Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > ML, GL, G-Wagen, R-Class, Unimog, Sprinter

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-10-2020, 04:42 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Sprinter 3500 DIY rear brake job

I mostly hang out in Diesel Discussion. I usually post there, but a friend asked me to work on his Sprinter chassis motor home, so I figured I would post here. The rear brakes were down to the sensors. New parts (Zimmerman) were procured, and I did the job today. After removing the rear dual wheels, I loosened the bolts (19mm) holding the rotor and wheel mounting flange. I then removed the caliper bolts (15mm) and mounting bracket bolts (24mm). I removed the sensor wire so the caliper could hang out of the way. A little hammering on the rotor loosened it enough to be able to remove it and the flange.

Attached Thumbnails
Sprinter 3500 DIY rear brake job-20200710_110741.jpg   Sprinter 3500 DIY rear brake job-20200710_102826.jpg   Sprinter 3500 DIY rear brake job-20200710_103315.jpg   Sprinter 3500 DIY rear brake job-20200710_103446.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-10-2020, 04:53 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Part 2

I then slid on the new rotor and wheel bolt flange, and tightened the bolts. The caliper bracket went on next. I used a C clamp to compress the pistons into their bores. The pads went next, and then the caliper was installed. The kit came with new parts, so I used them (bolts, pad guides etc.). Next the wear sensor got inserted in the slot, and plugged into the connector.
Attached Thumbnails
Sprinter 3500 DIY rear brake job-20200710_103710.jpg   Sprinter 3500 DIY rear brake job-20200710_103739.jpg   Sprinter 3500 DIY rear brake job-20200710_104605.jpg   Sprinter 3500 DIY rear brake job-20200710_104811.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-10-2020, 04:55 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Part 3

I then torqued the flange/rotor bolts and installed the wheels. It took about an hour per side, not working hard or fast. It is one of the easiest brake jobs I have ever done!
Attached Thumbnails
Sprinter 3500 DIY rear brake job-20200710_105546.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-10-2020, 07:20 PM
engatwork's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
Posts: 13,667
Were parts cost in line or AMG outrageous?
__________________
Jim
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-10-2020, 07:43 PM
tyl604's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3,641
You hammered on the rotor to remove it. I forget. Does it not have a threaded hole where you insert a bolt and by screwing in the bolt, you loosen the rotor?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-10-2020, 08:32 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by tyl604 View Post
You hammered on the rotor to remove it. I forget. Does it not have a threaded hole where you insert a bolt and by screwing in the bolt, you loosen the rotor?
Not that I could tell. The rotor is sandwiched between the hub and the wheel bolt flange. The rotor goes on easy, but the flange is a press fit. The bolts pull it in when tightened.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-10-2020, 08:34 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Were parts cost in line or AMG outrageous?
Actually not. The Zimmerman (Made in Germany) complete kit (Rotors, Pads, Sensors, Hardware) was about $200 delivered.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-11-2020, 08:46 AM
engatwork's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
Posts: 13,667
Not bad at all. That is good to hear.
__________________
Jim
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-11-2020, 09:39 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Not bad at all. That is good to hear.
Also, the fact that the axles do not have to be removed to replace the rotors (the need to remove the axle is common on older full floating axles) is a bonus.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-11-2020, 11:02 AM
ILUVMILS's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,067
Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Were parts cost in line or AMG outrageous?
AMG = Additional Money Gone
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-11-2020, 01:17 PM
engatwork's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
Posts: 13,667
That is what I realized when I recently priced out a new electric radiator cooling fan for an 01 ML55. At least it ain't NLA yet.
__________________
Jim
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-05-2020, 04:56 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
AMG = Additional Monstrous Grunt


Nice write up on the sprinter brakes, good to see they are neither expensive or difficult to work on. I've been debating acquiring one of the sprinter RVs.....would probably be a pre-OM642/pre 2008 though.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12-15-2020, 09:13 PM
dieselmania's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Posts: 576
Thanks for the write up, I was on here for years with a 1987 300D and now I'm back with a 2010 3500 Sprinter with a Class A MH on it. I just tore the front brakes apart to inspect, measure and to clean and re-lube the slide pins. Still have plenty of pad and rotor left. Slide pins were not frozen and all caliper pistons move freely. Will be doing the same in the rear. After that I'm doing a complete power flush. Trying to remedy what I feel is a low pedal. I know the Sprinter is known for a lot of pedal travel, more than most vehicles, but I feel mine is excessive as the brake pedal goes far enough down that your foot can press the accelerator at the same time. Folks on the Sprintersource recommended slide pins first then a power flush/bleed, AFAIK the system has never been opened.

Not a lot of DIY activity on the NCV3 Sprinters, seems most of the Sprinter DIY's own T1Ns.

__________________
Brian
87 300Dturbo 180K #14 head still running R-12 SOLD 12/2017
02 F350 Powerstroke 180K
05 Chevy Express 1 ton w/Royal Utility box 120K
08 Infiniti FX-35 40K
15 Golf Sportwagen TDI 35K
10 Sprinter 3500 chassis with a Class A Winnebago on it. 56K
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page