

Stretch · #4 05-02-2013, 04:52 PM

How thick are these sheets of mass loaded vinyl (MLV) and the CLD tiles? Do you know who makes them?

greazzer · #5 05-02-2013, 05:11 PM

The MLV comes in varying thicknesses. That is something you can get anywhere. The CLD Tiles are unique to Don. I got those CDL tiles from Don, but I am also going to buy everything from him. He's the best ... !

Phillytwotank · #6 05-20-2013, 07:50 PM

Lookin' Good!

greazzer · #7 06-04-2013, 09:42 PM

Right now, the heat is on ... and not the Miami Heat.

Time to install RollGuy's Sanden A/C upgrade. Many, many thanks to RollGuy. Here are some snappies of the parts.

1. Compressor from Secondaries, with "K" head
2. Brackets and bolts
3. New Belt

I have on order from Fleabay the PF Condensor 16x20 and Freon (R-12)& oil charge.
NAPA carries the dryer.

The only thing I think I am missing are the lines / hoses. Found a local shop in W.Cola. that says it does these.

Shout out if anyone sees anything missing ....

Also, I am thinking from memory that the plug on the MB has 3 wires whereas the Sanden has one?

jay_bob · #8 06-04-2013, 11:05 PM

The 240D harness is just power and ground to the compressor clutch coil. It is a big flat connector meant to mate with the R4's clutch terminals.

The 603 motor, with the serpentine belt, has the compressor tach and the extra wires in the compressor harness.

greazzer · #9 06-08-2013, 10:34 AM

Hopefully, I will have my Be Cool 3" radiator installed today. Just finished the demo and got everything out of the way, ready for ROLLGUY's Sanden upgrade too. Just waiting on my R-12 and set of R-12 gausges.

The radiator set up is just a mock up and it will be removed and modified in a few weeks again. However, looks like I will be able to knock out to upgrades / modifications: the cooling system and A/C system. Just waiting on one more part for the EWP.

As for the new condensor, how in the world is the thinner and somewhat smaller condesnor somehow better?

A few pictures ...

Opinions please

daw_two · #10 06-08-2013, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

As for the new condensor, how in the world is the thinner and somewhat smaller condesnor somehow better?

Opinions please

The new condenser is a parallel flow one (hopefully) like mine. The refrigerant travels through the condenser twice. Look at where the inlet & outlet are on the condenser. On mine.....the inlet is on the top....and the outlet is on the bottom; both on passenger side. This means the refrigerant comes in from the top passenger side moves through the top half of condenser toward the driver side; then moves along the bottom half of the condenser to the outlet and then to the drier.

greazzer · #11 06-08-2013, 11:55 AM

Since I am thinking today is going to be cut short by the weather, I am just going to modify the radiator, take a bunch of pictures, do some measurements, and pop the radiator back in.

Demo and removal went smooth. Very straight foward. Now, I got the holese drilled out on the radiator and time to weld in the bungs, clean up, and re-install. The large (blue) is for the 3/4" heater hose return from the Heat Exchanger. The one next to it is for the EWP sensor. The one on the other side is a drain cock. Time to weld now. I will update within an hour. I set aside 2 hours today since I have a bunch of parts to mail to forum members; however, if the thunderstorms kick in, might be homebound ... lol

greazzer · #12 06-08-2013, 06:57 PM

Got the bungs welded in, and installed is the EWP sensor, drain/pet cock, and 3/4" return for the HE. This will be mated with the auxillary pump found in the later model W123s with the push buttom HVAC. It will be wired with the EWP. I am thinking the MB auxillary water pump (electric) moves a lot of water. We'll see. I hate the zip ties ... this is just a mock up since I have to figure out exactly where to mount the Be Cool Radiator. It's the 3" version (OEM was 1 1/2") and it can very snuggly mount under the radiator upper support craddle or if I nudge it towards the engine about 1/4", it rides up a little. I am thinking this engine will last a year or two, so no rush for my turbo .952 at the machine shop. So, overall, I got a year or two for all the mods and R&D. Once I figure out my R&D for the radiator, I should be able to remove it in about 5 minutes. Working on the Anderson electric connectors too since it looks like all these mod's and upgrades are ultimately interconnected.

I also did a quick dry run of ROLLGUY's Sanden Bracket. Fits like a glove. Once I get a few more pictures and measurements, I am ready to get my AC lines made and hello Mr. A/C. It is blazing hot already in Columbia, S.C. Went from almost black in the AM to super sunny right now, about 91 and very humid.

Simpler=Better · #13 06-09-2013, 11:46 AM

Looking good! One nitpick: I would make a bracket for the electric fan. I've heard that those push-through connectors will rub and cause leaks after a while.

greazzer · #14 06-10-2013, 11:01 AM

Fan is removed altogether right now, and I hate the "zip ties" which hold the fan to the radiator. I think that's a cheesy way to go too. Just a mock up since I am now thinking of a bigger radiator and moving the oil cooler down where AMG air chin will be down the road once I install the turbo engine. Looks like a nice fit if I go that way. I can say right now after driving the car this AM, the Be Cool has knocked off at least 30 F in the temps and that's with no fan at all. I just need one more piece (sort of like a gooseneck) and I could install the EWP. I got the sensor and 3/4" return installed in the radiator, ready to go. Actually, battery box in the trunk is installed and I just need a new piece of cable and that's done. Assuming I get that one piece, then I could take some pictures of the EWP installed, battery box completion, and modified intake manifold with H2O injection.

greazzer · #15 06-11-2013, 05:57 PM

Since the radiator mock-up worked out pretty well, and I determined how I want to install it, I am now shifting to installing the modified intake manifold with .75 GPH nozzle M+W injection. I need to get some odd ball aluminum pieces in this week, so I am shifting gears a little during the wait. I will post some pictures of the radiator out of the car with the gizmos hooked up, et cet. Down the road, I will be installing a larger radiator which takes up the space where the oil cooler is. That's 1-2 years R&D. Right now, happy with the current Be Cool.

I won't be using the "M" in the M&W set up. Just water. The main purpose is to off set any possible coking or junk caused by burning WVO. Since my WVO will be heated to 180-190 F*, with 2 tank system, I am thinking the junk caused by the chemistry of WVO will be almost none. For those who want to bash WVO/WMO, all I can say is that I got 4 solid years under my belt and never an issue. If you want to bash, then start a thread on it. Otherwise, I'm very satisfied and confident in burning grease.

As you can see, there are some similarities between the mod'd NA intake and the 115 long runner. Other than the 115 looks sexier, I am thinking the modified 300 NA will look very sharp once I sand her down and polish it up on the buffer. Already hit the high spots on the top and she's pretty shiny with just 220 grit. I ground off all the casting lines, tangs, dog ears, and other boo boos. There's one deep gouge that will stay, but that is on the bottom. Otherwise, I am shooting for the chrome look from the buffer wheel. Plus, good by useless EGR valve !

The water injection items are from Devils Own. I really like their stuff. I got the 90* nozzle holder and a ton of line for all kinds of boo boos. I also got the huge 1.6 gallon resevoir out of the Euro W123s so I can run for about a week without fill ups.

Once I sand and buff, I can quickly install. I will post pictures. Supposed to hit mid to high 90's this week, so all work will be from 645-ish to 800 ish before it starts to burn up.

Still waiting on my R12. Other than that the following projects should be done by the end of June: A/C will be done. Radiator upgrades will be done. Manifold and H2O injection will be done. Battery in trunk with quick connects will be done. And, maybe, the EWP. Once I hit that point, I will go full blast on the whole car sound deadening and oil filter relocation.