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#1
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w123 300td front end rebuild questions
Background: I bought a 1982 w123 300TD that was not well maintained. I have installed a rebuilt engine, transmission, drivetrain and radiator and now it runs extremely well.
The tires are showing some shoulder wear, and after hitting a rock a few days ago the car now pulls a bit to one side. I'm thinking to rebuild the entire front end. My questions are:
Last edited by 300TD1982; 12-02-2018 at 04:11 AM. |
#2
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I personally will never ever buy Febi again. They are box shifters - they don't appear to actually appear to make anything themselves. Not only have I found their products to be over priced and substandard when I tried to get them to replace parts where the rubber had cracked in storage the regional manager for the Benelux countries was a rude ignorant arse hole.
I don't expect others to fight my battles for me - but there you go - you asked for opinions (!) I say avoid Febi like the plague. ##### The list you are using is a generic list. It is useful but if you were to buy the whole upper control arm assemblies for example you wouldn't need to get the grease boot repair kit as well. ##### I think you are best off looking for structural damage before making a bulk buy of parts and throwing parts at the car. Although times seem to have improved with regards to the quality of replacement parts I'm firmly of the opinion (having done it myself) that original parts are / were of better quality than those that are available now. Don't look at the "old" part and assume it won't carry on doing a good job for you just because it is old. It is best to check and measure rather than blanket replace.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Tire wear
Sagging upper control arm bushings will cause the camber to become negative, resulting in inner edge tire wear. Barring some catastrophic failure due to rust, the most common cause of the front wheel tilting inward at the top is failure of the upper control arm's inner bushing, where it's bolted to the inner fender. Rotted out Lower Control Arm Bushings will cause outer edge Tire Wear and unless they are extremely bad you cannot see the Bushings are no good. Personally I would not replace more then is needed to fix the issue (I say that because over the last Year my car was hit and run in parking lots X2. An accident can turn you prize into junk quickly.). But, you should check all.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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After rebuilding several W123 and W126 FEs I can tell you this is what fails in order...
1. Caster rod bushings. Don't cheap out here. 2. Lower ball joints. 3. Upper ball joints and control arm bushing. 4. Tie rod ends and drag link. Seldom do I find the other bushings worn to the point of not maintaining alignment. |
#5
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I would do all parts in sections. If you remove the spring, do upper and lower ball joints bushings, guide rod mounts and sway bar bushings if necessary. My 126 sway bar bushings were fine so I left them.
All of the steering parts between the tie rods are easy and may have a lot of mileage left. Same with steering damper. Do shocks if they are old. |
#6
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lemforder is the OEM supplier of the w123 undercarriage parts so stick with that. MB also buys from Lemforder. Never ever buy febi they dont do R&D they just copy.
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#7
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Thanks everyone. I appreciate all your comments.
Today I drove four hours to the closest auto repair place. They said nothing looks bent or obviously trashed. They don't actually have the tools to align my car, so now I have an appointment next week at the repair place that is 5 or 6 hours away. "Country life." ![]() I'll see what they say and go from there. I'll go with Mercedes or Lemfoerder parts for sure. There's a lot of play in the steering box, so I might try to get a remanufactured one delivered in time for my appointment next week. |
#8
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Ordered a remanufactured steering box. It'll be here Wednesday and I'll take the car in Thursday to have the new box installed and alignment performed. Or, if parts are too knackered to do an alignment then I'll go from there.
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#9
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You're wasting your money aligning it before installing suspension parts. Every 126 that I've looked at has had worn parts because there is over 100,000 mi on the suspension. You'll get that Mercedes handling if you refurbish the front end.
I've had several that "could be aligned" but followed the road crown way more than when new. Refurb fixed that. There are lots of threads with pics and destructions.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#10
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Quote:
Hi, I appreciate the tip! Are you suggesting pre-emptively replacing parts? If so, which ones? Also, this is a 123, not a 126, for what that's worth. I bought it used, and the suspension has somewhere between 20,000 and 300,000 miles on it. |
#11
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It is my opinion that a complete front end rebuild is in order. Especially if you are planning to put on new tires soon. I have done several, and the ride quality and road feel is greatly improved. Comparing my low(ish) mile '85 300D with my other one with 300K+, the '85 feels like a new car. I have driven several others with low miles, and the cars with rebuilt front suspension feel the same or better. It is worth every penny in my opinion......Rich
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![]() All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#12
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The Lower control arm bushings on a W123 can be upgraded to the W126 specification - quite a popular upgrade
(I still wouldn't chuck old good stuff though!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#13
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Quote:
Everything on that list above (I realize there are some redundancies)? Anything else? I love this car and I'd like to do it once and do it right! |
#14
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#15
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If I remember, I did not replace the guide rod bushings. Everything else in your list was replaced. I have a thread here somewhere from a few years ago. I have done several others since then......Rich
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![]() All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
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