Ball joint replacement using HF kit and home made adapter - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #1 01-23-2013, 01:02 PM

OK,
you cut a SLIT in the 2" pipe, then hammered it back round, and welded the slit closed, and welded the washer onto one end of the piece...
right?
I'd also like to know what you did to remove the old joint.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I took a piece of 2" black pipe and cut off a slice 7/8" long. I cut out about 1/4" from the circumference, making the diameter smaller. I then welded a large washer on the top, and ground it all smooth (just for looks).

qwerty · #2 01-23-2013, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I'd also like to know what you did to remove the old joint.

The W123 service manual calls for knocking old ball joints out with a hammer. No special tools or techniques required.

Zacharias · #3 01-23-2013, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qwerty

The W123 service manual calls for knocking old ball joints out with a hammer. No special tools or techniques required.

Works like a charm for some, others on this board say they've hammered till they couldn't feel their shoulder anymore and they couldn't get the thing to budge.

Zulfiqar · #4 01-23-2013, 01:59 PM

To get that ball joint out a serious hammer (literally like Thor's Hammer) is required.

and another hammer made of brass with a 2 ft handle to act as a drift held by another person while the first person swings the 10 lb sledge like an axe. It would take one swing to knock it out, two for rusty ones.

You can use a 4 lb sledge with more time (shoulder wear out)

vstech · #5 01-23-2013, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

To get that ball joint out a serious hammer (literally like Thor's Hammer) is required.

and another hammer made of brass with a 2 ft handle to act as a drift held by another person while the first person swings the 10 lb sledge like an axe. It would take one swing to knock it out, two for rusty ones.

You can use a 4 lb sledge with more time (shoulder wear out)

you now have me imagining Mjolnir slamming into the spindle with lightning flying...
John Henry's hammer makes more sense to me as an example...

Walkenvol · #6 01-23-2013, 02:44 PM

I just did them on a W201 which I think is the same design as the W124. I got them out with a sledge hammer along with the aid of heat. Removed the wheel, disconnected the hub/brakes and tied them out of the way. Car was in the shop on a concrete floor. Set the arm down on a large block of wood (arm still attached to car) such that 80% of the bottom of the BJ was hanging over the edge. Hit it several times with a 3' - 4' swing of the sledge and no budge. Heated things up (not cherry hot as it appears the end of the arm is tempered) and it still took several more whacks before they popped out. One side drove the ball of the BJ through the ball joint before I knocked the rest of the BJ housing out. Those guys were in there really tight!

Be care full that the wood under the arm won't move as if it jarred out of the way the spring could become free and hurt something.

Made 2 little jigs from scrap pipe fittings for install. One fit the perimeter of the BJ on the bottom and the other was slightly larger than the hole for the top with enough length for the threaded part of the BJ to fit inside. 4 or 5 firm whacks with a 2 lb hammer set them in place...not too bad putting them back.

As you do alot of MB work, I could see where the specialty tool could be cost efffective for you.

vstech · #7 01-23-2013, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qwerty

The W123 service manual calls for knocking old ball joints out with a hammer. No special tools or techniques required.

ahh. that is good enough for me. I've got SEVERAL that are very rust covered, I think with some cleaning, and Kroil added, I may get them out with hammering, but I also think I can rig a mount for the press to push them out.

ROLLGUY · #8 01-23-2013, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

OK,
you cut a SLIT in the 2" pipe, then hammered it back round, and welded the slit closed, and welded the washer onto one end of the piece...
right?
I'd also like to know what you did to remove the old joint.

Yes that is correct, except I used adjustable pliers to squeeze it closed. I used a press to remove the old joints, but I may try the hammer method next time (may not have access to the press).