Ball joint replacement using HF kit and home made adapter - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #1 01-23-2013, 11:24 AM

I needed to replace the ball joints on my 240 (as well as other suspension parts), and did not want to spend the big bucks required to purchase the special tool. I got a ball joint kit from Harbor Freight:

After removing the old joint and cleaning and painting the parts,
I had to make a special adapter for the press to work, as nothing provided in the kit would work.
I took a piece of 2" black pipe and cut off a slice 7/8" long. I cut out about 1/4" from the circumference, making the diameter smaller. I then welded a large washer on the top, and ground it all smooth (just for looks).

The pieces needed to do the job:

I had to tighten the press as much as I could, and then hammer the clamp to force the ball joint in. The threads are too course to press this joint in by just turning the screw:

A little tightening, a little hammering, and repeating the process a couple times, and the joint is all the way in:

The finished product:

Zacharias · #2 01-23-2013, 11:48 AM

So no nicks or tears to the boot from the install? Very nice.

How did you get the old ball joint out? Were you able to hammer it out or do you have access to a press?

Zulfiqar · #3 01-23-2013, 11:59 AM

a user called samiam said he made a similar thing for a W124 - and it worked very nicely.

Diesel911 · #4 01-24-2013, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

a user called samiam said he made a similar thing for a W124 - and it worked very nicely.

Excellent pics!

I Also made one (I started off too long and kept cutting it back, never finished it and just installed the Joint without it) and found a thread where Dormison had Made one many years previous.

Several years a go there was some argued that the Steering Knuckle could not be fit on a Hydraulic Press so that the Ball Joint could be pressed out.
That idea has now been dis-proven!

Also you can get the C-Press from Autozone on a free Rental Basis.

For those who do not Weld or want to go through the trouble to make the Tool using LEMFÖRDER/Lemfoerder/Lemforder Ball Joints W123s if you are willing to remove the Boot from the Joint you can just use a Flat Washer with the Hole enlarged so it slide over the Joint Shaft and the C-Press.
In the Pic the Washer would go where the Red Arrows Point.
I manages to do it without the Washer but it clearly would have been better with a washer there as the Press wants to slide on the conical surface of the Ball Joint.

Removing the bottom Ball Joint Boot Spring was not Hard on the Lemforders as the Boot is made of some heavy Plastic and not likely to be get poked through by the spring.
After the Joint was In the Knuckle just put some more grease in the Boot and put it back on.

BobK · #5 01-24-2013, 11:54 AM

yeah, I have generally removed the boot and used the press like in the above photo. Think I will try to make something like the adapter shown in the top pictures next time. Looks like a good tool. To remove the old ball joint, I generall use a 24 oz ball peen and then when it doesn't work a 48oz hand sledge. Trick I have found is to have the knuckle resting on something really solid. I have a solid piece of steel about 4in dia and 9 inches long-really heavy and doesn't get moved around easily by someone hammering on it. I of couse use lots of PB Blaster or the like. One time I was able to replace the ball joints on (I think) a 124 by setting the bottom of the joint (still in the arm) on a socket on the big piece of steel and pounding on arm. Joint popped out nicely. This was the one that failed as daughter backed the car into the driveway. Sometimes I just get lucky!

Walkenvol · #6 02-08-2013, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobK

One time I was able to replace the ball joints on (I think) a 124 by setting the bottom of the joint (still in the arm) on a socket on the big piece of steel and pounding on arm. Joint popped out nicely. Sometimes I just get lucky!

Can't visualize how this could happen as the BJ is pressed in from the bottom side of the arm. Wouldn't you have to pound on the BJ to remove and then pound on the arm to drive in the new BJ?

ROLLGUY · #7 01-23-2013, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zacharias

So no nicks or tears to the boot from the install? Very nice.

The ID of the tool I made fits snug around the ring that holds on the boot. It is just high enough to barely allow the end of the press to fit in the recess of the spindle without crushing the boot.

charmalu · #8 01-23-2013, 03:50 PM

Rich that is thinking outside the box, good idea with the pipe. I have one of those Chicom BJ Presses.

Funola posted a thread Redneck lower Ball Joint removal. He dug a hole and buried the upper end of the knuckle in the ground to drive out the BJ with a Hammer. This does work, I did mine for the 85, and took about 7 - 10 whacks to drive it out.

I placed a piece of 1/4" 4x4 steel in the bottom of the hole so I wasn`t driving the thing deeper into the ground. I used the flat end of the Socket (27MM) against the BJ and a smaller one (11/16) inverted inside. both impact sockets.

Red neck lower ball joint removal

Thanks to Funola for the pictures.

Charlie

ROLLGUY · #9 01-23-2013, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

esses.

Funola posted a thread Redneck lower Ball Joint removal. He dug a hole and buried the upper end of the knuckle in the ground to drive out the BJ with a Hammer. This does work, I did mine for the 85, and took about 7 - 10 whacks to drive it out.

I placed a piece of 1/4" 4x4 steel in the bottom of the hole so I wasn`t driving the thing deeper into the ground. I used the flat end of the Socket (27MM) against the BJ and a smaller one (11/16) inverted inside. both impact sockets.

Charlie

I did my 240 front end rebuild today, and tried the hammer trick for removing the old BJ's. I just held the upper end with one hand, and whacked the joint with a hammer. About 15 blows, and it came right out.

funola · #10 01-24-2013, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I did my 240 front end rebuild today, and tried the hammer trick for removing the old BJ's. I just held the upper end with one hand, and whacked the joint with a hammer. About 15 blows, and it came right out.

As I recall, the FSM has a pic of the knuckle clamped in a big vise for striking with a hammer. You did it by holding the knuckle and hammer in the air freehand? Were they small taps rather than big swings? Your BJ must not have rusted in the knuckle.

vstech · #11 01-23-2013, 12:02 PM

OK,
you cut a SLIT in the 2" pipe, then hammered it back round, and welded the slit closed, and welded the washer onto one end of the piece...
right?
I'd also like to know what you did to remove the old joint.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I took a piece of 2" black pipe and cut off a slice 7/8" long. I cut out about 1/4" from the circumference, making the diameter smaller. I then welded a large washer on the top, and ground it all smooth (just for looks).

qwerty · #12 01-23-2013, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I'd also like to know what you did to remove the old joint.

The W123 service manual calls for knocking old ball joints out with a hammer. No special tools or techniques required.

Zacharias · #13 01-23-2013, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qwerty

The W123 service manual calls for knocking old ball joints out with a hammer. No special tools or techniques required.

Works like a charm for some, others on this board say they've hammered till they couldn't feel their shoulder anymore and they couldn't get the thing to budge.

Zulfiqar · #14 01-23-2013, 12:59 PM

To get that ball joint out a serious hammer (literally like Thor's Hammer) is required.

and another hammer made of brass with a 2 ft handle to act as a drift held by another person while the first person swings the 10 lb sledge like an axe. It would take one swing to knock it out, two for rusty ones.

You can use a 4 lb sledge with more time (shoulder wear out)

vstech · #15 01-23-2013, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

To get that ball joint out a serious hammer (literally like Thor's Hammer) is required.

and another hammer made of brass with a 2 ft handle to act as a drift held by another person while the first person swings the 10 lb sledge like an axe. It would take one swing to knock it out, two for rusty ones.

You can use a 4 lb sledge with more time (shoulder wear out)

you now have me imagining Mjolnir slamming into the spindle with lightning flying...
John Henry's hammer makes more sense to me as an example...