'05 CDI "communication fault" N14/2 Glow Output Stage 2538-4 jay-bob? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TimFreeh · #31 12-27-2022, 02:28 PM

I don't think you can swap regulators between alternators without some knowledge of the configuration of the alternator and the regulator.

In the EPC I'm seeing that some regulators have to be used with certain alternators so mixing and matching might bring unpredictable or undesirable results?

If you send me the VIN I can lookup what the MB part number of the correct alternator and regulator is supposed to be for that VIN. I don't think that's really going to help much though because you have a Bosch re-manned alternator and there isn't any cross-reference in the EPC for Bosch re-manufactured products.

I would run the alternator test on one of your other CDI's and see if it passes. Given the flakiness of the bootleg SDS systems I'm not sure I'd take your SDS test generated results as gospel.

Are you still getting the N14/2 unable to communicate with the Glow plug controller error? If I were in your shoes I'd zero in on that issue before proceeding with other diagnosis. If the N14/2 error was still there I'd disconnect the alternator LIN wire and see if the N14/2 error went away. That would confirm that the new alternator isn't correct and is taking down the LIN bus communications with the glow plug controller.

ROLLGUY · #32 12-27-2022, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimFreeh

I don't think you can swap regulators between alternators without some knowledge of the configuration of the alternator and the regulator.

In the EPC I'm seeing that some regulators have to be used with certain alternators so mixing and matching might bring unpredictable or undesirable results?

If you send me the VIN I can lookup what the MB part number of the correct alternator and regulator is supposed to be for that VIN. I don't think that's really going to help much though because you have a Bosch re-manned alternator and there isn't any cross-reference in the EPC for Bosch re-manufactured products.

I would run the alternator test on one of your other CDI's and see if it passes. Given the flakiness of the bootleg SDS systems I'm not sure I'd take your SDS test generated results as gospel.

Are you still getting the N14/2 unable to communicate with the Glow plug controller error? If I were in your shoes I'd zero in on that issue before proceeding with other diagnosis. If the N14/2 error was still there I'd disconnect the alternator LIN wire and see if the N14/2 error went away. That would confirm that the new alternator isn't correct and is taking down the LIN bus communications with the glow plug controller.

Yes I am still getting the N14/2 unable to communicate with the Glow plug controller error. This is from my parts guy, I sent him the VIN:

A 004 154 03 06
* REGULATOR SWITCH
ALTERNATOR

1

Code: F211/F220;
Replaces: A 003 154 71 06
Replaces: A 003 154 59 06
Replaces: A 003 154 41 06

I will disconnect the LIN connector, and see what happens. I will also run the alternator test on my other CDI.

Agreed that it might not matter using the VIN to find the regulator for a reman alternator, but I can PM the VIN to you and see if you come up with the same info.

ROLLGUY · #33 12-27-2022, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Are you still getting the N14/2 unable to communicate with the Glow plug controller error? If I were in your shoes I'd zero in on that issue before proceeding with other diagnosis. If the N14/2 error was still there I'd disconnect the alternator LIN wire and see if the N14/2 error went away. That would confirm that the new alternator isn't correct and is taking down the LIN bus communications with the glow plug controller.

I disconnected the LIN connector and scanned for codes, ONLY ONE came up and it was for the alternator! I plugged it back in, checked for codes, and the glow plug fault came back!

I really don't want to pull the alternator again, but it looks like I may have to do just that.

TimFreeh · #34 12-27-2022, 05:14 PM

Well that's some progress.

I put the VIN of my CDI in and the EPC indicates the Regulator is indeed part # 004 154 03 06.

There is also a note saying that this regulator should be used in conjunction with alternators 013 154 00 02 or 014 154 07 02.

If you want to PM me your VIN I can see of yours is the same.

TimFreeh · #35 12-27-2022, 05:20 PM

BTW I think you could ignore the LIN interface error with the alternator and just run it as-is.

The ramp-up-ramp down functionally of the LIN bus is mainly a fuel-saving scheme where the alternator defers charging under some conditions when the engine is decelerating.

I bet the check-engine light doesn't even come on when the LIN bus to the alternator is down?

ROLLGUY · #36 12-27-2022, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimFreeh

BTW I think you could ignore the LIN interface error with the alternator and just run it as-is.

The ramp-up-ramp down functionally of the LIN bus is mainly a fuel-saving scheme where the alternator defers charging under some conditions when the engine is decelerating.

I bet the check-engine light doesn't even come on when the LIN bus to the alternator is down?

The plug has to be on for the alternator to even work (it has two wires). If I just deleted the LIN wire only, then yes it may not turn on the CEL or give the glow plug control code.

TimFreeh · #37 12-27-2022, 05:37 PM

Your VIN comes back the the same part numbers as my VIN.

VR - 004 154 03 06

Used with Alternators
014 154 07 02
013 154 00 02

It appears the original alternator is the 013 # and it has been superseded by the 014 #

ROLLGUY · #38 01-06-2023, 08:34 PM

I got home from my vacation to find the Genuine Bosch voltage regulator in the mail box. I installed it by just removing the alternator from it's mounting, and then turning it with the regulator facing down. I was able to replace the regulator much easier this way. I put everything back together, and NO CEL or glow plug DTC!!!!! The bad regulator appeared to be a cheap Chinese copy, and NOT a genuine part. Thanks again for all your expert help!

ROLLGUY · #39 02-11-2023, 10:42 PM

Well, that was short lived. After replacing the alternator, regulator and installing a new AGM battery, I thought the car was fixed. But after sitting for a little more than a week waiting for a new turbo cartridge to arrive and get installed, the battery was COMPLETELY DEAD! And I don't mean just "mostly dead" (guess the reference), I mean so dead that charging it over night only brought it up to six volts. Totally ruined battery. On top of that, with another battery installed, it is only charging (or should I say not charging) at 12.3v. My guess is that either the BCM is bad, or the alternator is bad again. I will be "coding out" (deleting/removing) both the Tele Aid and alarm system with my STAR SDS computer. I believe either one or both of these systems could be responsible for the parasitic draw. The Tele Aid system is obsolete, and the alarm is useless anymore (ignored by most people). I am hoping one or both turns out to be the cause of the draw, so I can have some closure. Stay tuned.......

ROLLGUY · #40 03-07-2023, 09:46 AM

After removing the alternator and sending back the regulator, I installed the replacement regulator (under warranty), and the car now charges the battery. I decided to have the alternator tested (at the 'Zone) before installing it. I found out that the CD player was in a tizzy, and was the source of the draw. I was told that the radio has not worked since about the time the battery started going dead. I removed both fuses (CD & radio), and the draw went away. The car sat for almost two weeks while waiting for the replacement regulator, and still was able to start. Once I put the fuses back in, opened the CD changer door, the radio came back and everything works! I used an amp clamp to monitor the modules gradually sleeping, and confirmed that the draw was gone.